History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

section on ‘Fermented Tofu,’ and of course, I noticed your
updating the sections on nattô, Daitokuji nattô & hamanattô.
No doubt you did considerable revision.
“On rereading some parts of the original edition for
comparison I did have some questions (I am not sure if I had
brought them up with you or not):
“P. 312, unabridged. 4 Chinese characters (Cc). You
have read as ‘Nishiyama Sodo,’ though when I went there
I was told it was called ‘Saizan Sodo.’ (Incidentally it was
there that I had what I consider probably the fi nest tofu
dinner I can remember).
pp. 309, 312, unabridged; p. 385 revised = 4 Cc. I
have always heard this read as ‘Fusa Ryôri,’ not ‘Fucha,’
though perhaps the case is the same as with 2 Cc, which can
alternatively be read ‘sado’ or ‘chado’ [the way of tea]. Note:
Major Japanese dictionaries and glossaries all say fucha
ryôri.
“Incidentally, have you seen the new Shufu-no-tomo
English translation out on Shojin Cooking ($7.95)?”
776. Ishima, Toshio; Ohta, Teruo. 1979. Nattô seizô kôtei
ni okeru hakkô kôtei no kôtei kaiseki [Statistical analysis
of fermentation process in natto making]. Shokuhin Sogo
Kenkyujo Kenkyu Hokoku (Report of the National Food
Research Institute) No. 34. p. 258-65. Jan. [1 ref. Jap; eng]
• Summary: The best induction time was 2-3 hours for
optimal natto viscosity and hardness. A faster rate of
temperature increase improved the appearance and color
of natto, but caused a deterioration in viscosity. The longer
the temperature of the natto beans remained over 50ºC,
the greater the viscosity. Glutamic acid polymer formation
reaction continues at this temperature. From multiple
regression analysis, taste, appearance, and viscosity were the
most important sensory characteristics, in that order.
Reprinted from Natto Kagaku Kenkyu Kaishi (J. of the
Natto Research Society). No. 1. p. 5-11 (1977). Address:
National Food Research Inst., MAFF, Tokyo, Japan.
777. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1979. The book of
tofu: Food for mankind. Condensed and revised. New York,
NY: Ballantine Books. xii + 433 p. Jan. Illust. by Akiko
Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. 18 cm. [60 ref]
• Summary: This book has been extensively revised
and updated. Many names of Japanese tofu have been
Americanized. Contents: Preface. Acknowledgements. 1.
Protein East and West. 2. Tofu as a food. 3. Getting started:
Favorite tofu recipes. 4. Soybeans. 5. Fresh soy puree. 6.
Okara (Soy pulp). 7. Curds and whey. 8. Tofu & fi rm tofu.
9. Deep-fried tofu: Tofu cutlets, burgers, treasure balls, and
pouches. 10. Soymilk. 11. Silken tofu. 12. Grilled tofu. 13.
Frozen & dried-frozen tofu. 14. Fermented tofu. 15. Yuba.
Appendices: A. Tofu restaurants in Japan. B. Tofu shops and
soy dairies in the West. C. Varieties of tofu in East Asia. D.
Table of equivalents. Bibliography. Glossary. Contains 250
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 258
recipes and 100 illustrations. Price: $2.95.
This new edition features: (1) New recipes: Over fi fty
new American-style tofu recipes including Creamy Tofu
Dressings, Tofu Teriyaki, Tofu Burgers, Tofu Eggless Egg
Salad, and the like. The key to the book is an updated list of
favorite tofu recipes plus suggestions for incorporating them
into a weekly menu (p. 56). (2) New sections: An extensive
new introduction to Soy Protein Foods (p. 66), dairylike
products made from tofu (p. 150), dairylike products made
from soymilk (p. 302) including soymilk yogurt (fermented),
ice cream, kefi r, mayonnaise, whipped cream, popsicles,
buttermilk, and soy shakes. (3) New chapters: Fermented
Tofu and Varieties of Tofu in East Asia. (4) New basic
methodologies: The key recipes for homemade tofu and
homemade soymilk have been simplifi ed and improved.
(5) Updates: A complete listing of the 120 tofu shops and
soy dairies now operating in the West; over 60 Caucasianrun
shops have opened in the past two years. (6) New
Americanized tofu names: Including tofu burgers, tofu
cutlets, silken tofu, wine fermented tofu, and fresh soy puree.
(7) No sugar.
Page 110: “In Japan, tofu is also called momengoshi
(‘cotton-fi ltered’) to distinguish it from its popular
counterpart kinu-goshi (‘silken tofu’).” Note 1. This is the
earliest English-language document seen (March 2004) that
uses the term “silken tofu.”
Note 2. This is the 2nd earliest English-language
document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term “Winefermented
tofu” (p. 361).
In Jan. 1988 a new printing (but not a new edition) of
this book (the 13th), slightly revised, appeared. It had a new
cover and many new small illustrations. The subtitle was
“Protein Source of the Future–Now!” The heading: “The
World’s Bestselling Book on Tofu.” Address: New-Age
Foods Study Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California
94549.
778. Shurtleff, William. 1979. Protein source for the future.
Cosmos (NSW, Australia) 6(6):1, 4-5. Jan.
• Summary: Gives ten reasons why soybeans will be the
protein source of the future: 1. Optimum land utilization. 2.
Lowest cost protein. 3. High nutritional value. 4. Time tested.
5. Remarkably versatile. 6. Appropriate technology. 7. New
dairylike products. 8. Hardy and adaptive. 9. Free nitrogen
fertilizer. 10. Energy and resource effi cient. “All of these
ten factors work together synergistically, reinforcing one
another, to give added weight to the prediction that soybeans
will be a key protein source for the future on plant earth.”
Note: This information was published in July 1979
in The Book of Tempeh (p. 21-24). Address: Lafayette,
California.
779. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1979. Soybeans
(Document part). In: William Shurtleff and A. Aoyagi. 1979.