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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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“Wash the soybean <strong>and</strong> boil it (fl uffy boiled until s<strong>of</strong>t).<br />

After it is fully cooked, strain the water <strong>and</strong> mix it with corn<br />

dust (maize fl our) <strong>and</strong> put in an airtight bag. Keep it in a<br />

place with high temperature for at least 3 days. Some prefer<br />

to eat it as soon as it is fermented, some prefer to dry it (in<br />

the sun) <strong>and</strong> keep it for over a year...”<br />

“Method <strong>of</strong> cooking: For cooking ingredients: Soak in<br />

hot water (if dried) for one hour before cooking.<br />

“Cooking ingredients: Oil, onions, tomato <strong>and</strong> salt<br />

(to taste). Heat cooking oil <strong>and</strong> fry onions; add a pinch <strong>of</strong><br />

turmeric <strong>and</strong> the kinema <strong>and</strong> cook until brown; then add<br />

tomatoes <strong>and</strong> a little bit <strong>of</strong> water (some prefer to take it as a<br />

soup by adding a little more water to the above ingredients)<br />

<strong>and</strong> salt to taste. Continue cooking for about 10-15 minutes.<br />

Then it should be ready to be served.<br />

“This information was prepared by Manju Shrestha,<br />

February 1984.” Address: Project Supervisor, IADS,<br />

International Agricultural Development Service, P.O. Box<br />

1336, Kathm<strong>and</strong>u, Nepal. Phone: 21425. Cable: Iadservis,<br />

Kathm<strong>and</strong>u.<br />

1025. Sterngold, James. 1984. On foot in Hokkaido: Much<br />

<strong>of</strong> the northern isle is parkl<strong>and</strong>. New York Times. April 29. p.<br />

XX9, XX32.<br />

• Summary: The writer stays at a spa near Mount Asahi.<br />

The st<strong>and</strong>ard Japanese breakfast begins with a bowl <strong>of</strong> rice<br />

<strong>and</strong> salty broiled fi sh, generally salmon. “Then there is<br />

natto. This is a gooey, though plain tasting, concoction <strong>of</strong><br />

fermented soybeans said to be packed with nutrition, but a<br />

little much for some sensibilities fi rst thing in the morning.<br />

Even many Japanese wrinkle their noses at the mention <strong>of</strong><br />

natto the way many Americans do the fi rst time they hear <strong>of</strong><br />

eating raw fi sh. Also common are raw egg <strong>and</strong> nori [pressed<br />

seaweed], which are eaten with the rice.”<br />

1026. Jacobs, Susan. 1984. The Cultured Club. Fantastic<br />

fermented foods. Vegetarian Times. April. p. 44-45, 47-48.<br />

• Summary: Includes a brief introduction to tempeh,<br />

fermented t<strong>of</strong>u, miso, natto, <strong>and</strong> tamari soy sauce.<br />

1027. Leviton, Richard. 1984. Japanese soyfoods. In:<br />

Camille Cusumano. 1984. T<strong>of</strong>u, Tempeh, & Other Soy<br />

Delights. Emmaus, Pennsylvania: Rodale Press. x + 261 p.<br />

See p. 144-49.<br />

• Summary: Contents: Brief biography <strong>of</strong> Leviton <strong>and</strong><br />

introduction. Deep-fried <strong>and</strong> grilled t<strong>of</strong>u treats: age,<br />

atsuage, ganmo, yaki-d<strong>of</strong>u, doufu-gan. T<strong>of</strong>u haute cuisine<br />

(at 280-year-old Sasa-no-Yuki in Tokyo, dried-frozen t<strong>of</strong>u,<br />

wine-fermented t<strong>of</strong>u). Delights <strong>of</strong> soymilk <strong>and</strong> yuba (incl.<br />

Yuba Han). <strong>Natto</strong>, miso, <strong>and</strong> savory soy condiments (incl.<br />

