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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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enquiries. They haven’t decided the price for home use yet.<br />

Their goals: (1) Tempeh production <strong>of</strong> 15,000 kg/month; (2)<br />

Sales <strong>of</strong> 100 million yen from July–Dec. 1983; (3) In three<br />

years their sales goal is 2,000 million yen.<br />

1011. Hesseltine, C.W. 1984. Re: Three current projects at<br />

the Fermentation Laboratory. Letter to William Shurtleff<br />

at Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, Feb. 17. 1 p. Typed, with signature on<br />

letterhead.<br />

• Summary: They are: (1) A review <strong>of</strong> what is known about<br />

natto. (2) Project on mixed culture fermentations <strong>and</strong> the<br />

starter culture business in China <strong>and</strong> Indonesia. “We have<br />

discovered that all the starter mold cultures in ragi, etc. are<br />

capable <strong>of</strong> anaerobic growth which is not the situation in<br />

nearly all other fungi.” (3) Dr. Hesseltine is preparing an<br />

hour lecture on the history <strong>of</strong> research on fermented foods in<br />

the USDA, <strong>and</strong> particularly at the Peoria laboratory. “I have<br />

been honored by being selected to give the Annual Lecture <strong>of</strong><br />

the Mycological Society <strong>of</strong> America at their annual meeting<br />

next August at Colorado State University.<br />

“Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Doyle at the Food Research Institute informs<br />

me that he is now preparing a paper on his studies on the t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

safety situation.” Address: Chief, Fermentation Lab., USDA/<br />

NRRL, Peoria, Illinois.<br />

1012. Hesseltine, C.W. 1984. Re: Research on natto. Interest<br />

in letters <strong>of</strong> Frank N. Meyer concerning fermented foods <strong>and</strong><br />

soybeans. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>,<br />

March 22. 1 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead.<br />

• Summary: “It will be some time before we get a review <strong>of</strong><br />

natto published since our emphasis just now is to do as much<br />

laboratory work as possible. Our interest currently is a study<br />

<strong>of</strong> the genetic stability <strong>of</strong> Bacillus natto which, under many<br />

conditions, runs down rapidly. Secondly, we are looking at<br />

whether B. natto is a separate species from B. subtilis.<br />

“Your comments on the letters <strong>of</strong> the USDA Plant<br />

Explorer, Frank N. Meyer, are especially interesting. Where<br />

can I see the letters that deal with fermented foods or even<br />

soybeans? Next summer I am preparing a lecture on the<br />

involvement <strong>of</strong> USDA in soybean fermented products. I<br />

knew there was a man by the name <strong>of</strong> Meyer associated with<br />

soybean exploration, but I was not aware <strong>of</strong> his description<br />

<strong>of</strong> any soybean foods. I would like to mention these letters<br />

since the fi rst scientifi c paper from USDA was a paper by<br />

Church on angkak [red fermented rice] in 1920.<br />

“Thank you also for the information on soy milk <strong>and</strong><br />

your proposed terminology <strong>and</strong> st<strong>and</strong>ard for t<strong>of</strong>u. This<br />

should be circulated to people in the industry to get their<br />

reaction <strong>and</strong> suggestions as to whether they can live with<br />

the st<strong>and</strong>ards.” Address: Chief, Fermentation Lab., USDA/<br />

NRRL, Peoria, Illinois.<br />

1013. Vansickle, Janice. 1984. Bean worth weight in gold.<br />

Windsor Star (Essex County, Ontario, Canada). March 26. p.<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 326<br />

B1-B2.<br />

• Summary: Soybeans are now Essex County’s major fi eld<br />

crop <strong>and</strong> the third largest cash crop in Ontario province<br />

(with a value <strong>of</strong> more than $203 million in 1982), but few<br />

people know what happens to the golden nuggets after they<br />

leave the farm. Most <strong>of</strong> the soybeans are crushed in Canada<br />

to make soybean oil <strong>and</strong> meal. Last week the Ontario Soya-<br />

Bean Growers’ Marketing Board held a symposium in<br />

Toronto titled “Ontario soybeans–A journey into the next<br />

century.” Sheldon Hauck, vice-president <strong>of</strong> the Soy Protein<br />

Council in the USA <strong>and</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the speakers estimated that<br />

soy protein is an ingredient in over 2,500 readily available<br />

grocery store items. Contains a nice history <strong>of</strong> the soybean<br />

in Canada. Ontario now exports soybeans to 20 countries,<br />

“including major shipments to Japan, which buys only top<br />

quality soybeans <strong>and</strong> turns them into soyamilk, soyafl our,<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u, miso–a soyapaste for soup–<strong>and</strong> natto–a fermented<br />

soybean used as an appetizer.” Speaker after speaker<br />

confi rmed a bright future for soybean exports. Moreover, all<br />

supermarkets in Windsor now carry t<strong>of</strong>u, a soya curd. Soy oil<br />

is found in margarine <strong>and</strong> cooking oils. Soy protein appears<br />

in soya sauce, simulated bacon bits, <strong>and</strong> infant formulas. The<br />

H.J. Heinz Company in Leamington has been working with<br />

the marketing board to develop a line <strong>of</strong> processed soybean<br />

products for the retail market.<br />

Ontario’s three soybean crushing plants are experiencing<br />

hard times, in part due to competition from canola oil (which<br />

enjoys subsidized freight rates); they are operating at 62% <strong>of</strong><br />

capacity <strong>and</strong> could be forced to shut down. Photos show: A<br />

pair <strong>of</strong> cupped h<strong>and</strong>s holding soybeans. Peter Epp, chairman<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Ontario Soybean Growers Marketing Board.<br />

Note: This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (March 2009) that uses the term “soyapaste” to refer to<br />

miso. Address: Star agriculture reporter.<br />

1014. Epp, Peter H. 1984. The Ontario Soya-Bean Growers’<br />

Marketing Board’s view <strong>of</strong> the next century. In: Ontario<br />

Soya-Bean Growers’ Marketing Board. ed. 1984. Ontario<br />

Soybean Symposium. Chatham, Ontario, Canada: OSGMB.<br />

319 p. See p. 302-311.<br />

• Summary: Discusses: Soybean pricing <strong>and</strong> the open tarifffree<br />

border with the USA. The Oleomargarine Act. Minimum<br />

Compensatory Rates (MCR’s) <strong>and</strong> why they have put the<br />

Ontario soybean crushing industry in jeopardy (The program,<br />

established by the Canadian Transport Commission,<br />

originally encouraged the movement <strong>of</strong> raw rapeseed from<br />

Western to Eastern Canada. The government has poured $3<br />

million annually into the program, which ends up subsidizing<br />

rapeseed oil in Ontario), the present status <strong>and</strong> potential<br />

<strong>of</strong> soybean crushing in Ontario (in 1982-83 three Ontario<br />

crushers crushed 1 million tonnes <strong>of</strong> soybeans). Market<br />

development.<br />

Tables <strong>and</strong> graphs show the following, related to<br />

Canadian edible oil production, from 1973-1983: Margarine

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