History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

Physical properties and amino acid composition. J. of
Biological Chemistry 240(3):1125-30. March. [32 ref]
• Summary: Among the proteolytic enzymes, the amino acid
sequences of chymotrypsin and of trypsin are now known.
Partial sequences around the reactive serine residue have
been reported for one strain of subtilisin.
We have undertaken a study of the subtilisin from
Bacillus subtilis [the natto bacterium] strain N’ (5).’
Although certain features of this enzyme have already been
described, we have undertaken a more complete study prior
to an investigation of its amino acid sequence.
Note: This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Jan. 2012) that mentions the enzyme “subtilisin” in
connection with natto. It is an alkaline proteolytic enzyme.
Address: Univ. of Utah College of Medicine, Salt Lake City,
Utah; Univ. of California Medical Center, Los Angeles 24,
California.
484. Hesseltine, C.W. 1965. A millennium of fungi, food,
and fermentation. Mycologia 57(2):149-97. March/April. [38
ref]
• Summary: A landmark, widely cited work on indigenous
fermented foods. Interestingly, it makes no mention of
amazake, or kanjang (Korean soy sauce). Contents: Tempeh.
Ragi. Sufu (describes process, mentions pehtzes and the
mold Actinomucor elegans NRRL 3104).
Color photos (sent by Dr. Clifford Hesseltine) show:
(1) Luxuriant growth of Actinomucor elegans mold on some
skewered cubes of tofu in an incubator; on the top row are
uninoculated cubes. (2) Cubes of sufu in their fi nal form after
removal from brine.
Thamnidium (meat tenderizer and fl avor enhancer from
the mold Thamnidium elegans). Miso. Shoyu (incl. tamari.
“In China, shoyu is more of the tamari type, that is, more
soybeans are used and less wheat,...”). Tea fungus. Ang-Kak
(p. 179-81). Advantages of fermenting foods. The future of
food fermentations.
The glossary gives brief descriptions of aga-koji,
akakoji, amylo process, anchu, angkak, angkhak, ang-quac,
anka, ankak, arack, arak, arrack, atsumandie, awamori,
bagoong, bakhar, beni-koji, benikoji, braga, brem, busa,
chao, ch’au yau (Chinese name for shoyu), chee-fan (a type
of Chinese cheese or sufu), chiang (Chinese equivalent
of miso), chicha, Chinese cheese (sufu), Chinese red rice
(ang-kak), chiu-chu (Chinese yeast), chiu-niang (Chinese
term for koji), chou [ch’ü] (Chinese equivalent of koji),
dahi, dawadawa (made from African locust bean–Parkia
fi licoidea; soy is not mentioned), dhokla, dosai, fermentation
of citron, fermented fi sh, fermentation of maize, fermented
minchin (wheat gluten), fermented soybeans (“a Chinese
food prepared from small black soybeans.” See A.K. Smith
1961 [fermented black soybeans]), fi sh paste, fi sh sauce, fi sh
soy, fu-yu, fu-yue, fuyu (see sufu [fermented tofu] for all
3), ginger beer plant, grib, hamanatto, hon-fan [fermented
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 169
tofu], hongo, hung-chu, idli, injera, jamin-bang, java yeast,
jotkal, kaffi r beer, kanji, katsuobushi, katyk, kefi r, ketjap,
kimchi, kishk, kisselo mleko, koji, kombucha (tea fungus
fermentation), kome-miso, kuban, kumiss, kumys, kushik,
kushuk, kvass, kwass, kyoku-shi, lao-chao, leben, lebeny,
levain of khasia, levain of sikkin, lontjom (ontjom), magou,
mahewu, maize fermentation of the maoris, mazun, medusen
tee, meen, meitauza, meju (fermented soybeans of Korea),
mén, mien (Chinese yeast), mirin, mish, miso, moromi,
mugi miso, murcha, nappi, nata, natto, ngapi, nuoc-mam,
nukamiso, ontjom, patis, paw tsay, peh-khak, pehtze,
peujeum, peyem, poi, prahoc, pulque, raggi, ragi, ranu, red
pepper sauce, red rice, red sufu, sajur asin, saraimandie,
sekihan, shiro koji, shottsuru, shoyou, sho-yu, shoyu, soja
japonais (shoyu), sonti (a rice beer wine of India), South
African fermented corn, soy, soybean cheese [fermented
tofu], soy sauce, sufu, su fu [both fermented tofu], sweet
fl our paste, taette, tahuli, tahuri [both “Philippine fermented
soybean curd”], takuwan, tamari, tane koji, tao-cho [taotjo],
taokoan [pressed or fi rm tofu, not fermented], tao dji (see
taotjo {sic}), tao-si ([fermented black soybeans]; see
Handbook of Philippine Agriculture. 1939. p. 132-43), taotjung,
tao-yu, taotjo, tapej, tape ketan, tape ketella, tarhana,
tea beer, tea cider, tea fungus, teekwass, teeschwamm, tempe,
tempeh, tempeh bongkrek, tempeh kedelee, thamnidium,
thumba, tibi, tien mien chang [chiang], tojo, tokua, torani,
tosufu, toyo, trassi, tsue fan, tuwak, uri, u-t-iat, wunder pilz,
yen-tsai.
Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011)
that mentions Actinomucor elegans in connection with sufu
[fermented tofu]. In 1966 Hesseltine describes it as the best
mold for use in making this fermented food.
Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms “fuyu” or “fu-yue” or
“chao” to refer to fermented tofu.
Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (July 2000)
that mentions “mugi miso”–a type of miso made with barley
koji. By the mid- to late-1960s, macrobiotic companies in the
USA were importing barley miso from Japan and labeling it
“Mugi Miso.”
Photos show: (0) Clifford W. Hesseltine (portrait). (1-3)
Rhizopus oligosporus mold, used to make tempeh (3 views).
(4) Skewered cubes of sufu in an incubator, with one skewer
of uninoculated tofu cubes and three rows of tofu inoculated
with Actinomucor elegans showing luxuriant growth of
mold. (5) Cubes of Chinese cheese [fermented tofu] removed
from brine. (6) Dilution plate of tane koji showing different
types of Aspergillus oryzae. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois.
485. De, Sasanka S. 1965. The present state of protein-rich
food development in Asia and the Far East. J. of Nutrition
and Dietetics (India) 2(3):166-76. July. [23 ref]
• Summary: Gives an excellent account of soymilk
production in Asia during the mid-1960s and a brief history