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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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USA <strong>and</strong> Europe, <strong>and</strong> concluded that tempeh alone can be<br />

used to start a food industry.<br />

“Because <strong>of</strong> this book, I received a visit from 2 people<br />

from the “Vitalizing Village Committee” <strong>of</strong> Kasuga-cho,<br />

Hyojo-gun, Hyogo-ken. They asked me to give a lecture<br />

on tempeh, for they wanted to consider whether tempeh<br />

could be used to help vitalize the village. I accepted the<br />

<strong>of</strong>fer, but realized I needed more information on the subject.<br />

So I contacted Murata sensei, pr<strong>of</strong>essor emeritus at Osaka<br />

Shiritsu Daigaku, who played a key role in organizing the<br />

fi rst international Asian Symposium on Non-Salted Soybean<br />

Fermentation in Japan. She <strong>and</strong> others at the university<br />

sent me an encouraging letter, four articles on tempeh, <strong>and</strong><br />

information on tempeh cookery from the university.<br />

“In late August 1987 I used these material to give a<br />

40 minute lecture on tempeh followed by 20 minutes <strong>of</strong><br />

questions. It was decided to have a follow-up meeting<br />

for tempeh tasting. Through Dr. Murata’s introduction I<br />

received 2 kg <strong>of</strong> free tempeh from a maker in Aichi-ken.<br />

The sampling was a big success <strong>and</strong> was written up in the<br />

newspaper in a big way. The local Hyojo prefecture high<br />

school food processing department started to experiment<br />

with tempeh, <strong>and</strong> a women’s group, the Kasuga-cho<br />

Commerce <strong>and</strong> Industry Group, began to experiment with<br />

tempeh cookery. At the end <strong>of</strong> Sept. 1987 one <strong>of</strong> the teachers<br />

at the high school succeeded in making tempeh, which made<br />

the news. Then they started to make second generation<br />

tempeh products, such as confections <strong>and</strong> breads. At their<br />

local school festival in October 1987 he presented the<br />

products <strong>and</strong> gained a good reputation.”<br />

1268. Maeda, Toshiie. 1988. Mura okoshi–Tenpe sonjuku:<br />

Tenpe zukuri ga hajimaru [Revitalizing a village–the tempeh<br />

village school: Tempeh production gets started. II.]. Toyo<br />

Shinpo (Soyfoods News). June 11. [Jap; eng+]<br />

• Summary: In Nov. 1987 there was serious discussion <strong>of</strong><br />

having an international tempeh symposium in the town <strong>of</strong><br />

Kasuga-cho. This was the idea <strong>of</strong> Pr<strong>of</strong>. Dr. Tadao Watanabe<br />

<strong>of</strong> Kyushu Univ. Though the idea eventually had to be<br />

dropped for lack <strong>of</strong> funding, the Fifth Tempeh Meeting was<br />

held in the village <strong>of</strong> Kasuga-cho on 19 Dec. 1987. Many<br />

prominent tempeh experts attended: Dr. T. Watanabe, Dr.<br />

Murata, Mr. Kanasugi, <strong>and</strong> Mr. Takato. The latter two are<br />

also involved with natto. After this meeting, some people<br />

wanted to start making tempeh in the village. Taking the<br />

initiative were Mr. Kenji Takami (a potter), Mr. Kazumasa<br />

Takami (a wood sculptor), <strong>and</strong> later another Mr. Takami (a<br />

horticulturist). They wanted to include tempeh in their lunch<br />

program. They started to build a tempeh factory on part <strong>of</strong> T.<br />

Takami’s pre-school, Meitoku Hoiku-en. Dr. Nishira Hiroshi<br />

<strong>of</strong> Kobe University, Dept. <strong>of</strong> Agric. Chemistry, advised on<br />

how to make tempeh starter. Experiments were conducted at<br />

Kyoto Tanki Daigaku (Junior College).<br />

In mid-January 1988 the group started to call itself<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 395<br />

Tenpe Sonjuku: Kenko Shokuhin Tenpe Kenkyu Sakuru<br />

(Tempeh Village School: Health Food Tempeh Study Circle).<br />

They bought the best equipment for making tempeh starter.<br />

Because <strong>of</strong> limited capital, they built the plant simply <strong>and</strong><br />

improvised. For dehulling, they used a t<strong>of</strong>u shop mill. For<br />

separating the hulls by aspiration, a tomi developed during<br />

the Edo period. For the incubation room, an inexpensive rice<br />

sprouting room. For dewatering the beans, a used washing<br />

machine centrifuge. For mixing in the tempeh starter, a<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u burger (ganmo) mixer. For incubation trays, used rice<br />

sprouting boxes. Address: Kobe Women’s Junior College,<br />

food processing.<br />

1269. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1988. Das T<strong>of</strong>u-<br />

Buch: Herstellung, Verwendung, Ernaehrungswert, Rezepte<br />

[The book <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u: Preparation, uses, nutritional value,<br />

recipes]. Munich, West Germany: Goldmann Verlag. 384 p.<br />

Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. 18 cm. [Ger]<br />

• Summary: A pocket book edition <strong>of</strong> the original 1980<br />

German edition <strong>of</strong> The Book <strong>of</strong> T<strong>of</strong>u. Contains 300 recipes.<br />

Address: Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette,<br />

California 94549.<br />

1270. Udesky, James. 1988. The book <strong>of</strong> soba. Tokyo <strong>and</strong><br />

New York: Kodansha International. 166 p. Foreword by<br />

William Shurtleff. Illust. Index. 27 cm. [50* ref]<br />

• Summary: Contents. Foreword. Introduction. I. Making<br />

soba. Homemade soba noodles. Broth. Noodle dishes.<br />

Country cooking. Groat cooking. Variations <strong>and</strong> desserts.<br />

Ingredients. II. About soba. Nutrition. Buckwheat: From<br />

seed to table. <strong>History</strong>. III. Appendices. The soba dining<br />

experience. Selected soba restaurants in Japan. Oriental,<br />

natural, <strong>and</strong> specialty food stores in the United States <strong>and</strong><br />

Canada. Bibliography.<br />

Soy-related recipes include: Cold soba noodles with<br />

natto <strong>and</strong> sesame (with “2/3 oz natto,” p. 59). “Fox Soba”<br />

(Kitsune soba, with “4 pieces thin deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u {aburaage<br />

or usu-age}, p. 63). Soba noodles in miso stew (Kenchin<br />

soba, Ibaragi prefecture, with “4-5 tablespoons miso,” p.<br />

70). Soy-Soba noodles (with “4 oz soybeans” [whole dry<br />

soybeans], p. 71). Broiled soba dumpling with miso sauce<br />

(with “3-4 tablespoons sweet white miso,” p. 81-82). Soba<br />

pasty (with “1½ oz natto, p. 85). Soy sauce is used in many<br />

recipes.<br />

The excellent “Ingredients” section (p. 91-98), gives<br />

defi nitions <strong>of</strong> several soyfoods, including miso, natto, okara,<br />

soy sauce, t<strong>of</strong>u, <strong>and</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u–thin deep-fried (abura-age, usuage).<br />

The defi nition <strong>of</strong> “natto” is especially good: “<strong>Natto</strong>:<br />

This rich soybean product with a cheeselike fl avor is still<br />

underestimated, unappreciated, <strong>and</strong> misunderstood, mainly<br />

because the sticky ‘threads’ resulting from its special<br />

fermentation process are strong <strong>and</strong> stubborn, making it<br />

pretty tricky for beginners to eat. <strong>Natto</strong> can be made easily at

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