History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

Yudôfu–Yudaufu: A food made from thinly sliced tofu,
served next to a kakejiru-type sauce [which is then poured
over the top].
The following terms are not mentioned: Agé (but
abura-agé is), Daitokuji natto, Edamame (or Eda mame or
Yeda mame), Fu (or gluten or wheat gluten), Hamanatto or
Hamana-natto, Hiya-yakko, Kinako, Koya-dofu (or Koridofu),
Okara, Soi*, Soj*, Shoyu, Tonyu, Unohana, Yakidofu,
Yuba, Zoy*.
Note 11. This is the earliest dictionary of the Japanese
language compiled by Europeans. It is also the earliest
document seen (Feb. 2001) concerning soybeans or soybean
products in connection with (but not yet in) Europe or
Portugal, and the fi rst such document to mention miso or
natto.
Note 12. This is the earliest European-language (or
Portuguese-language) document seen that mentions tofu,
which it calls Cabe, Tôfu, or Taufu.
Michael Cooper (1974, p. 222-23), in his excellent
biography of Rodrigues, states that in the preface to this
celebrated work, the “compilers promised to produce
shortly a supplement containing additional terms and words
inadvertently admitted from the dictionary. The supplement
appeared the following year, and the Bodleain Library,
Oxford, possesses a copy of both the Vocabulario and its
supplement bound together in one volume. The dictionary
runs a formidable total of 330 folios, while the supplement
extends to 71 more folios, each page carrying two columns
of text. The value of this great dictionary, containing a total
of 32,798 entries, is considerable.” “Whether or not Joao
Rodrigues had a hand in the compilation of the Vocabulario
is still a debatable point... Thus until further evidence
appears, the identity of the principal European collaborators
must remain conjectural.” Address: Nagasaki College of
Japan.
8. Yorozu kikigaki hiden [Secrets of things heard and
written]. 1650. Japan: Publisher unknown. 102 p. 2 volumes.
Japanese summary by Kawakami 1978, p. 158. [Jap]
• Summary: Within the 54 sections, 34 sections concern food
preparation, preservation, etc. Includes how to make shoyu,
natto, dried-frozen tofu (kori-dofu), and miso. Between
1650-1673, nine printings were made. Each successive
publication became more compact and more popular.
9. Nattô monogatari [The story of natto]. 1650? Japan. [Jap]*
• Summary: Contains a recipe for Natto Miso Soup (Nattô
Jiru).
Note: Recall that this Natto Jiru may well be made with
fermented black soybeans rather than itohiki natto.
10. Gôrui nichiyo ryôri-sho (or ryôri shinan-sho) [The recipe
book with mixed variety for daily use]. 1689. Nishimura
Hanbei (Edo), Nishimura Nishimura Ichiroemon and
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HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 27
Nakagawa Moheibei (Kyoto). 5 volumes. Japanese summary
by Kawakami 1978. [Jap]
• Summary: Other names for this book are Gorui Nichiyo
Ryôri Shinan-sho, Ryôri Shinan-sho, and Ryôri-sho. The
author is unknown. Fermented foods (jozo shokuhin) are
included in volume 1, and tofu in volume 3. Unlike a typical
recipe book, this one contains many descriptions of methods
and processes for making foods. The book also contains
detailed recipes for making and serving natto, plus a history
of natto.
11. Jinrin kinmô zui [Illustrated encyclopedia of life in the
Edo period]. 1690. Kyoto, Japan. Reprinted in 1990 by
Heibonsha (Tokyo); edited by Asakura, Haruhiko. [Jap]
• Summary: The following page numbers refer to the 1990
reprint edition published in Tokyo by Heibonsha. The
compiler of this remarkable work is unknown. At the bottom
of almost every page (up to p. 293) are one or two half-page
illustrations. Pages 317-31 are footnotes, followed by a
syllabary index (a e u e o, ka ki ku ke ko).
The original edition was divided into seven volumes,
including: 2. Noh drama. 3. Producers (farmers, woodcutters,
fi shermen, etc.). 4. Merchants (sellers). 5. Craftspeople. 6.
Various and other jobs. 7. Entertainers. At the end is a long
section of footnotes and annotations.
Page 121. The illustration is titled Kuzune-hori (Digging
kuzu root). Yoshino kuzu is the best known in Japan.
Page 142. Shoyu is a famous product of Sakai. Produced
in Osaka and Sakai, it is shipped to various places (no
illustration).
Page 144. The right illustration is titled Koji-shi (Koji
maker). Miso makers, manju (steamed bun) makers, and
many others use koji. The illustration shows a man carrying
four koji trays (koji-bune) fi lled with koji; he is about to put
them into the incubation room (muro, which has a rounded
top) where the koji will ferment. The text mentions a “thin
board” (usuita), which may be a second type of koji tray,
shown on the ground at right, lacking either one or both
ends. The volume of koji is measured by the standardized
size of the koji tray.
Page 144. The left illustration is titled Miso-ya (Miso
shop). It shows two men mixing or pounding something
(either koji, cooked soybeans and water before fermentation,
or miso after fermentation) in a wooden mortar (usu,
suribachi) using long wooden spatulas or pestles. They use
a wooden spatula (sekkai) as their store sign. Behind the
men to the left is a vat of fermenting miso with stones on top
for pressure. Two wooden scoops in a rectangular wooden
“boat” are used for scooping and measuring koji, cooked
soybeans, and/or salt. The text says: “Miso makes a good
seasoning and helps keep people healthy. A day cannot go by
without it.”
Page 152. The illustration, titled Kome-ya (Rice shop),
shows a man unloading a bale of rice (wrapped in rice