Hamanatto or “savory fermented black soybeans,” thua nao<br />

from Thail<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> natto miso). And still more: Cooked<br />

soybeans with wakame, “soy sprouts packed in a sausagelike<br />

clear tube, green soybeans in the pods, kinako powder (a<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 330<br />

fl our made from dry roasted soybeans, used as a basis for<br />

confections or nut butters), freeze-dried instant miso soup<br />

powder, instant silken t<strong>of</strong>u powder (just add water <strong>and</strong> stir),<br />

<strong>and</strong> dry meat sauces for t<strong>of</strong>u.” Address: 100 Heath Rd.,<br />

Colrain, Massachusetts 01340. Phone: 413-624-5591.<br />

1028. Singh, Minu. 1984. Kinema <strong>and</strong> other soyfoods in<br />

Nepal (Interview). Conducted by William Shurtleff <strong>of</strong><br />

Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, May 25. 2 p. transcript.<br />

• Summary: The name <strong>of</strong> this fermented soyfood is kinema<br />

or kinima (not kenima); it is usually pronounced kee-NAYmuh.<br />

The food is most widely consumed in Darjeeling<br />

which is now in West Bengal, India (but was formerly part<br />

<strong>of</strong> Nepal) <strong>and</strong> in southern Nepal. Typical Nepalis who speak<br />

Hindi do not know this food, nor is it known in Kathm<strong>and</strong>u.<br />

It is used mostly by non-Brahmins <strong>and</strong> it has a very strong<br />

fl avor <strong>and</strong> smell; she did not like it. She knows how to make<br />

kinema because a friend used to make it at her home. Boil<br />

soybeans for about 2 hours (in Nepal mostly black soybeans,<br />

<strong>and</strong> in Darjeeling some yellow soybeans are used). Pour the<br />

cooked soybeans into banana leaves, cover very tightly, put<br />

into a paper bag, then put in a warm place for 5 days. No<br />

inoculant was used <strong>and</strong> at the end <strong>of</strong> the 5 days she recalls<br />

that it “smelled terrible.” Wash the kinema then cook it with<br />

tomatoes, ginger <strong>and</strong> garlic. After cooking it did not smell so<br />

bad.<br />

Note: This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2010)<br />

that uses the word “kinima” to refer to kinema, a fermented<br />

soyfood from Nepal <strong>and</strong> a close relative <strong>of</strong> Nepalese kinema<br />

<strong>and</strong> Japanese natto.<br />

In Nepal, green vegetable soybeans are called hariyo<br />

bhatmas (hariyo means “green” <strong>and</strong> bhatmas is the Nepali<br />

word for soybean). They are consumed all over Nepal, boiled<br />

in the pods, then the green beans are removed <strong>and</strong> eaten as<br />

is with a little salt as a snack; sometimes they are seasoned<br />

with black pepper or hot chili, <strong>and</strong> sometimes they are used<br />

in a curry with potatoes. Whole dry soybeans are soaked<br />

overnight then cooked with potatoes.<br />

She worked with the Peace Corps for 9 years as a<br />

language coordinator. In about 1980 she worked on a project<br />

with the Peace Corps making roasted soy fl our at a Nepal<br />

maternity home. They called it Poshilo Bito (“Nutrition<br />

Flour”). They would mix dry soybeans with some corn,<br />

barley <strong>and</strong> wheat. Roast the mixture, grind it, put it in<br />

packets, <strong>and</strong> distribute it free <strong>of</strong> charge to the poor <strong>and</strong> to<br />

hospitals. She also taught these people how to make it. To<br />

prepare: Mix the fl our with boiling milk or water. Address:<br />

2708 Virginia St., Berkeley, California 94709. Phone: 415-<br />

848-1481.<br />

1029. Yamanaka, Mitsuaki. 1984. Re: The work <strong>of</strong> Takashin<br />

Ltd. with tempeh in Japan. Letter to William Shurtleff at<br />

Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, May. 3 p. [Jap]<br />

• Summary: Our company, Takashin, Ltd. (Takashin

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