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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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2. Univ. <strong>of</strong> Maryl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

771. Kawakami, Kozo; Shinoda, Osamu; Hirata, Mario;<br />

Matsushita, Sachiko; Yoshikawa, Seiji. ed. 1978. Ryôri<br />

bunken kaidai [Bibliography <strong>of</strong> ancient documents on<br />

Japanese foods, each extensively annotated]. Tokyo: Shibata<br />

Shoten. 298 p. Illust. 22 cm. Discoveries in Food Culture<br />

series, Vol. 5. [304 ref. Jap]<br />

• Summary: Part I <strong>of</strong> this work lists 200 old Japanese food/<br />

cookery books, each published prior to 1868, in alphabetical<br />

order. This book is exceptionally well researched <strong>and</strong><br />

valuable. The author was born in 1928. The name <strong>of</strong> each<br />

is written in Chinese characters (kanji) with furigana<br />

attached to show how to pronounce them. (Unfortunately,<br />

no pronunciation help is given with authors’ names.) The<br />

publication date <strong>and</strong> a 1-page summary <strong>of</strong> the contents is<br />

given. These 200 books were selected from well over 500<br />

c<strong>and</strong>idates based on 5 rules: They are not about medicinal<br />

uses, crop cultivation, or industrial food production<br />

(including oil extraction, fl our milling, etc.); in the fi elds <strong>of</strong><br />

confectionery <strong>and</strong> pickles, only the most famous books are<br />

included; some exceptions to the fi rst four rules were made<br />

where inclusion was deemed <strong>of</strong> special interest to the reader.<br />

Part II is 104 related books about food <strong>and</strong> cooking,<br />

listed chronologically.<br />

Appendix 1 explains how to do research using old<br />

documents. Appendix 2 is a chronology <strong>of</strong> the 200 books<br />

from the year 1200 to the present. Appendix 3 is an index to<br />

the books in Part II, listed alphabetically by title. Note: There<br />

is no index in this book that allows one to see on which<br />

pages or in which books a certain food (such as natto) is<br />

mentioned. Address: Nôgaku Hakase, Shusai, Ryori Genten<br />

Kaidai, Japan.<br />

772. Smith, Allan K.; Circle, S.J. eds. 1978. Soybeans:<br />

Chemistry <strong>and</strong> technology. Vol. 1. Proteins. Revised.<br />

Westport, Connecticut: AVI Publishing Co. xiii + 470 p.<br />

Illust. Index. 24 cm. [500+ ref]<br />

• Summary: This revised edition contains relatively few,<br />

unimportant changes from the original, classic 1972 edition.<br />

The following changes have been made: Addition <strong>of</strong> a 7-line<br />

preface to the “revised second printing” dated 4 Oct. 1977,<br />

updating <strong>of</strong> a graph <strong>of</strong> U.S. soybean production (p. 1).<br />

Updating (to 1976) <strong>of</strong> a table on U.S. <strong>and</strong> world production<br />

<strong>of</strong> important oilseeds (soybeans, cottonseeds, peanuts,<br />

sunfl ower, rape, sesame) (p. 2). Minor textual changes on<br />

pages 18-19. Addition <strong>of</strong> a table showing distribution <strong>of</strong><br />

the 3 leading soybean varieties in 14 major states <strong>and</strong> the<br />

percentage <strong>of</strong> acreage harvested for each variety in 1976<br />

(e.g., in Illinois, Williams accounted for 25.1% <strong>of</strong> harvested<br />

acreage, Amsoy 17.3%, <strong>and</strong> Wayne 12.8%). And updating <strong>of</strong><br />

a table on U.S. soybean production by state showing acreage<br />

harvested, yield per acre, <strong>and</strong> production for 1974, 1975, <strong>and</strong><br />

1976 (p. 32).<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 257<br />

The foreword, chapter titles, <strong>and</strong> index have not been<br />

changed at all. Note: Vol. 2 was never published. Address:<br />

1. Oilseeds protein consultant, Hot Springs, Arkansas; 2.<br />

Oilseed protein consultant, Protein Technology, Richardson,<br />

Texas.<br />

773. Yanwar, Afrida Nazir; Saparsih, Sri Budhi. comps.<br />

1978. Selected abstracts <strong>of</strong> traditional fermented food.<br />

Jakarta, Indonesia: National Scientifi c Documentation<br />

<strong>Center</strong>, Indonesian Institute <strong>of</strong> Sciences (PDIN–LIPI). iv +<br />

470 p. Author index. 29 cm. [506 soy ref]<br />

• Summary: These are abstracts <strong>of</strong> documents published<br />

from 1910 to 1976 on traditional fermented food, particularly<br />

<strong>of</strong> food prepared <strong>and</strong> consumed in Southeast Asia <strong>and</strong> the<br />

Far East. Each chapter is divided into 6 sections: Method <strong>of</strong><br />

preparation, microorganisms, fermentation studies, nutritive<br />

values, other infl uence in the foodstuff, storage. Within each<br />

section, the references are listed alphabetically by author.<br />

The source <strong>of</strong> most <strong>of</strong> the references is Chemical Abstracts,<br />

to which an exact citation is usually given.<br />

Contents: Preface. Introduction. 1. Fermented rice<br />

(incl. tape ketan [tapeh], sake, awamori). 2. Fermented soy<br />

beans: Soysauce (p. 173-294; 350 references), tempe (p.<br />

294-307; 43 refs), natto (p. 307-312; 13 refs), miso (p. 312-<br />

343; 100 refs). 3. Fermented coconut press cake (bongkrek;<br />

p. 345-47). 4. Sauerkraut. 5. Fermented fi sh. 6. Vinegar. 7.<br />

Fermented cassava (tape / tapeh). Author index (p. 459-70).<br />

Financial assistance was received from the National<br />

Institute <strong>of</strong> Chemistry, the Indonesian Institute <strong>of</strong> Sciences,<br />

the Indonesian Protein Project in the framework <strong>of</strong> ASEAN–<br />

Australian Economic Co-operation. Address: Indonesia.<br />

774. Birnbaum, Alfred. 1978? Re: Yuki-wari natto. Letter<br />

to William Shurtleff at New-Age Foods Study <strong>Center</strong>,<br />

Lafayette, California, July 12. 1 p. Undated. H<strong>and</strong>written in<br />

pencil.<br />

• Summary: “A nattô resembling miso, featuring the nebari<br />

[stickiness] <strong>of</strong> nattô <strong>and</strong> the sweetness <strong>of</strong> koji. A tw<strong>of</strong>ermentation<br />

product.<br />

“Process: Regular nattô is minced fi nely with koji, shoyu<br />

<strong>and</strong> (kombu) dashi <strong>and</strong> fermented at 30º to 33ºC for 30-40<br />

days.”<br />

Note: This top portion <strong>of</strong> page 2 <strong>of</strong> some letter from<br />

Alfred has been separated from the body <strong>of</strong> the letter; hence<br />

the lack <strong>of</strong> date <strong>and</strong> address.<br />

775. Birnbaum, Alfred. 1979. Re: Comments on new<br />

condensed edition <strong>of</strong> The Book <strong>of</strong> T<strong>of</strong>u. Letter to William<br />

Shurtleff at New-Age Foods Study <strong>Center</strong>, Jan. 26. 1 p.<br />

H<strong>and</strong>written (in pencil) <strong>and</strong> signed.<br />

• Summary: He received the condensed version from<br />

Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Aoyagi. “I think that the compact format<br />

should reach a large readership. Excellent work!”<br />

“I particularly liked your having created a separate

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