History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

The Bencao gangmu (16th century AD) described
many types of shi made at different localities, and gave the
medicinal use of each.
“In more recent times, shi can be classifi ed into three
general types.” (1) Aspergillus oryzae mold type, which is
the traditional type, also known as tou-shi [douchi], and
is the most common type, prepared as described above,
but using pure cultures of Aspergillus oryzae. Today the
fermentation is carried out at 25ºC in wooden barrels.
“In some areas, the washed, molded beans are mixed
with 16-18% salt and fermented at 35ºC for 30 days.” (2)
Mucor mold type, which is usually made in Szechuan in
wooden trays. The process is described. The mold is Mucor
racemosus Fresenius. (3) Bacillus bacteria type, called shuitou-shi
[pinyin: shui-dou-chi], is probably the same product
as natto in Japan [except that it is salted]. To make shuitou-shi:
Clean, soak, and boil soybeans until soft. Place in a
cloth bag and cover with straw [an excellent natural source
of B. subtilis]. After incubation for 1-2 days at 25-30ºC
the soybeans will be covered with viscous substances. The
quality of the product is ascertained by the stickiness of the
beans. Mix the sticky soybeans with minced ginger and salt,
then pack tightly into jars, and age for one week. They are
now ready to consume. “The organism responsible for this
fermentation has been identifi ed as Bacillus species.”
Note 1. Is the third type salted? Salt is apparently added
after the 1st fermentation and before the 2nd. Thus, it would
seem to be an intermediate form between douchi / tou-shi
(fermented black soybeans, salted) and natto (unsalted). If it
is not salted, it would seem to be Chinese natto.
Note 2. This is the only document seen (Jan. 2012)
that mentions either shui-tou-shi or shui-dou-chi. Address:
1. USDA/NRRC, 1815 N. University St., Peoria, Illinois
61604; 2. Inst. of Microbiology, Academia Sinica, Beijing,
China.
1202. Wang, H.L.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1986. Glossary of
indigenous fermented foods. Mycologia Memoir No. 11. p.
317-44. Chap. 18. (C.W. Hesseltine and Hwa L. Wang, eds.
Indigenous Fermented Food of Non-Western Origin. Berlin
& Stuttgart: J. Cramer). [29 ref]
• Summary: The section titled “Fermented Legume
Products” defi nes chao (Vietnamese fermented tofu),
chiang-chu (Chinese koji), ch’ou-toufu and ch’ou-toufuru
(fermented tofu), Damsuejang and doenjang (Korean
miso), furu, sufu, hon-fan or red sufu (fermented tofu), inshi
(“Fermented black soybeans from China”), in-yu (Type
of Chinese soy sauce made from black soybeans), kanjang
(Korean soy sauce), kenima [sic, kinema], ketjap or kecap
(Indonesian soy sauce from black soybeans), meitauza
or mei-tou-cha (fermented okara), meju (maiju or maeju;
Korean soybean koji), natto, oncom (onchom or oncom),
see-iu (see-iew; Thai soy sauce made from whole soybeans);
soy sauce, soybean paste, tahuri (tahuli; Filipino fermented
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 378
tofu. See sufu), tao-chieo (tao-jiao; Thai miso), taohu-yi
(Fermented tofu from Thailand. See sufu), taokoan, tempe
(many types), thua-kab (dry thua-nao), thua-merk (wet and
cooked thua-nao), thua-nao (Thai natto), tosufu (see sufu),
toufu-ru (fermented tofu), tsue-fan (tsui-fan, chee fan;
fermented tofu).
Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Nov. 2011) that contains the term “Fermented black
soybeans from China,” or that uses these terms to refer to
in-shi.
Under “Fermented Cereal-Legume Products” we fi nd:
chiang, chiang-yu (chau-yu, Chinese soy sauce), fermented
soybeans (fermented black soybeans), hamanatto, kochujang
(kochu chang), miso, shoyu, tamari, taotjo (tao-tjo, tao dji;
Fermented soybeans from Indonesia or Thailand [sic, No!
Tao-tjo is Indonesian-style miso and tao dji are Indonesian
fermented black soybeans]), tao-tjung or tou-chiang (chiang),
tao-yu (tou-yu; Chinese soy sauce), tauco (taocho, taoco,
taucho; Indonesian miso), tou-pan-chiang (Chinese fava bean
miso), tou-shi (toushih; Chinese fermented black soybeans),
toyo (Filipino soy sauce). Note 2. This is the earliest Englishlanguage
document seen (March 2009) that uses the word
“taocho” to refer to Indonesian-style miso.
Fermented Vegetable Products include: Chiang-tsai
(chiang-tsay; Vegetables in China pickled in chiang or soy
sauce or tien-mien-chiang), miso-zuke. Address: USDA/
NRRC, 1815 N. University St., Peoria, Illinois 61604.
1203. Toyo Shinpo (Soyfoods News).1987. 90 byô Nama C M
o 13 Kai. Zennôren ichi oku en senden jigyô [The National
Natto Association’s ¥100,000,000 advertising campaign
included thirteen live, 90-second television commercials].
Feb. 1. p. 3. [Jap; eng+]
• Summary: The Japanese National Natto Association has
been conducting a big advertising campaign since August
1986. From October 3 to December 26, 1986, they ran
commercials on TV in the mornings showing nutritional
value comparisons between soybeans and natto, health and
physical fi tness benefi ts, recipes, etc. They have also been
distributing 3 booklets: 1. Daisuki Natto (all-color, 16 pages,
¥100, NHK Enterprises K.K.), which contains natto recipes;
2. Natto Man (like Superman) (all-color, 16 pages, ¥15/
copy); 3. A picture book for kids. Free, but you have to order
100 or more. Information on natto that had been displayed
on the NHK Good Morning Health Special has also been
distributed in fl yer form.
1204. Flinders, Carol. 1987. Laurel’s Kitchen. Washington
Post. Feb. 18. p. E3.
• Summary: A vitamin B-12 defi ciency is a rare but very
serious problem. “Another way to get vitamin B-12 is to eat
tempeh or miso every day”–although neither is a completely
reliable source. “Other fermented foods, such as natto and
even shoyu, may contain B-12, but it shouldn’t be counted