History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

properties). Nutritional quality. Toxicology. Conclusions.
The three major types made in Japan are itohiki natto,
yukiwari natto, and hama-natto; each has its own method
of preparation. Itohiki natto (sticky natto) is made by
fermenting whole cooked soybeans with Bacillus natto; it
is made in large quantities and, in Japan, accounts for more
than the total production of the other two types. Yukiwari
natto is made by mixing itohiki natto with rice koji and salt,
then aging the mixture. Hama-natto is made by inoculating
cooked soybeans with the koji mold, Aspergillus oryzae.
Hama-natto is made in and around only two small parts of
Japan: the cities of Hamamatsu and Kyoto, where it is sold as
a local souvenir food item.
The earliest document known to have mentioned the
word “natto” is the Shin Sarugaku Shiyu, written by A.
Fujiwara [Fujiwara no Akihira] in 1068; yet no description
was given of the method for making this natto. Itohiki natto
has long been used as a feed for livestock by village farmers
and as a food in Buddhist temples during the winter. During
its early history, natto was prepared by simply wrapping
warm, cooked soybeans in rice-straw bundles, and leaving
the wrapped soybeans at ambient temperature. Modern
techniques involved the use of starter cultures such as
Bacillus natto developed after the 1920s.
Production and consumption in Japan: In 1982 the
production of itohiki natto was about 170,000 metric
tons (tonnes), requiring the use of about 85,000 tonnes of
soybeans. [So from 1 kg of soybeans one gets about 2 kg
of fi nished natto]. This amount is nearly a 10% increase
over 1980. This large increase, in only two years, which is
extraordinary among Japanese traditional fermented foods,
may be due to: (1) the growing concern of the Japanese
public over the relationship between diet and health, and
over the excess intake of animal fats and salt. (2) The fact
that natto contains no salt. (3) The high and uniform quality
of commercial natto and its long shelf life, which has been
extended by the use of refrigerated distribution from natto
factories to households.
The majority of natto makers in Japan are small family
businesses that make about 300 kg of natto a day. These
companies distribute their fresh natto locally. However, there
is a growing number of large factories that make more than
3,000 kg per day.
Annual consumption of natto in Japan is 760 gm per
person. Until the 1950s, natto was made and consumed
mostly in the northeastern region of Japan. This localization
has recently changed due to the acceptability of natto in the
rest of Japan.
In Japan, natto is eaten with thinly sliced leeks (negi),
nori (a black, paper-thin sheet made of a sea vegetable),
and mustard mixed together with a small amount of soy
sauce, as a side dish for a bowl of cooked rice–typically for
breakfast and/or dinner. Natto is also used as one ingredient
in nori-wrapped sushi and in noodle soup. Address: Director,
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 376
Applied Microbiology Div., National Food Research Inst.,
Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries, Tsukuba,
Ibaraki, Japan.
1196. Picasso, Christian. 1986. Soybean in Burkina
Faso–Agronomic studies and development prospects.
In: S. Shanmugasundaram and E.W. Sulzberger, eds.
1986. Soybean in Tropical and Subtropical Cropping
Systems. Shanhua, Taiwan: Asian Vegetable Research and
Development Center. xv + 471 p. See p. 421-25.
• Summary: This country was formerly called Upper Volta.
Soybeans were introduced for experimental studies in 1958
by IRHO in an attempt to diversify traditional cropping
patterns. Experiments were established at two research
stations–one in the central part of the country (Saria,
rainfall 800 mm) and one in the southwest (Niangoloko,
rainfall 1,200 mm). In the 1970s, after suitable varieties
had been identifi ed, and following the successful extension
of improved groundnut cultivars to small farmers in the
vicinity of research stations, a similar attempt was made to
popularize soybean.
“The crop was gradually accepted by small landholders.
‘Nere’ seeds (Parkia biglobosa) are used for making a
fermented condiment known as ‘soumbala.’ The soybean
cultivars that were distributed (black seed coats) looked
much like nere, and could be prepared in the same way. This
culinary use has become widespread, and some families
prefer soybean to nere. The black seed coat is no longer
a reason for preference; cream-colored seeds are equally
acceptable.”
Note: This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Jan. 2012) that mentions “soumbala” (also called
soumbara or dawadawa), a condiment made from soybeans
resembling natto.
Constraints: “In 1975, the Regional Development
Organization (RDO) in the eastern part of the country
attempted to promote soybean. The RDO’s intention was to
train the farmers and then purchase their crops.
“A total of 4.5 tonnes of seed were distributed in 1976
and 25 tonnes in 1977. The RDO, however, did not concern
itself with the sale of the product, and in 1977 found that
the farmers had produced about 200 tonnes, most of which
RDO could not purchase. The experiment was, of course, a
disaster, and the following year soybean production dropped
dramatically.
“Farmers have no particular objections to soybean, since
it presents no basic agronomic problems, but marketing is a
major problem.”
Future Development: “Recent events provide some hope
for soybean production. A pilot soybean milk manufacturing
unit with a capacity of 200 liters/hour should be operational
by 1984. A factory with much greater capacity will be built if
the fi rst plant is successful.
“In addition, a hydroponic center is now operational.