History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

or soybean koji]. Meju is used as a major ingredient in
producing soy sauce, red-pepper paste, and toenjang. Cooked
black [soy] beans, seasoned with soy sauce, sugar, and white
sesame, are served at least once a day. Tofu (tubu), or bean
curd, frequently appears on this menu, but this is always
purchased from a professional maker, who delivers it to the
monastery on the back of his motorcycle. When the tofu is
especially fresh, it is served steamed in whole blocks, to be
dipped into a sauce made of soya, sesame oil, and red-pepper
sauce.”
Because of Mahayana Buddhism’s dietary restrictions,
monks don’t eat garlic or onions, so widespread in the
diets of regular Koreans. Those foods are considered “to
be mild aphrodisiacs, something celibates can do without.
To compensate for the blandness of the food, the kitchen
staff replaces the garlic and onions with lots of red pepper
(koch’u), along with red-pepper paste (koch’ujang),” brown
sesame and white sesame. At the ceremonial dinner on
festive days, white rice is replaced by glutinous rice and
special dishes such as fried tofu and nori (kim) are served.
Note: The author was privileged to spend fi ve years as
a Buddhist monk in Korean monasteries between 1974 and
1979, primarily at Songgwang-sa. He made two additional
trips to Songgwang-sa in Nov. 1987 and July 1988. The
monastery is in Suncheon near the southern coast of Korea.
1431. Kawakami, Kozo. 1992. Tsurezure Nihon shokumotsushi.
2 v [Leisurely history of Japanese foods. Vols. 1-2].
Tokyo: Tokyo Bijutsu. Illust. 21 cm. [35+ ref. Jap]
• Summary: Vol. 1 (vi + 151 p.) contains chapters on:
Ryokutô [ryokuto] (bundô, yaenari; p. 74-76, mentions tofu.
Note: Kinch 1879 says Phaseolus radiatus subtriloba =
bundô). Ganmodoki and hiryozu [tofu burgers] (p. 85-89;
9+5 ref.). Yose-dofu (p. 89-99; 13 ref.). Itoko-ni (p. 108-10;
13 ref.; with soybeans, azuki beans and tofu). Gomashio (p.
128-30; 7 ref.).
Vol. 2 (3 + 151 + 5 p.): A color illustration titled
(Nori-zukuri no zu), by Katsukawa Shunsen (?) on the
dust jacket shows women making nori in old Japan. They
are chopping freshly collected nori and drying it in sheets.
Another old 3-part illustration of making nori is printed on
the cover. Contents (centered on foods and treats from the
sea) includes: Nori and kawa-nori (from the sea and from
rivers. p. 1-5; 35 ref. 1 illust.). Asakusa nori, Kassai nori,
Shinagawa nori, and other nori from the Pacifi c Coast and
Inland Sea (Setonai-kai) during the Edo Period (p. 8-16, 39
ref. 4 illust.). Nori from the Japan Sea (Nihonkai) No. 1:
Izumo nori, Uppuri nori, and Kamoji nori. Uppuri is a place
near Izumo, and Kamoji is a wig-like hair fi ller (p. 17-20, 21
ref.). Nori from the Japan Sea (Nihonkai) No. 2: Kuro nori,
Yuki nori, Noto nori, and Kasashima / Kasajima of Echigo
nori (p. 21-24, 21 ref.). The story of river nori, Shiba river
nori, Nikko nori, and Kikuchi nori (p. 25-30, 26 ref. 1 illust.).
Dried frozen tokoroten (kôri tokoroten), made from frozen
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 442
seaweed (p. 98-102, 3 ref.) Mizukara (a spicy food made
from kombu, p. 103-05, 16 ref.). Musubi kombu, musubi
kanpyo, and musubi sayori (musubi means “tied up in like a
bow in a special way;” p. 106-10, 25 ref. 2 illust.). Musubi
yamaimo (mountain glutinous yam) and musubi tofu (both
tied up in a special decorative way. p. 111-14, 14 ref.). Also
contains other interesting illustrations and chapters. Address:
Japan.
1432. Sass, Lorna J. 1992. An ecological kitchen: Healthy
meals for you and the planet. New York, NY: William
Morrow and Company, Inc. xv + 492 p. Index. 26 cm. [35+*
ref]
• Summary: This excellent vegetarian (actually vegan),
ecological cookbook, proves that the most environmentally
sound diet is also the healthiest and, for many, the most
delicious and economical. It emphasizes whole grains, fruits
and vegetables, focuses on unprocessed and minimally
packaged foods, use of regional and seasonal foods,
effi cient menu planning, and creative recycling of leftovers.
Delightful quotations relevant to the book’s subject are
scattered throughout.
The author’s guiding principles for cooking ecologically
are: “Eat a plant-based [vegan] diet; buy organic, regional,
seasonal produce whenever possible; and use nontoxic
products to keep your kitchen clean.”
The chapter titled “Tofu and tempeh” (p. 217-31)
contains basic information and many recipes. Other soyrelated
recipes include: Thai vegetable soup (with tofu, p.
39). Ten-ingredient lo mien (with tofu, p. 165-66). Triple
bean maybe it’s chili (p. 186-87). Black soybeans (p. 191-92;
keep the skins on by adding salt). Curried mustard greens
with tofu (p. 255). Chinese-style stir-fry of kale, onions, and
marinated tofu (p. 258). Tahini-miso spread (p. 315). Sundried
tomato dip (with tofu, p. 318). Brilliant beet dip (with
tofu, p. 319). Onion upside-down cornbread (with tofu, p.
323-24). Tofu whip (like whipped cream or whip topping, p.
398).
The very fi ne chapter / glossary “Ingredients A to Z” (p.
399-468) includes: Aduki / azuki beans, agar, almond butter,
almonds, amaranth, amasake (incl. koji), arame, barley malt
syrup.
Black beans–fermented (salty black beans): “Black
beans, fermented (Salty black beans): A little of this Chinese
specialty–small black soybeans preserved in salt–goes a long
way. About 1 tablespoon adds a deliciously complex fl avor
to stir-fries. Chop the beans fi nely to disperse their fl avor. If
you like the taste but want to reduce the salt, soak the beans
briefl y in water before using. Fermented black beans last for
about a year in a well-sealed jar under refrigeration.
“Bragg Liquid Aminos: This is a very tasty soy-saucelike
condiment made by extracting amino acids from organic
soybeans. Its fl avor is more winelike and complex than most
soy sauces. It is salty, so sprinkle sparingly. (There is no