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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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<strong>of</strong> Japan (Nippon Sakumotsu Gakkai Kiji) 48(2):291-302<br />

(1979). Address: 1-2. National Food Research Inst., Ministry<br />

<strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Forestry <strong>and</strong> Fisheries (Shokuhin Sogo<br />

Kenkyujo), Kannon-dai 2-1-2, Yatabe-machi, Tsukuba-gun,<br />

Ibaraki-ken 305, Japan; 3-4. Hokkaido Prefectural Central<br />

Agric. Exp. Station, Naganuma, Hokkaido 069-13.<br />

795. Ko, Tokubo. 1979. Kankoku no hakkô shokuhin<br />

[Korean fermented foods]. Hakko to Kogyo (Fermentation<br />

<strong>and</strong> Industry) 37(3):202-11. [75* ref. Jap]<br />

• Summary: Shoyu <strong>and</strong> varieties <strong>of</strong> miso: 1. Historical<br />

background: The major foods used in Korea that contain<br />

soy are soy sauce (kan jang), soybean miso (doen jang), <strong>and</strong><br />

red-pepper miso (kochu jang). Also there are jonkutsu jang,<br />

tamusu jang (makujang) <strong>and</strong> jupu jang. The suffi x jang is the<br />

same as the Chinese chiang <strong>and</strong> the Japanese hishio, meaning<br />

mash. The origins <strong>of</strong> the varieties <strong>of</strong> shoyu <strong>and</strong> miso are not<br />

clear. But there was a character, tojang, in “Ronko” which<br />

was written by Oju? <strong>of</strong> the Gokan period. Also, there are<br />

some references to jang in the Analects <strong>of</strong> Confucius (Lun<br />

yu; Jap. Rongo). They indicate that jang existed years before<br />

Christ. In the “Kaitoyakushi?” there is a quotation from<br />

“Shintosho?” (618-907) that “shi” (fermented black soybeans<br />

or misodama) was a well known product <strong>of</strong> Bokkai (north<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Yellow Sea) in those days (Sakueki). It is thought that<br />

jang fi rst appeared in Manchuria (Manshu was called Kokuri<br />

in those days) where soybeans were originally grown.<br />

Soybeans later spread to China <strong>and</strong> Japan.<br />

In Korea the oldest record <strong>of</strong> any variety <strong>of</strong> jang was<br />

found in Sangokushiki (683) as “shôshi?”. This indicates<br />

that people were already making shoyu <strong>and</strong> miso quite early<br />

on. In the Ch’i-min yao-shu (AD 530-550) a method <strong>of</strong> shi<br />

(or kaki) making was recorded. We guess that shi was the<br />

predecessor to today’s meju (= misodama). The classic book<br />

Kyukosetsuyo? that was compiled in 1554 (Richo? period–<br />

Meisoo 9) is the oldest book that contains the techniques<br />

for making the Korean varieties <strong>of</strong> jang. About 8 different<br />

methods <strong>of</strong> production were recorded, amongst them the<br />

sink gan (chinjangho) <strong>and</strong> zojangho methods. In those days,<br />

meju (= misodama) was called misho. It is written that they<br />

steamed the soybeans, roasted <strong>and</strong> ground the wheat, then<br />

mixed the soy <strong>and</strong> the wheat in a 2:1 ratio. From this they<br />

made koji <strong>and</strong> dried it in the sun. That method was very<br />

similar to the koji-making method used in Japan. In Japan<br />

it was called kokori, hishio, or misho. Later, shoyu became<br />

known as jang? Miso became massho? <strong>and</strong> then returned<br />

to being called misho. Address: Presently: Tokyo Daigaku<br />

Biseibutsu Kenkyusho #3 Kenkyubu. Formerly: Seoul, South<br />

Korea. Tokoku Daigaku Shokuhin Kogakubu.<br />

796. Kobayashi, S.; Honda, T.; Hayashi, U. 1979. Hydrolysis<br />

<strong>of</strong> food proteins by proteases <strong>of</strong> B. natto. <strong>Natto</strong> Kagaku<br />

