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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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“a t<strong>of</strong>u dealer [seller, maker].”<br />

Tônyû: “soybean (soya) milk.” Better: Soymilk, soya<br />

milk, or soybean milk.<br />

Yuba: “dried bean curds.” Should say: The thin proteinlipid<br />

fi lm formed atop soymilk when it is heated.<br />

Neither nomamé nor tsurumame, both referring to the<br />

wild soybean, are entries in this dictionary.<br />

Non soy: Azuki (characters small + bean): “an adzuki<br />

[adsuki] bean.” Azuki aisu: “adzuki-bean sherbet.” Azukikayu:<br />

“adzuki-bean gruel.” Azuki-han: “rice boiled with<br />

adzuki beans.” Azuki-iro no: “reddish-brown or russet”<br />

in color. Kintoki-azuki: “a large kind <strong>of</strong> adzuki bean.”<br />

Kintoki-mame: “adzuki beans cooked with sugar.” Mochi:<br />

“rice cake.” Yôkan: “sweet jelly <strong>of</strong> beans; a fi ne sweet<br />

paste.” Mizu-yôkan: “s<strong>of</strong>t adzuki-bean jelly.” Mushi-yôkan:<br />

“steamed adzuki-bean jelly.” Yôkan-iro: “a liver [rusty]<br />

color; a faded color (as <strong>of</strong> clothes).” Note: The character yô<br />

in yôkan means “sheep” <strong>and</strong> can also be pronounced hitsuji.<br />

Zenzai: “thick bean-meal soup (with sugar <strong>and</strong> rice cake<br />

[mochi]).”<br />

1563. Steinkraus, Keith H. ed. 1996. H<strong>and</strong>book <strong>of</strong><br />

indigenous fermented foods. 2nd ed., revised <strong>and</strong> exp<strong>and</strong>ed.<br />

New York, Basel, <strong>and</strong> Hong Kong: Marcel Dekker, Inc. xii<br />

+ 776 p. Illust. Index. 26 cm. Food Science <strong>and</strong> Technology<br />

Series, Vol. 73. Index. 26 cm. [350 + soy ref]<br />

• Summary: This 2nd edition is about 108 pages longer<br />

than the original 1983 edition. Contents: Introduction<br />

to indigenous fermented foods. (1) Indonesian tempe<br />

<strong>and</strong> related fermentations: Protein-rich vegetarian meat<br />

substitutes. (2) Indigenous fermented foods involving an<br />

acid fermentation: Preserving <strong>and</strong> enhancing organoleptic<br />

<strong>and</strong> nutritional qualities <strong>of</strong> fresh foods. (3) Indigenous<br />

fermented foods involving an alkaline fermentation. (4)<br />

Indigenous fermented foods in which ethanol is a major<br />

product: Type <strong>and</strong> nutritional signifi cance <strong>of</strong> primitive wines<br />

<strong>and</strong> beers <strong>and</strong> related alcoholic foods (incl. Chinese koji (big<br />

qu {bricklike in shape <strong>and</strong> made from barley or wheat <strong>and</strong><br />

soybeans, inoculated with Aspergillus} molds), <strong>and</strong> small qu<br />

({spherical, plate-circular or rectangular in shape <strong>and</strong> made<br />

from rice or rice bran with various herbs, inoculated with<br />

Mucor <strong>and</strong>/or Rhizopus molds}, p. 449), Japanese amazake<br />

(p. 480-81).<br />

(5) Indigenous amino acid / peptide sauces <strong>and</strong> pastes<br />

with meatlike fl avors (p. 509-654): Introduction.<br />

(A) Soy sauces: Japanese shoyu: Koikuchi,<br />

usukuchi, <strong>and</strong> tamari; Chinese chiang-yu, by Tamotsu<br />

Yokotsuka (p. 511-17). Biochemistry <strong>of</strong> Saccharomyces<br />

(Zygosaccharomyces) rouxii, by Steinkraus, Franta, <strong>and</strong><br />

Ayres (p. 517-24). Umami fl avor, by Kawamura <strong>and</strong><br />

Kare (p. 524-28). Chinese fermented products related to<br />

soy sauce (big qu, small qu, <strong>and</strong> jiang, by Chen & Ho, p.<br />

528). Taiwanese soy sauce, by Liu (p. 528-33). Malaysian<br />

soy sauce: Kicap, by Ong, Mercian, Poesponegoro <strong>and</strong><br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 484<br />

