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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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e better for monogastric animals than it is for dairy. They<br />

have a research <strong>and</strong> development program for new soybean<br />

varieties. They also contract with a winter nursery in Chile<br />

for reproduction during the winter. They buy about 55,000<br />

tonnes/year <strong>of</strong> soybeans for processing into animal feed <strong>and</strong><br />

for exporting to the Pacifi c Rim. They are one <strong>of</strong> the largest<br />

companies in Quebec that buy soybeans <strong>and</strong> keep them in<br />

Quebec. The big trading houses buy soybeans then export<br />

them mostly to Rotterdam, Netherl<strong>and</strong>s, to the European<br />

crush market. Prograin keeps its Maple Glen varieties<br />

identity preserved. They screen soybeans to sort them into 3<br />

sizes. The big beans (18/64 inch <strong>and</strong> over) are sold to Japan<br />

for use as green vegetable soybeans, the medium sized beans<br />

(500 tonnes/year) are used in the Chinatown in Quebec to<br />

make t<strong>of</strong>u <strong>and</strong> soymilk, <strong>and</strong> the small soybeans are used by<br />

3 companies for making soy sprouts in Quebec. They have<br />

a natto program as well. Address: Semences Prograin Inc.<br />

(Micronisation Canada Inc.), 145 Bas Riviere Nord, St-<br />

Cesaire, Quebec, J0L 1T0, Canada. Phone: (514) 469-5744.<br />

1494. Lombardi, Joyce. 1995. Re: <strong>History</strong> <strong>of</strong> growing <strong>and</strong><br />

using soybeans in Chad. Letter to William Shurtleff at<br />

Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, Feb. 4. 3 p. Typed, with signature. [Eng]<br />

• Summary: “Thank you for your response <strong>and</strong> enthusiasm<br />

for our soya work in Chad. I am forwarding your letter to<br />

people in town who are very involved in spreading the good<br />

bean throughout the l<strong>and</strong>. One, an agronomist from Togo<br />

named Dr. Akintayo, has come to Chad for soy propag<strong>and</strong>a<br />

only. He has recently produced a book which will be <strong>of</strong><br />

great interest to you, <strong>and</strong> is also very involved in training<br />

soybean trainers at the Centre de Formation Pr<strong>of</strong>essionale<br />

d’Agriculture (CFPA), a farm extension service launched<br />

about 6 years ago by Swiss development workers.<br />

“It is in fact from a Swiss-Italian development worker<br />

that I got the idea, <strong>and</strong> later the seeds, for soybean cultivation<br />

in my village. I had enjoyed ginger-fl avored soymilk<br />

at his villa, <strong>and</strong> had heard him extoll the soil-enriching<br />

properties <strong>of</strong> the soy bean, so when people in my village<br />

began complaining about the low rates they were getting<br />

from the state’s cotton company, I asked if they had thought<br />

about planting another cash crop, like soy. I was told it had<br />

been done in the past, but people here don’t really known<br />

how to do much with soy beyond what you call dawadawa,<br />

fermented sauce. So a few weeks later, after more<br />

discussions with villagers, who told our health team that<br />

famine was their biggest health worry, the Comite de Sante<br />

de la Paix was born. <strong>Its</strong> mission–to grow, sell, <strong>and</strong> popularize<br />

the soybean in the village <strong>of</strong> Bessada, Chad.<br />

“As far as I can tell, the farthest back anyone can<br />

remember planting soy in our region <strong>of</strong> southeastern Chad<br />

is 10 years ago [i.e. in about 1985]. Most people credit the<br />

above-mentioned CFPA with introducing the crop here 6<br />

years ago. From its base in town, the CFPA also has several<br />

outposts in smaller towns (i.e. Koumra) <strong>and</strong> villages (i.e.<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 460<br />

