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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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(both line drawings <strong>and</strong> simple brush paintings) clarify <strong>and</strong><br />

enhance the text throughout.<br />

In 1987 this book was re-issued with a new title: The<br />

Heart <strong>of</strong> Zen Cuisine: A 600-year Tradition <strong>of</strong> Vegetarian<br />

Cookery. Address: 1. Abbess, Sanko-in Zen temple, Honcho<br />

3-1-36, Koganei-shi, West Tokyo (Musashi Koganei Station).<br />

942. Sheraton, Mimi. 1983. Restaurants: Japanese fare for<br />

theater nights. New York Times. Jan. 14. p. C18.<br />

• Summary: This is a review <strong>of</strong> Sushiko, a Japanese<br />

restaurant at 231 West 55th St., between Broadway <strong>and</strong><br />

Eighth Ave. in New York City. They sell: “fried half-eggplant<br />

mellowed with miso sauce, topped with sesame seeds;<br />

soybean cakes [t<strong>of</strong>u] in seaweed soup with vegetables;<br />

oshitashi [o-shitashi, o-hitashi], a salad <strong>of</strong> marinated spinach<br />

with soy sauce <strong>and</strong> crunchy fl akes <strong>of</strong> dried bonito, <strong>and</strong> natto,<br />

winy, fermented soybeans in an egg <strong>and</strong> scallion sauce.”<br />

And “zaru soba, cold buckwheat noodles with soy sauce,<br />

horseradish <strong>and</strong> scallions were refreshing.” “Broiled fi sh,<br />

meats <strong>and</strong> poultry, done teriyaki-style are stringy <strong>and</strong> less<br />

interesting...”<br />

943. Pantry Supermarkets. 1983. Buy one, get one free!<br />

(Ad). Los Angeles Times. Jan. 20. p. SG3.<br />

• Summary: The section titled “Oriental foods” states:<br />

“Hinode shirataki (yam noodles) 9 oz.–50¢. Hinode natto<br />

(steamed soybeans) 5 oz.–49¢. Hinode Japanese t<strong>of</strong>u 19 oz.–<br />

59¢.” Address: Los Angeles Co. <strong>and</strong> southern California.<br />

944. Leonard, Thom. 1983. Pioneering work with miso in<br />

America (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Feb. 12. Conducted<br />

by William Shurtleff <strong>of</strong> Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>.<br />

• Summary: In the fall <strong>of</strong> 1974, Thom Leonard made his<br />

fi rst batch <strong>of</strong> barley koji <strong>and</strong> barley miso using a recipe<br />

in Herman Aihara’s new book titled Soybean Diet. The<br />

80-pound batch <strong>of</strong> miso was aged in a soy sauce keg from<br />

Hong Kong. He then made 80-pound batches <strong>of</strong> chunky<br />

wheat miso in the fall <strong>of</strong> 1975 (he later pickled t<strong>of</strong>u in it) <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>of</strong> barley miso in early 1976. After moving to Fayetteville,<br />

Arkansas, he <strong>and</strong> Jim Hemminger made larger scale miso<br />

equipment <strong>and</strong> on 15 April 1977 packed their fi rst 35-gallon<br />

cedar vat with brown-rice miso. Soon over 1,000 lb were<br />

aging in the vats. This miso was sold to <strong>and</strong> distributed by<br />

the Ozark Cooperative Warehouse.<br />

Thom <strong>and</strong> Richard Kluding founded the fi rst Caucasianrun<br />

miso company in North America, Ohio Miso Co. in<br />

Monroeville, Ohio. They began production on 13 March<br />

1979. By Jan. 1980 Ohio Miso was making several varieties<br />

<strong>of</strong> miso: brown rice, barley (one or two year), mellow brown<br />

rice, mellow red, <strong>and</strong> black soybean; output was 2,400 lb/<br />

week.<br />

Then in the spring <strong>of</strong> 1980 Leonard <strong>and</strong> Kluding split<br />

up, largely because <strong>of</strong> interpersonal problems. In the summer<br />