Tanuwidja (p. 531-39). Indonesian soy sauce: Kecap, by<br />

Saono, Poesponegoro <strong>and</strong> Tanuwidja (p. 539-43). Korean<br />

soy sauce, by Chang (incl. homemade kanjang <strong>and</strong> meju, p.<br />

543-44). Taiwanese black bean sauce: Inyu, by Jan et al. (p.<br />

544). Philippine taosi, by Steinkraus (p. 544-45).<br />

(B) Fermented soybean pastes: Japanese miso, by Ebine,<br />

Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Aoyagi (p. 545-56). Indonesian tauco, by<br />

Saono et al. <strong>and</strong> Winarno (p. 556-59). Korean Doenjang <strong>and</strong><br />

kochujang, by Chang, Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Aoyagi (p. 559-64).<br />

(C) Fermented fi sh-shrimp sauces <strong>and</strong> pastes (p. 565-<br />

606).<br />

(D) Fish-soy sauce <strong>and</strong> fi sh-soy paste, by Ismail, p. 607-<br />

11).<br />

(E) Miscellaneous Oriental fermentations. Japanese<br />

natto (itohiki natto), by Hayashi <strong>and</strong> Ota (p. 611-24).<br />

Japanese Hama-natto (hamanatto) <strong>and</strong> related products (incl.<br />

yukiwari natto, p. 624-26). Chinese red rice: Anka (Angkah),<br />

by Lin, Su <strong>and</strong> Wang, Sooksan <strong>and</strong> Gongsakdi, <strong>and</strong><br />

Pichyangkura (p. 626-33). Chinese sufu, by Su <strong>and</strong> L.-P. Lin<br />

(p. 633-41). Preserved duck eggs / Century eggs, Chinese<br />

pidan (p. 641-42). Pidan are made by a chemical process,<br />

not by fermentation. Note: Chapter 5 contains about 240<br />

references. Much <strong>of</strong> the text in this chapter is similar to that<br />

in the original 1983 edition, although this chapter is 7 pages<br />

longer <strong>and</strong> contains 3-4 new sections.<br />

(6) Mushrooms: Producing single-cell (microbial)<br />

protein on lignocellulosic or other food <strong>and</strong> agricultural<br />

wastes.<br />

(7) General papers related to indigenous fermented<br />

foods. Address: Inst. <strong>of</strong> Food Science, Cornell Univ.,<br />

Geneva, New York.<br />

1564. Tamang, J.P.; Nikkuni, Sayuki. 1996. Selection <strong>of</strong><br />

starter cultures for the production <strong>of</strong> kinema, a fermented<br />

soybean food <strong>of</strong> the Himalaya. World J. <strong>of</strong> Microbiology <strong>and</strong><br />

Biotechnology 12(6):629-35. [23 ref]<br />

• Summary: Kinema, a fermented soyfood, serves as source<br />

<strong>of</strong> low-cost protein to the people <strong>of</strong> the eastern Himalayas.<br />

The traditional method <strong>of</strong> making kinema results in a product<br />

with inconsistent quality. Some 45 strains <strong>of</strong> spore-forming<br />

bacteria were isolated from nine samples <strong>of</strong> kinema collected<br />

from local markets in the Darjeeling Hills <strong>and</strong> Sikkim, India.<br />

From these, ten strains <strong>of</strong> Bacillus subtilis were selected as<br />

possible starter cultures on the basis <strong>of</strong> enzyme activities<br />

<strong>and</strong> production <strong>of</strong> stringiness. Two <strong>of</strong> these were eventually<br />

chosen as the best starter cultures for improved kinema<br />

production. Address: National Food Research Inst., Ministry<br />

<strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Forestry <strong>and</strong> Fisheries, 2-1-2, Kannondai,<br />

Tsukuba, Ibaraki 305 Japan 305. Present address <strong>of</strong> Tamang:<br />

Microbiology Research Lab., Dep. <strong>of</strong> Botany, Sikkim<br />

Government College, Gangtok, Sikkim 737 102, India.<br />

1565. Winter, Ruth. 1996. Super soy: The miracle bean. New<br />

York, NY: Crown Publishers Inc. 192 p. Index. 21 cm. [106

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