Kenkyu Kaishi (J. <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Natto</strong> Research Society) 3:21-29.<br />

[Eng]*<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 263<br />

797. Komatsuzaki, T.; Ohkuro, I.; Kuriyama, S.; Kawashima,<br />

M. 1979. [Lipolytic activity <strong>of</strong> natto bacilli in the presence<br />

<strong>of</strong> sugar or casein, <strong>and</strong> the infl uence <strong>of</strong> salt on this activity].<br />

Igaku to Seibutsugaku (Medicine <strong>and</strong> Biology) 99:211-16.<br />

[Jap]*<br />

798. Komatsuzaki, T.; Ohkuro, I.; Kawashima, M.;<br />

Kuriyama, S. 1979. [Lipolytic activity <strong>of</strong> natto bacilli in the<br />

presence <strong>of</strong> sugar or casein, <strong>and</strong> the infl uence <strong>of</strong> salt on this<br />

activity]. Igaku to Seibutsugaku (Medicine <strong>and</strong> Biology)<br />

101:219-22. [Jap]*<br />

799. Komatsuzaki, T.; Ohkuro, I.; Kawashima, M.;<br />

Kuriyama, S. 1979. [The difference in unspecifi cally<br />

immunizing effects among strains <strong>of</strong> natto bacilli]. Igaku to<br />

Seibutsugaku (Medicine <strong>and</strong> Biology) 99:343-45. [Jap]*<br />

800. Kubo, S.; Takagi, C.; Kedo, S.; Yamamoto, T.;<br />

Hayashi, U. 1979. [Studies on Bacillus natto. II. Continuous<br />

cultivation <strong>of</strong> B. natto on various agar media]. <strong>Natto</strong> Kagaku<br />

Kenkyu Kaishi (J. <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Natto</strong> Research Society) 3:57-66.<br />

[Jap]*<br />

Address: Japan.<br />

801. Sato, T.; Aoki, M.; Suzuki, S.; Numata, K.; Miyao,<br />

S. 1979. [On the shelf life <strong>of</strong> natto]. <strong>Natto</strong> Kagaku Kenkyu<br />

Kaishi (J. <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Natto</strong> Research Society) 3:13-20. [Jap]*<br />

802. Tanegashima, C.; Ishiyaki, Y. 1979. [Studies on the<br />

volatile fl avor components <strong>of</strong> commercial natto]. Mukogawa<br />

Joshi Daigaku Kiyo. Shokumotsu-hen (Bulletin <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Mukogawa Women’s College, Food Science Series) 27:37-38.<br />

(Chem. Abst. 96:141377. 1982). [Jap]*<br />

803. Tsurumaki, Y.; Sano, M.; Hayashi, U. 1979. [Proteases<br />

<strong>of</strong> natto]. <strong>Natto</strong> Kagaku Kenkyu Kaishi (J. <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Natto</strong><br />

Research Society) 3:67-72. (Chem. Abst. 93:44103k). [Jap]*<br />

Address: Japan.<br />

804. Aihara, Cornellia. 1979. The calendar cookbook.<br />

George Ohsawa Macrobiotic Foundation, 1544 Oak St.,<br />

Oroville, CA 95965. 253 p. [unnumbered]. Illust. by Nan<br />

Schleiger. Index. 17 x 24 cm.<br />

• Summary: This macrobiotic cookbook is designed for<br />

cooking with the seasons. Breakfast <strong>and</strong> dinner menus<br />

are given for every day <strong>of</strong> the year. A glossary gives brief<br />

descriptions <strong>of</strong> the Japanese foods listed in the recipes.<br />

For example: “Tamari: traditional soy sauce (shoyu) made<br />

without chemicals. T<strong>of</strong>u: curdled soy milk. Tekka: condiment<br />

<strong>of</strong> miso <strong>and</strong> vegetables cooked a long time.” All recipes are<br />

numbered.<br />

Soy-related recipes include: 2d. Baked mochi with<br />

kinako. 4. Kombu, age, albi nishime. 5. Black bean nishime

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