History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

several months. However, commercial doenjang is now
produced as a sole product without separation of ganjang,
and other cereals are often added to soybeans as a substrate
[as is also the case for Japanese miso]. Modern meju is
prepared on an industrial scale by inoculating” the substrate
with Aspergillus oryzae “and Bacillus rather than depending
on natural contaminant fl ora.”
Chonggukjang is another type of fermented soybean
paste; in Korea it is typically consumed as the basis of a
soup and takes only a few days to ferment. The fermented
soybeans are typically mixed with salt, garlic, ginger, and red
chili pepper before being used as a soup base. Chonggukjang
was fi rst mentioned in the Sanlim Gyongje, by Hong Man-
Sun, an agricultural encyclopedia published in 1715. Note: It
could be called Korean natto.
Ganjang is Korean soy sauce. Traditionally it was made
by separation of the liquid from doenjang [From Google
Books Preview].
1857. Mao, A.A.; Odyuo, N. 2007. Traditional fermented
foods of the Naga tribes of Northeastern India. Indian J. of
Traditional Knowledge (New Delhi) 6(1):37-41. [21 ref]*
• Summary: Aakhone, also called axone, is an indigenous
sticky fermented soyfood of the Sema Naga, in the Indian
northeast state of Nagaland. It is similar to kinema.
Note: This is the earliest document seen (Jan. 2012) that
uses the word “axone” to refer to a fermented soyfood from
Nagaland and a close relative of Japanese natto.
1858. Robinson, Martin; Bartlett, Ray; Whyte, Rob. 2007.
Korea. 7th ed. Footscray, Victoria, Australia; London: Lonely
Planet. 440 p. Illust. (some color). Maps (some color). Index.
20 cm. [30+ ref]
• Summary: This is a travel guidebook to Korea, including
North Korea (p. 344+). Many maps. Page 23: The Korean
word doenjang means “soybean paste;” it is used as a base
for soups.
Page 62: In Korea, chili pepper usually takes the form
of gochujang (red pepper paste). It is a popular topping for
Bibampap
Page 71-72: Soups and stews–haejangguk = bean sprout
soup. doenjang jjigae = soybean paste stew. dubu jjigae =
tofu stew. sundubu jjigae = spicy uncurdled tofu stew [sic,
tofu / soymilk curds in spicy stew]. sundubu = uncurdled
tofu [sic, soymilk curds]
Page 177: “Tofu lovers and vegetarians will want to
head for ‘Tofu Village,’ a cluster of restaurants that feature
tofu.”
Page 180: The Korean word for soymilk curds (or unset
tofu) is sundubu.
Page 181: In Gang-Won-Do a restaurant named
Yujeong Cheonggukjang serves a superb spicy soup that
resembles miso soup but is actually made with Korean natto
(cheonggukjang).
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 566
Note: This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Jan. 2012) that uses the word “cheonggukjang” to refer
to Korean-style natto.
Page 222. The Korean word for tofu is dubu.
The interesting section on North Korea starts on page
344.
Page 389: In the box titled “Unusual festivals” [in North
Korea]–Chodang’s Uncurdled Tofu Festival; exciting only
for vegetarians.
Also: Tofu (dubu) is mentioned on pages 63-66, 71-72,
90, 125, 151, 170, 174, 175, 177, 180, 185, 192, 222, 283,
288, 321, 326, 389.
1859. Tamang, Jyoti Pradash; Thapa, N.; Rai, B.; Thapa,
S.; Yonzan, H.; Dewan, S.; Tamang, B.; Sharma, R.M.; Rai,
A.K.; Chettri, R.; Mukhopadhyay, B.; Pal, B. 2007. Food
consumption in Sikkim with special reference to traditional
fermented foods and beverages: A micro-level survey. J. of
Hill Research (Sikkim) 20(1S):1-37. Supplement issue. [22
ref]
• Summary: Table A, “Ethnic fermented foods of Sikkim”
(p. 5) includes (as its fi rst entry): Product: Kinema.
Substrate: Soybean. Nature and use: Sticky soybeans; curry.
Major consumer: non-Brahman Nepalis. Reference: Tamang
(2001).
Consumption patterns of fermented foods (p. 11): In
Sikkim, food consumption patterns show that 11.7% of rural
people are vegetarians and 88.3% are non-vegetarians. Rice
is the most staple food in the diet of Sikkim, with average
per capita consumption of 2.6 kg/week–compared with 2.3
gm/week of kinema. Kinema, which is a good source of
protein, is typically consumed 2-4 times per week. About
12.6% of the total foods consumed in Sikkim are fermented.
Table 8, “Distribution of households indicating source of
acquiring fermented products by ethnic group” (p. 19) states
for kinema–Nepali: 57.5% use homemade kinema, 31.3%
use kinema purchased at the market, and 11.3% use both.
Bhutia: 14.7% use homemade kinema, 67.7% use kinema
purchased at the market, and 17.7% use both. Lepcha: 77.5%
use homemade kinema, 17.5% use kinema purchased at the
market, and 5.0% use both.
Table 9, “Average annual production (in grams) of
fermented foods per household per year by ethnic groups.” N
= number of households reporting. SD = standard deviation.
Kinema–Nepali: 7,955.6 gm. N = 55. SD = 16,073.5. Bhutia:
3,081.8 gm. N = 11. SD = 3,862.3. Lepcha: 3,751.5 gm. N =
33. SD = 6,362.4. Total: 6,012.7 gm. N = 99. SD = 12,724.2.
Table 10. “Average annual production (in grams) of
fermented foods per household per year by districts.” In
descending order: East 16,095. South: 4,498.5. North:
4,492.3. West 1,755.6.
Table 11. “Per capita consumption (gm/day) of
fermented foods per day by ethnic groups” (Mean ± SD):
Nepali 3.4 gm ± 6.9 gm. N = 80. Bhutia 1.1 gm ± 1.7 gm. N