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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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equired” (p. 307).<br />

“Soybean milk powder will undoubtedly have a<br />

successful future in the Orient as well as in European<br />

countries <strong>and</strong> the United States. <strong>Its</strong> great advantage in<br />

comparison with cow’s milk powders is its cheapness.<br />

Soybean milk powder can be easily stored <strong>and</strong> transported...<br />

It is believed that at present some <strong>of</strong> the commercial milk<br />

powders contain an admixture <strong>of</strong> soybean milk powder” (p.<br />

307-08).<br />

“Yu P’i <strong>and</strong> Yu Ba are the Chinese <strong>and</strong> Japanese names<br />

<strong>of</strong> the pellicula formed on the surface <strong>of</strong> soybean milk<br />

when the latter is gently heated. Good Yu Ba has a bright<br />

yellow color when properly dried. The best Yu Ba is that<br />

obtained after the fi rst heating. In repeating the heating <strong>of</strong><br />

the remaining soybean milk, pellicules <strong>of</strong> gradually inferior<br />

quality <strong>and</strong> color are obtained. As much as 30 pellicules can<br />

be secured from the same portion <strong>of</strong> soybean milk. In China,<br />

a product called Fu Chu is manufactured in a way similar to<br />

Yu Ba (Footnote: See this journal, Vol. VIII, 1926, p. 179).<br />

Recently an improved method for the manufacture <strong>of</strong> Yu Ba<br />

was patented in Japan, consisting in the use <strong>of</strong> an electric fan<br />

adjusted over the surface <strong>of</strong> a kettle containing the soybean<br />

milk heated to a temperature <strong>of</strong> 90ºC.<br />

“Yu Ba has a great nutritive value, as it contains a high<br />

percentage <strong>of</strong> protein <strong>and</strong> fat,...”<br />

A table (p. 309) gives the nutritional composition <strong>of</strong> fi ve<br />

types <strong>of</strong> yuba: Common yuba, Kyoto yuba, Shimada yuba,<br />

Peking yuba, <strong>and</strong> Fu chu.<br />

Note: The values for Fu chu are based on those<br />

previously reported by Adolph. Fu chu contains much more<br />

water (53.68%) than any <strong>of</strong> the other four types <strong>of</strong> yuba;<br />

common yuba contains only 21.85% <strong>and</strong> Peking yuba only<br />

9.15%. So it is either fresh or reconstituted.<br />

“In Japan, Kyoto <strong>and</strong> Nikko are noted for Yu Ba. Yu<br />

Ba is in much dem<strong>and</strong> in China <strong>and</strong> Japan <strong>and</strong> is used in<br />

numerous ways as an essential ingredient in many very<br />

palatable dishes. <strong>Its</strong> price is high <strong>and</strong> therefore yuba is used<br />

only by the rich.”<br />

Reprinted in 1927 as part <strong>of</strong> an 86-page monograph<br />

titled “The Soybean as Human Food” (Peking, China).<br />

Address: M.D., Peking Union Medical College, China.<br />

183. Horvath, A.A. 1927. The soybean as human food.<br />

Chinese Economic Journal 1(4):415-25. April. [34 footnotes.<br />

Eng]<br />

• Summary: Contents: Soybean curd (t<strong>of</strong>u) for food:<br />

Preparation <strong>and</strong> types (“The Chinese classical name for t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

is li chi, probably meaning ‘the morning prayer’”), historical,<br />

present state (<strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u in China), chemical composition,<br />

digestibility, utilization (incl. frozen t<strong>of</strong>u <strong>and</strong> fried t<strong>of</strong>u).<br />

Fermented soybean products for food. Soy sauce: Kibiki<br />

<strong>and</strong> sobiki tamari, composition <strong>of</strong> various soy sauces. <strong>Natto</strong>.<br />

