History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

soya casein or tofu, I infected 50 grm. of fresh tofu with a
small dose of pulverised Swiss cheese, and added ten per
cent of common salt to the mixture, pressed it in cloth,
and allowed it to stand in a moist beeker glass for several
months. The product resembled, only to a limited extent, the
cheese from milk, but further experiments with the addition
of small quantities of milk sugar are intended.”
Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Oct. 2003) that contains the term “soya bean milk.”
Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Oct. 2003) that contains the word “milky” in
connection with soymilk, or that uses the term “milky liquid”
to refer to soymilk. It is the second earliest English-language
document seen (Oct. 2003) that mentions soymilk, and the
earliest that mentions it in connection with Japan. However
there is no suggestion that Japanese consume soymilk as a
beverage.
Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (March 2009) that uses the term “vegetable cheese” to
refer to miso.
Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word “kori-dofu” to refer
to dried-frozen tofu. Address: Nôgaku-shi [Prof. of
Agriculture], Japan.
38. Yabe, Kikuji. 1895. Un fromage végétal, le “natto” [A
vegetable cheese, natto]. Annales Agronomiques 21:494.
[Fre]*
39. Agricultural Society of Japan (Dai Nihon Nokai). 1895.
Useful plants of Japan: Described and illustrated. Vol. 1.
Tokyo: Agricultural Society of Japan. 233 p. See p. 5-6. 22
cm. [Eng]
• Summary: Discusses fi ve varieties of Glycine hispida
(p. 5-6) including: 21. Black soy-bean, Jap. Kuro-mame.
“The beans have black skin. They are eaten either boiled or
parched and also used to make miso (a kind of sauce with
solid consistency), cakes, and natto (a cooked beans eaten as
relish to rice).”
Note 1. The writer fails to mention that both miso and
natto are fermented foods.
Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Jan. 2012) stating that natto is eaten with rice, or as a
relish to rice.
22. White soy bean, Jap. Shiro-mame. Similar to No.
21 but the beans have yellowish-white skins. “Numerous
varieties as to size, form, or duration of growth occur, and all
are eaten either boiled or parched. Many important services
are due to this bean. They are used to make malt [koji],
miso (a kind of sauce), shôyû (bean sauce), and yuba (a
kind of food). The mamenoko (bean fl our) [probably roasted
soy fl our or kinako] is made of the beans and is eaten with
dango, etc. It yields a dye called Mame-no-go. Oil is also
pressed out from these beans. They are used in many other
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 39
different ways.”
Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Dec. 2005) that uses the word mamenoko to refer to
roasted soy fl our.
23. Green bean, Jap. Ao-mame. Similar to No. 21 but
with larger seeds of greenish color. “One variety with green
colour both of the skin and albumen called Konrinzai occurs,
and is used to make Aomame-no-ko (green bean fl our).
24. Jap. Goishi-mame. The seed of this variety is fl at and
black. Eaten boiled.
25. Gankui-mame. “Closely allied to the preceding.
The beans are larger and thinner in the middle, and eaten
principally boiled.”
Also discusses: Job’s tears (Coix lachryma, Jap.
Tômugi, Hatomugi, p. 5. The grain is pounded in a mortar,
cleaned, and “consumed as meal and mochi. An infusion of
the parched and ground grains is used instead of tea, and is
called Kosen).” Five varieties of adsuki beans (Phaseolus
radiatus, p. 7-8).
Pea-nut (Arachis hypogæa, Jap. Tôjin-mame,
Nankin-mame, p. 9. “They are eaten parched or used in
confectionery, or to extract oil. A variety with larger nuts
about 3 times bigger was introduced from America in
1873”).
Kudzu (Pueraria thunbergiana, Jap. Kudsu, Makudsu,
p. 69-70, 92. “The largest roots are about 3-4 ft. [long] and
about the thickness of a man’s arm. In winter they are taken,
and an excellent starch is prepared from them. It is used for
food or paste. The vine is used to make baskets, and its fi bre
is taken for cloth. The leaves are used to feed cattle”).
Sesame (Sesamum indicum, Jap. Goma, p. 84. “There
are three varieties, black, white, and brown colored. The
latter variety is the best to take oil. The oil is principally used
for dressing food. The grilled seeds are used to add to cakes,
salads, etc.”). Address: Tameike 1, Akasaka, Japan.
40. Yabe, Kikuji. 1895. Ueber einen vegetabilischen
Kaese aus Sojabohnen [On a vegetable cheese made from
soybeans]. Landwirtschaftlichen Versuchs-Stationen 45:438-
39. [1 ref. Ger]
• Summary: This is a German summary of the Englishlanguage
article by Yabe titled “On the vegetable cheese,
natto,” which was published in 1894 in Japan in the Bulletin
of the College of Agric., Tokyo Imperial Univ. 2(2):68-
72. “The Japanese prepare from soybeans (Sojabohnen),
which are rather rich in proteins, two types of cheese: miso
and natto. Miso, made with koji, is consumed in greater
quantities than natto (Natto-Käse; literally ‘natto cheese’).”
Note: This is the earliest German-language document
seen (Jan. 2012) that uses the term vegetabilischen Kaese to
refer to natto. Address: Japan.
41. Trimble, Henry. 1896. Recent literature on the soja bean.
American J. of Pharmacy 68:309-13. June. [12 ref]