History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

nattô) and whole-bean natto (tsubu nattô) in Edo (today’s
Tokyo).
Note: This is the earliest document seen (Jan. 2012) that
contains the term “tsubu natto.”
20. Kitagawa, Morisada. 1853. Morisada mankô [Mr.
Morisada’s book of comical illustrations without particular
thoughts]. Japan. [Jap]*
• Summary: This book contains an early reference to Koridofu
(dried-frozen tofu), and an illustration of a man selling
natto (nattô). He is squatting with a bowl in one hand
between two baskets of natto which are apparently connected
by a shoulder pole. In his right hand is a cup with a handle
on it, which he uses to scoop out the natto.
In Tôfu no Hon [The Book of Tofu], by Abe and Tsuji
(1974, p. 8) is an illustration of a tofu street vendor taken
from this book. It shows two types of shoulder poles and
attached carrying containers. The upper left one is from
the Edo / Tokyo area. The one actually on the man’s right
shoulder is from the Kyoto & Osaka area.
According to Saito (1985, p. 16) the book may also
mention and have an illustration of a walking street vendor
selling tofu. The author was born in 1810. The book may
have a second title, Ruijû kinsei fûzoku-shi.
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 32
21. Sakato, Shi. 1859. Ryôri chôhô-ki [Records on
convenience cooking]. Japan. 60 p. Unpublished manuscript.
Japanese summary by Kawakami 1978, p. 177. [Jap]
• Summary: Contains many recipes for tofu and miso, plus
amazake and shirozake (lit. “white sake”), hishio, natto, and
Kinzanji miso.
22. Hepburn, James C. 1867. A Japanese and English
dictionary; with an English and Japanese index. Shanghai,
China: American Presbyterian Mission Press. xii + 558 + 132
p. 2nd ed. 1872; Abridged ed. 1873, 1881; 3rd ed. 1886; 4th
ed. 1888; 5th 1894; 7th ed. 1903. First edition was reprinted
in 1966 and 1983. Index. 24 cm.
• Summary: This is Hepburn’s earliest Japanese-English
dictionary. The words are arranged alphabetically by their
romanized spelling. Each word is written in three ways.
After the romanized word (main entry), written in uppercase
letters with diacritical marks (which we have largely omitted
below), the same word is written in katakana, then again
in Chinese characters. Finally, one or more defi nitions are
given.
Soy-related words and terms in the 1867 edition:
Amazake: Sweet sake, a kind of fermented rice.
Daidz [Daizu]: A kind of large white bean. Soja hispida.
Go: Beans mashed into paste. Mame no go.
Gokoku: The fi ve cereals, wheat, rice, millet, beans, kibi.
Hiriodz [Hiriodzu, Hiryozu]: A kind of food [made of
tofu fried in oil].
Ireru–Kono mame was yoku iremash’ta: these beans are
well parched.
Iriru–Mame wo iriru: to parch peas [beans].
Kinako [“yellow fl our”]: A kind of food made of beans.
Kiradz [Kirazu]: The refuse left in making tôfu.
Koji: Malt made by fermenting rice or barley, in the
process of making sake, and soy [sauce].
Koji-buta: A shallow box for holding malt.
Mame: Bean, pea. Mame no ko: bean fl our.
Miso: A kind of sauce made of [soy] beans.
Natto: A kind of food made of [soy] beans.
Nigari: The brine formed by the deliquescence of salt.
Sashi (verb): Shoyu wo sashi–To season with soy
[sauce].
Sashimi: Raw fi sh cut in thin slices and eaten with soy.
Sh’taji [Sorted after “Shis,” Shitaji]: Soy (used only by
women). Syn. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language
document seen (March 2008) that uses the word “sh’taji” or
shitaji” to refer to soy sauce.
Shoyu: Soy, a kind of sauce made of fermented wheat
and beans. This is the earliest English-language document