History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

traditional protein foods. Situation of vegetable proteins.
Traditional protein foods in Korea: Soy sauce (kan jang), hot
soy paste (ko chu jang), chung kuk jang (a kind of soy paste
made by mixing natto [naap doo] with seasonings [salt, red
pepper, and garlic], and grinding then aging the mixture),
soybean sprouts (kong na mool).
Note: This is the earliest English-language document
seen (March 2009) that uses the term “ko chu jang” to refer
to Korean-style red pepper and soybean paste (miso).
Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Jan. 2012) that uses the term “chung kuk jang” to refer
to Korean-style natto.
Tables: (1) Domestic Korean production and import of
soybeans from 1982 to 1987. Domestic production rose to
250,000 tonnes from 233,000 tonnes. Imports for food uses
rose to 144,000 tonnes from 104,000 tonnes. Imports for
feed uses rose to 936,000 tonnes from 479,000 tonnes. Total
supply rose to 1,330 tonnes from 816 tonnes, up 63% in 5
years.
(2) Consumption of soybeans in traditional Korean
foods, in 1,000 metric tons, from 1982 to 1987 (1982/1987).
Figures in parentheses are for home production. Soy sauce
(kan jang) 69(50)/70(51). Soy paste (doen jang [Korean
soybean miso]) 51(41)/50(40). Hot soy paste (ko chu jang)
5(4)/5(4). Soybean curd (doo bu) 60/114. Soy milk (doo yoo)
7/14. Others: Homemade soybean curd and soy milk, chung
kuk jang, choon jang (kinds of soy paste), soybean sprouts
(kong na mool), and whole soybeans 145/141. Total 337/394,
or an increase of 19.9% in 5 years.
Note: This is the earliest English-language document
seen (March 2009) that uses the term “choon jang” to refer to
Korean-style soybean paste (miso).
(3) Domestic production and import of soybeans in
Korea (Estimated for 1987, in metric tons): Soy protein–
Textured vegetable protein (domestically made) 4,500.
Soy protein isolate (import) 1,800. Soy protein concentrate
(import) 150. Wheat protein–Textured vegetable protein
(domestic) 900. Vital gluten (domestic) 150. Gluten (wet &
dry) (import) 409. Total 7,909.
(4) Nutritional composition of soybeans and soybeans
sprouts (per 100 gm).
Figures show: (1) Manufacturing method for rice hot soy
paste (ko chu jang) (fl ow sheet). Numbers represent typical
ratio of ingredients in volume. (2) Manufacturing method for
chunk kuk jang (a type of soy paste) (fl ow sheet). Numbers
represent typical ratio of ingredients in volume.
A photo shows one of the authors. Address: Korea Food
Research Inst., P.O. Box 131, Chongryang, Seoul, South
Korea.
1297. Thornbury, B.E. 1989. Global pursuits: Salad
doughnuts and other Japanese delicacies. Washington Post.
Aug. 6. p. E1.
• Summary: She fi rst arrived in Japan 15 years ago, and
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HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 404
when she is away, her thoughts begin to dwell on all the
treats that she is missing. “But one of the greatest gustatory
challenges of Japan comes in the form of beans: the little
red [azuki] beans that are boiled, mashed, sugared and
turn up with regularity in traditional Japanese sweets; and
the soybeans that are fermented until they are slimy and
odoriferous and then served–sometimes whipped up with
raw egg, mustard and onion–and poured over hot rice. The
latter are called natto. When you say that you are a devotee
of Japanese food, you will invariably be asked, ‘But do you
like natto? Answer honestly. Many Japanese people don’t
care for natto either.’”
1298. Gaec de La Lix: United Macrobiotic Company. 1989.
Re: Work with soyfoods and seitan in France. Letter from
Ben of Gaex to Anthony Marrese, Sept. 25. 1 p. Typed, with
signature on letterhead. [Fre]
• Summary: “Since October 1985 we have been building up
our project. We are 20 adults and meanwhile three children.
Four years ago we bought a very nice farm in the beautiful
landscape of the Pre-Pyrenees 80 kilometers southwest of
Toulouse. Today we work on more than 90 hectares of land.
“At the beginning we started by establishing a common
macrobiotic kitchen. We worked mainly in the garden
and in the fi elds, trying ideas of permaculture and those
of Masanobu Fukuoka. In this behalf we were assisted by
Thomas Nelissen, who lived for some time at Fukuoka’s
farm in Japan, and Declan Kennedy, the most important
teacher of permaculture in Europe...
“This is our fourth year growing soybeans. We have a
garden of one and a half hectares, mostly for self-suffi ciency.
“With a status as ‘transformateurs’ we set up a stand on
the organic market (“marche bio”) at Toulouse, shortly after
we started to make tofu for ourselves. In time we began to
make tempeh, natto... certain types of soyaburgers, sushis
and vegetable rolls. Today we deliver our products to more
than 40 biological [organic] health stores in the surrounding
100 kilometers...
“We teach the making of tofu and seitan, amasake,
mochi and tempeh as well as giving macrobiotic cooking
classes and agricultural seminars.”
A 1989 leafl et titled “What are Tofu, Tempeh, Seitan,
Kombu?” in French (4 panels) is included with the letter. A
color slide showing fi ve people from the company waving
is taped to the letter. Address: 32260 Tachoires–Seissan,
France. Phone: 62.65.35.04.
1299. Abbey, B.W.; Phillips, R.D.; McWatters, K.H. 1989.
Preparation and uses of legumes and oilseeds in Africa. In:
E.W. Lusas, D.R. Erickson, and Wai-Kit Nip, eds. 1989.
Food Uses of Whole Oil and Protein Seeds. Champaign-
Urbana, IL: American Oil Chemists’ Society. vii + 401 p. See
p. 281-304. Chap. 18. Proceedings of the Short Course on
Food Uses of Whole Oil and Protein Seeds held at Makaha,