<strong>of</strong> 1980 Leonard taught miso classes at the macrobiotic<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 305<br />

Spiral Inn <strong>and</strong> Moniteau Farm in Missouri. Then in late<br />

1980 he taught 2 classes on making miso, natto, t<strong>of</strong>u, <strong>and</strong><br />

tempeh at the Kushi Institute in Boston, Massachusetts,<br />

with 30-40 people per class. In 1981 <strong>and</strong> 1982 he taught 8<br />

similar classes out <strong>of</strong> his home in Boston, plus four 3-day<br />

residential workshops on the same subjects. All were sold out<br />

every time. In 1983 he plans to travel Irel<strong>and</strong> to start a miso<br />

plant in County Kilkenny. Friends <strong>of</strong> his own several old<br />

buildings. The Irish government will help pay startup costs,<br />

covering 45% <strong>of</strong> the required startup capital plus 25% <strong>of</strong> the<br />

rent for the fi rst 5 years. He hopes to start in July 1983 <strong>and</strong><br />

be producing miso by late 1983. He hopes to make 100,000<br />

to 200,000 pounds <strong>of</strong> mostly barley miso, both mellow<br />

barley <strong>and</strong> 12-24 month barley miso. Thom’s constitution is<br />

so yang that he can’t eat much miso–which is also very yang.<br />

But this week he enjoyed miso soup twice, which is more<br />

than he has had for the past year.<br />

Note: Thom <strong>and</strong> his wife went to Irel<strong>and</strong> but they never<br />

started a miso plant or commercial miso production there.<br />

Address: Brookline, Massachusetts.<br />

945. Ebine, Hideo. 1983. Re: Dipicolinic acid <strong>and</strong> retirement<br />

from the National Foods Research Institute, Japan. Letter to<br />

William Shurtleff at Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, Feb. 22. 1 p. Typed,<br />

with signature. [Eng]<br />

• Summary: Note: The Book <strong>of</strong> Miso, by Shurtleff <strong>and</strong><br />

Aoyagi (1976) states (p. 26): “In 1972, a number <strong>of</strong> Japanese<br />

scientists doing agricultural research stimulated by Dr.<br />

[Shinichiro] Akizuki’s writings discovered a substance in<br />

miso which they called Zybicolin. Produced by miso <strong>and</strong><br />

natto yeasts, it has the ability to attract, absorb, <strong>and</strong> discharge<br />

from the body radioactive elements such as strontium. The<br />

discovery received front-page coverage in all <strong>of</strong> Japan’s<br />

major newspapers.” Yet Shurtleff never cited the actual<br />

article–in part because he learned <strong>of</strong> it just as The Book <strong>of</strong><br />

Miso was about to go to press.<br />

Director Ebine has tried to locate the article mentioned<br />

above but has not been able to fi nd it–<strong>and</strong> he has never heard<br />

<strong>of</strong> it, although he has long been a miso research scientist.<br />

Zybicolin is probably “dipicolinic acid,” which is found in<br />

miso <strong>and</strong> natto, <strong>and</strong> which has a strong combining activity to<br />

minerals including radioactive minerals such as strontium.<br />

Ebine retired from the National Food Research Institute<br />

(NFRI) in March 1982 <strong>and</strong> immediately (in April 1982)<br />

began his present work as director <strong>of</strong> the Central Miso<br />

Research Institute. Address: Director, Central Miso Research<br />

Inst., Shinkawa 1-24-19, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104, Japan.<br />

946. Abiose, Sumbo. 1983. Re: Soy ogi <strong>and</strong> other soyfoods<br />

in Nigeria. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>,<br />

Feb. 23–in reply to inquiry. 1 p. Typed, with signature on<br />

letterhead.<br />

• Summary: Soy-ogi is not yet on the market as a<br />

commercial product, according to the Federal Inst. <strong>of</strong>

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