Miso. Conclusion. Bibliography.<br />

T<strong>of</strong>u–Historical (p. 416): “The manufacture <strong>of</strong> soybean<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 106<br />

curd (t<strong>of</strong>u) was started in China in 164 B.C., during the reign<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Emperor Han Wen, by a man named Liu An, the duke<br />

<strong>of</strong> Hwai Nan. Liu An was a great friend <strong>of</strong> the Buddhist<br />

monks, <strong>and</strong> it seems quite probable that he made this bean<br />

curd to provide a change or delicacy to break the monotony<br />

<strong>of</strong> the monastic ration (Adolph). T<strong>of</strong>u was introduced into<br />

Japan from Korea for the fi rst time during the Toyotomi<br />

government, <strong>and</strong> Buddhist priests <strong>and</strong> some other people<br />

used it for their daily food among others before it was<br />

generally used in Japan.<br />

T<strong>of</strong>u–Utilization (p. 418-19): “Both the composition<br />

<strong>and</strong> the digestibility <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u, therefore, prove it to be a very<br />

nutritious food material. In the Orient t<strong>of</strong>u forms a very<br />

popular <strong>and</strong> almost indispensable dietary article for the<br />

Buddhist priests, as well as the strict adherents to Buddhism,<br />

who eat no animal food [i.e., are vegans]. A common saying<br />

in some parts <strong>of</strong> China terms ‘bean milk the poor man’s milk,<br />

<strong>and</strong> bean curd the poor man’s meat.’ T<strong>of</strong>u is also called ‘the<br />

meat without the bones.’<br />

Note: This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (Dec. 2010) that contains the phrase “the meat without<br />

the bones.” Note that it refers to t<strong>of</strong>u <strong>and</strong> not to soybeans.<br />

In Indo-China the daily consumption <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u by an adult<br />

is about 3/4 <strong>of</strong> a pound. T<strong>of</strong>u in its various forms is also used<br />

very extensively by all classes <strong>of</strong> Japanese. In the interior <strong>of</strong><br />

the country where fi sh cannot be easily obtained, it is a most<br />

important source <strong>of</strong> protein.<br />

“In the Orient t<strong>of</strong>u is eaten in a fresh condition simply<br />

with a little shoyu, though it is also frequently cooked in<br />

soup. Fried t<strong>of</strong>u is also a very popular article <strong>of</strong> food. Rapeseed<br />

oil, sesame oil or soybean oil are generally used in<br />

frying.<br />

“T<strong>of</strong>u may also be prepared for preservation <strong>and</strong><br />

transportation. For this purpose fresh t<strong>of</strong>u is cut into smaller<br />

pieces <strong>and</strong> exposed to severe cold weather, to remove the<br />

water by freezing, <strong>and</strong> is then dried in an oven. As thus<br />

prepared it can be preserved for several years. When the t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

is frozen the water collects in fi ne needles <strong>of</strong> ice distributed<br />

throughout the mass. When the ice melts <strong>and</strong> the water runs<br />

out, it leaves the t<strong>of</strong>u porous <strong>and</strong> it may be easily dried. If it<br />

is not frozen, it is diffi cult to dry <strong>and</strong> the resulting material is<br />

dense <strong>and</strong> horn-like. The t<strong>of</strong>u also cooks very well if cooked<br />

in diluted soy sauce <strong>and</strong> smoked in the same manner as<br />

meat. The resulting product forms in the Orient the basis for<br />

the manufacture <strong>of</strong> various ‘artifi cial meat’ preparations.*”<br />

Footnote: * “In Germany, the Soyama factory prepared<br />

during the Great War [World War I] a meat supplement<br />

from soybeans. It was cheaper than beef, contained less<br />

carbohydrates <strong>and</strong> had a nutritive value <strong>of</strong> about 1500<br />

Calories in 1 kilo.”<br />

“In Peking, at the Kai Cheng Bean Products Company,<br />

various preparations manufactured from t<strong>of</strong>u may be<br />

purchased, such as different kinds <strong>of</strong> soybean meat, soybean<br />

sausages, etc. The company has established a restaurant in

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