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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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consumption. Domestic soybean production is 400,000<br />

tonnes.<br />

1899–Mogi Keizaburo <strong>of</strong> Kikkoman <strong>of</strong> Kikkoman (1st<br />

generation) starts using a boiler for the fi rst time in the shoyu<br />

industry. Address: Norin Suisansho, Tokei Johobu, Norin<br />

Tokeika Kacho Hosa.<br />

51. Sempolowski, A. 1900. Ueber den Anbau der Sojabohne<br />

[On soybean culture]. Fuehling’s L<strong>and</strong>wirthschaftliche<br />

Zeitung 49(5):193-96. March 1. [Ger]<br />

• Summary: “The soybean fi rst aroused great interest<br />

in Europe after the Vienna World Exposition in 1873,<br />

where a large collection <strong>of</strong> soybean varieties from China,<br />

Japan, India, etc. were exhibited. Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Haberl<strong>and</strong>t in<br />

Vienna <strong>and</strong> others subsequently conducted a large series <strong>of</strong><br />

agronomic trials with the soybean in various locations from<br />

Austria <strong>and</strong> Germany. These, however, showed that the<br />

cultivation <strong>of</strong> this fodder plant in the districts concerned is<br />

not worth recommending since the soybean matured either<br />

very late or not at all. At that time I also conducted soybean<br />

agronomic trials in the province <strong>of</strong> Posen <strong>and</strong> in Russian<br />

Pol<strong>and</strong>; these, too, gave negative results in those vegetation<br />

areas. The farmers were discouraged from cultivating the<br />

soybeans <strong>and</strong> pretty soon the once-popular fodder plant was<br />

indeed forgotten.<br />

“However, in more recent years, there arose a new, eager<br />

apostle <strong>of</strong> the soybean, the farmer J. Owsinski [Owinsky,<br />

Ovinski] from the province <strong>of</strong> Podolia. He had been working<br />

for a long time in East Asia, allegedly, <strong>and</strong> there he learned<br />

about new, earlier-ripening varieties <strong>of</strong> this fodder plant.<br />

For cultivation, he recommends two varieties above all:<br />

one black- <strong>and</strong> one brown-seeded. Since the soybean still<br />

continues to have a great reputation, publicity, especially in<br />

Russia, as an excellent fodder plant, I decided to conduct<br />

another agronomic trial with these two new varieties at<br />

agricultural research station at Sobieszyn (in Russian<br />

Pol<strong>and</strong>). I wanted to answer two questions: First the time<br />

required for the soybean to mature in our climate, <strong>and</strong> second<br />

the value <strong>of</strong> the entire plant as fodder.<br />

According to Owsinski, the soybean took 100 days to<br />

come to vegetative maturity in southwest Russia <strong>and</strong> 110<br />

days in western Russia, corresponding to late varieties <strong>of</strong><br />

oats or blue lupins. The brown-seeded soybean is said to<br />

ripen in 100 days in southwest Russia <strong>and</strong> 108-110 days<br />

in western Russia, however the yield is low <strong>and</strong> the seeds<br />

shatter easily.<br />

In East Asia soybeans are used to make soy sauce<br />

(“Shoya, Soohu, or Soy”), miso, <strong>and</strong> natto–the last two being<br />

fermented foods. A table shows the nutritional composition<br />

<strong>of</strong> soybean cake on a dry weight basis (41.73% protein, <strong>and</strong><br />

7.18% fat).<br />

On 14 May 1898 the author planted his trial fi eld with<br />

soybeans. On Sept. 22 he harvested 30 plants <strong>of</strong> brownseeded<br />

soybeans, including 200 gm <strong>of</strong> seeds; 100 seeds<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 45<br />

weighed 22.07 gm. The plants were 26-36 cm high <strong>and</strong> on<br />

each stem were 13-17 pods. The time to maturity was 140<br />

days. On Oct. 5 he harvested 23 plants <strong>of</strong> black-seeded<br />

soybeans, including 208 gm <strong>of</strong> seeds; 100 seeds weighed<br />

16.01 gm. The plants attained a height <strong>of</strong> 30-55 cm, <strong>and</strong> on<br />

each stem were 12-56 pods. The time to maturity was 173<br />

days.<br />

On 17 May 1899 the author planted a larger quantity <strong>of</strong><br />

brown-seeded soybeans at the rate <strong>of</strong> 643 kg/ha in rows 40<br />

cm apart. The time to maturity was 130 days. At the same<br />

time on another test plot he planted black-seeded soybeans<br />

in rows 50 cm apart. The harvest took place on Oct. 7 <strong>and</strong><br />

the time to maturity was 170 days, but the seeds were not<br />

completely ripe <strong>and</strong> had to be dried for another week. A table<br />

shows the nutritional composition <strong>of</strong> these two varieties.<br />

Brown: 39.03% crude protein <strong>and</strong> 18.55% fat. Black:<br />

37.62% crude protein <strong>and</strong> 20.87% fat.<br />

“When we consider the protein <strong>and</strong> fat content <strong>of</strong> the<br />

seeds, we must acknowledge that the soybean, compared<br />

with other crops, has a very high nutritional value. However,<br />

farmers must be urgently advised to treat the new, allegedly<br />

early-ripening varieties with great caution, since they have<br />

not yet been suffi ciently tested to be recklessly praised <strong>and</strong><br />

their cultivation widely exp<strong>and</strong>ed.”<br />

Note: This document contains the earliest clear date<br />

seen for soybeans in Russia, or the cultivation <strong>of</strong> soybeans<br />

in Russia (14 May 1898). This is also the earliest document<br />

seen that describes soybean breeding in Russia. The source<br />

<strong>of</strong> these soybeans was Owinski, who apparently obtained<br />

them from East Asia. Address: Dr., Sobieszyn [Russian<br />

Pol<strong>and</strong>?].<br />

52. Abel, Mary Hinman. 1900. Beans, peas, <strong>and</strong> other<br />

legumes as food. Farmers’ Bulletin (USDA) No. 121. 32<br />

p. See p. 9-11. Illust. Revised Nov. 1904. Corrected March<br />

1906. [1 ref]<br />

• Summary: A section titled “Soy Bean (Glycine hispida)”<br />

(p. 9-11) briefl y describes the soybean plant <strong>and</strong> the rich<br />

nutritional composition <strong>of</strong> its seeds. The fi rst paragraph is<br />

quoted from USDA Farmers’ Bulletin 58.<br />

Starting with paragraph 2: “This leguminous plant,<br />

probably native in China, is the most important legume <strong>of</strong><br />

China <strong>and</strong> Japan... In the Orient this bean <strong>and</strong> the various<br />

food products made from it are so largely consumed that it is<br />

perhaps the most important food plant next to rice. The soy<br />

bean is eaten to a small extent boiled like other beans, but in<br />

China <strong>and</strong> Japan it is elaborated into a variety <strong>of</strong> products, all<br />

<strong>of</strong> which have a high percentage <strong>of</strong> protein, <strong>and</strong> when eaten<br />

in connection with the staple food, rice, which is so defi cient<br />

in that constituent [protein], helps to make a well-balanced<br />

dietary. Some one <strong>of</strong> these products is eaten at perhaps every<br />

meal <strong>and</strong> by rich <strong>and</strong> poor alike, especially in the interior <strong>of</strong><br />

these countries, where sea food is not obtainable.<br />

“One <strong>of</strong> the most important <strong>of</strong> these preparations is

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