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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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1975 – In <strong>Natto</strong> Kenkosho (The <strong>Natto</strong> Way to Good Health),<br />

Teruo Ohta notes that natto is now packaged in polystyrene<br />

paper (PSP). This is also the earliest known document to<br />

mention yukiwari-natto, made in Japan by mixing itohiki<br />

natto with rice koji <strong>and</strong> salt, then aging the mixture. Or to<br />

mention hikiwari natto, made from cracked soybeans.<br />

1976 – “Kenima, ” a misspelling <strong>of</strong> kinema, is fi rst<br />

mentioned by Batra <strong>and</strong> Millner. “Kirima,” a misspelling <strong>of</strong><br />

kinema, was fi rst mentioned in 1978 by Hittle.<br />

1977 March – An article titled “Isolation <strong>and</strong><br />

characterization <strong>of</strong> four plasmids from Bacillus subtilis,” by<br />

Teruo Tanaka et al. in the Journal <strong>of</strong> Bacteriology is the fi rst<br />

to mention plasmids in connection with Bacillus subtilis or<br />

with natto. <strong>Natto</strong> quickly becomes a major player in genetic<br />

research worldwide, <strong>and</strong> such research helps to unravel many<br />

<strong>of</strong> the mysteries <strong>of</strong> natto’s basic properties. A plasmid is a<br />

type <strong>of</strong> DNA which is separate from the chromosomal DNA<br />

<strong>and</strong> which is capable <strong>of</strong> replicating independently <strong>of</strong> the<br />

chromosomal DNA.<br />

1978 Oct. – Charles Kendall, founder <strong>and</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> Kendall<br />

Food Co. (Brookline Village, Massachusetts) <strong>and</strong> a devotee<br />

<strong>of</strong> macrobiotics, is the earliest known Caucasian maker <strong>of</strong><br />

commercial natto in the United States. He continued to make<br />

natto (as well as mochi <strong>and</strong> amazake) for more than 30 years.<br />

1980 – Hawaijar, a close relative <strong>of</strong> natto from Manipur, in<br />

northeast India, is fi rst mentioned by Bilasini Devi et al.<br />

1982 April – Martin Halsey, founder <strong>and</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> Soy Joy<br />

(Nyon, Switzerl<strong>and</strong>), is the earliest known Caucasian maker<br />

<strong>of</strong> commercial natto in Europe. He is an American by birth.<br />

1982 – Kinema, a close relative <strong>of</strong> natto from eastern Nepal,<br />

is fi rst mentioned by Park.<br />

1983 May – An article by Toshio Hara et al. in the journal<br />

Agricultural <strong>and</strong> Biological Chemistry is the fi rst to show the<br />

remarkable circular illustration <strong>of</strong> a plasmid.<br />

1985 – Akuni, a close relative <strong>of</strong> natto from Nagal<strong>and</strong> in<br />

northeast India, <strong>and</strong> Pe-bout, a close relative <strong>of</strong> natto from<br />

the Shan states <strong>of</strong> Burma, are both fi rst mentioned by Martin<br />

– in the Wall Street Journal! He notes that ethnologist Shuji<br />

Yoshida <strong>of</strong> Osaka’s national museum has developed a “natto<br />

triangle” theory; he mentioned these foods in Japanese in<br />

connection with that theory. Akuni is now generally spelled<br />

“Aakhone.”<br />

1987 Oct. – <strong>Natto</strong>kinase, a fi brinolytic enzyme in natto, is<br />

fi rst mentioned by Sumi et al. <strong>Natto</strong>kinase was discovered<br />

Copyright © <strong>2012</strong> by Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 7<br />

in 1980 by Dr. Hiroyuki Sumi while working at the Chicago<br />

University Medical School.<br />

1994 – Kinema (originally from eastern Nepal) is reported to<br />

be popular among the Lepchas who call it Satlyangser <strong>and</strong><br />

among the Bhutias who call it bari (Sarkar, Tamang, Cook<br />

<strong>and</strong> Owens).<br />

2001 April – An article by M. Kaneki et al. in the journal<br />

Nutrition is the fi rst to point out that natto is one <strong>of</strong> the most<br />

concentrated sources <strong>of</strong> vitamin K-1 (MK-7). Conclusion:<br />

“... natto consumption may contribute to the relatively lower<br />

fracture risk in Japanese women.”<br />

2003 April – An article by Kasahara <strong>and</strong> Kato, published in<br />

the prestigious journal Nature (London) confi rms that PQQ<br />

(pyrroloquinoline quinone), a substance discovered in 1979,<br />

can be classifi ed as a vitamin. More specifi cally, it is a new<br />

B vitamin, joining niacin / nicotinic acid (vitamin B-3) <strong>and</strong><br />

rib<strong>of</strong>l avin (vitamin B-2) – fi rst new vitamin in 55 years. The<br />

most concentrated known source <strong>of</strong> PQQ is natto.<br />

2005 – Synonyms <strong>of</strong> kinema (originally from eastern<br />

Nepal) in nearby local languages are reported to be<br />

Kinemba (Limbu). Hokuma (Rai). Bari (Bhutia in Sikkim).<br />

Satlyangser (Lepcha in Sikkim).<br />

2008 – Sieng, a close relative <strong>of</strong> natto from Cambodia,<br />

is fi rst reported by Tanaka. Interestingly, the name <strong>of</strong> the<br />

soybean in Cambodia has long been s<strong>and</strong>ek seng (Brenier<br />

1910; Petelot 1952).<br />

2009 – Peruyyan, a close relative <strong>of</strong> kinema from Arunachal<br />

in northeast India, is fi rst reported by Tamang.<br />

2010 – Dr. Jyoti Tamang <strong>of</strong> Sikkim proposes a new “Kinema<br />

– <strong>Natto</strong> – Thua-nao triangle” (or KNT triangle) which is<br />

more complete <strong>and</strong> more accurate than the “natto triangle”<br />

proposed in 1972 by Dr. Sasuke Nakao.<br />

The many names natto / kinema <strong>and</strong> their relatives:<br />

aakhone<br />

aakhuni<br />

akhoni<br />

akhuni<br />

akuni<br />

axone<br />

bari<br />

bekang or bekang-um<br />

bekanthu<br />

bhari<br />

chuana

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