Modjibe) near, or within a 20 km radius <strong>of</strong> Bessada. Farmers<br />

report success with the crop, especially as our soil is ‘tired’<br />

from a constant rotation <strong>of</strong> cotton, millet <strong>and</strong> peanuts. People<br />

report that one 100 kg sack fetches between 23,000–50,000<br />

cfa ($41-90) compared to half that for a sack <strong>of</strong> millet. The<br />

main buyers seems to be ONGs run by ex-pats [expatriates]<br />

or missions. Local buyers make dawa-dawa, or ndi, as it is<br />

called in the Sara language here, <strong>and</strong> several women in my<br />

village report making sojateen, or soybean c<strong>of</strong>fee. However<br />

the cost, between 150-500 cfa per kg is prohibitive, <strong>and</strong> soy<br />

is still seen as a luxury food here. For comparison, millet<br />

is about 50-100 cfa/kg, <strong>and</strong> peanuts a bit less. Nonetheless,<br />

people generally know that soy is good for the body <strong>and</strong> soil,<br />

<strong>and</strong> were very interested in our collective soybean fi eld.<br />

“So, on July 17 1994, our rather ad hoc health team–<br />

made up <strong>of</strong> four men previously elected as village health<br />

delegates <strong>and</strong> 10 ten traditional birth attendants, old women<br />

with lined, tribal-scarred faces, canes, strong wiry h<strong>and</strong>s–<br />

planted 6 kg <strong>of</strong> soybeans on a cleared ½ hectare plot, known<br />

here as a corde... Millet <strong>and</strong> cotton had been planted on our<br />

plot before, the debris cleaned away with the usual bushfi re<br />

method.<br />

“Our yield, just barely over 100 kg, was dismal.<br />

Reasons: we planted too late in the rainy season,<br />

which begins in May/June, <strong>and</strong> harvested our beans on<br />

Thanksgiving Day. Akintayo informed me that we planted<br />

the 120-day variety, which is what the CFPA has made<br />

available to folks here. Also, we only weeded twice, <strong>and</strong> very<br />

late in the game. The tribulations <strong>of</strong> collective labor as I’m<br />

sure you remember from your Peace Crops days. Third, our<br />

soil is rather s<strong>and</strong>y, <strong>and</strong> I’m told soy prefers clay <strong>and</strong> shade.<br />

Indeed, we remarked that the plants growing in the shade <strong>of</strong><br />

a karite tree produced very well while the plants in the shade<br />

<strong>of</strong> an ndil tree produced a lot <strong>of</strong> foliage but not much bean.<br />

A farmer 7 km away reported a yield <strong>of</strong> 250 kg from 4 kg <strong>of</strong><br />

seeds on a one-corde plot. He planted earlier <strong>and</strong> had better<br />

soil. His village has a water table <strong>of</strong> 23 meters, ours is 47.”<br />

“So, now, the sack <strong>of</strong> beans sits in my hut, away from<br />

mice <strong>and</strong> thieves, until we move it to a communal silo with<br />

another sack we’re buying on credit. We have siphoned<br />

out some <strong>of</strong> the beans already to stage a big village-wide<br />

soybean transformation day, January 25, run by two<br />

animatrices sent by the CFPA in nearby Koumra. The two<br />

women journeyed out on their red moped to teach the<br />

health committee members, representatives from church<br />

<strong>and</strong> women’s groups, 25 total participants, to make soy<br />

milk, cheese (t<strong>of</strong>u), fried t<strong>of</strong>u, beignets (spicy t<strong>of</strong>uburgers<br />

made with the residue [okara] whose name in Japanese I<br />

saw in your Book <strong>of</strong> T<strong>of</strong>u), cake, steamed pate with fi sh<br />

<strong>and</strong> tomatoes, sweet donuts, <strong>and</strong> cake. The consensus was:<br />

porridge (I forgot to mention it above), spicy beignets <strong>and</strong><br />

cake. Those were the big hits. People were shocked that<br />

one could bake a delicious cake there under the mango<br />

tree outside our clinic. Our tools were 3-rock fi res, wooden

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