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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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soluble organic matter, 21.95, 41.55. Carbohydrates <strong>of</strong> soy<br />

beans are mainly galactans, not much starch being present.<br />

Note: This is one <strong>of</strong> the key early research articles in<br />

underst<strong>and</strong>ing Bacillus natto, the natto bacterium.<br />

Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (July 1998) that mentions polypeptides in connection<br />

with soybeans. Address: Japan.<br />

108. Friedenwald, Julius; Ruhräh, John. 1913. Diet in health<br />

<strong>and</strong> disease. 4th ed. Thoroughly revised <strong>and</strong> enlarged.<br />

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: W.B. Saunders Co. 857 p. Illust.<br />

24 cm. [4 soy ref]<br />

• Summary: The section titled “The soy bean” (p. 124-26)<br />

states: “This bean (glycine hispida), sometimes called the<br />

soja bean, is an annual leguminous plant extensively used<br />

as a food in China <strong>and</strong> Japan. Until recently it has been<br />

regarded as a botanical curiosity in the Occident. It has<br />

recently been extensively used in America as a forage crop<br />

<strong>and</strong> to improve the soil if plowed under... There are a large<br />

number <strong>of</strong> different varieties, which vary in size, shape,<br />

color, <strong>and</strong> length <strong>of</strong> time they take to mature. Some are<br />

grown exclusively for the oil they contain, <strong>and</strong> it is used for<br />

culinary, illuminating, <strong>and</strong> lubricating purposes. The lightcolored<br />

beans are eaten in soups, <strong>and</strong> the pods are sometimes<br />

picked green, boiled, <strong>and</strong> served cold with a sprinkling <strong>of</strong><br />

soy sauce. The green varieties are <strong>of</strong>ten pickled in brine<br />

<strong>and</strong> eaten moist or dried with meals as appetizers; the same<br />

varieties are <strong>of</strong>ten sprouted, scalded, <strong>and</strong> served with meals<br />

in winter as a green vegetable. The bean forms the basis <strong>of</strong><br />

the so-called soy sauces, used as a condiment all over the<br />

world. The Oriental races most frequently eat the bean, in<br />

more or less cheesy-like foods, which are prepared from it.<br />

The most common <strong>of</strong> these are natto, t<strong>of</strong>u, miso, yuba, <strong>and</strong><br />

shoyu. <strong>Natto</strong> is a sort <strong>of</strong> bean cheese made by boiling the<br />

beans until they become s<strong>of</strong>t <strong>and</strong> then placing the resulting<br />

mass in a warm cellar where it ferments. T<strong>of</strong>u is made by<br />

soaking the beans in water, crushing between millstones, <strong>and</strong><br />

boiling in about three times their bulk <strong>of</strong> water. The protein<br />

is precipitated <strong>and</strong> the resulting cheese eaten. The white<br />

milky liquid <strong>of</strong> the above has nearly the composition <strong>of</strong><br />

cows’ milk, <strong>and</strong> tastes something like malt. It may be used in<br />

infant feeding to advantage (see same).<br />

“Americans may eat the beans in numerous ways<br />

described under the head <strong>of</strong> soy bean cookery in the recipes<br />

at the end <strong>of</strong> this book. The bean is <strong>of</strong> particular value in<br />

diabetic diets (see same). It may be used to increase the<br />

protein <strong>of</strong> the diet.<br />

There are variations in the composition <strong>of</strong> the different<br />

varieties.” A table shows the chemical composition <strong>of</strong> yellow<br />

soy beans grown in the USA, both as is <strong>and</strong> calculated on<br />

a water-free basis. “The Cereo Company <strong>of</strong> Tappan, New<br />

York, have made a soy bean fl our which is useful.” <strong>Its</strong><br />

composition is given. “The percentage <strong>of</strong> protein in this fl our<br />

is almost one-third greater than the percentage <strong>of</strong> protein<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 70<br />

in the whole beans. This is caused by removing the coarse<br />

fi brous hulls which contain little protein.<br />

“Vegetable food <strong>of</strong> such composition certainly is<br />

remarkable when compared with round beef, medium”–<br />

whose composition is given.<br />

Soy fl our can be used as a gruel, in broths, <strong>and</strong> in<br />

making biscuits. A table (p. 126) shows the “Composition <strong>of</strong><br />

fresh <strong>and</strong> dried legumes (incl. soy beans, cow peas, chickpeas,<br />

peanuts) with that <strong>of</strong> other foods” (Based on Abel,<br />

Farmers’ Bulletin No. 121 [1900, p. 17]).<br />

The section on “vegetarianism” (p. 130-31) is the same<br />

as that in the 1909 edition (p. 113-14).<br />

In the chapter on “Infant feeding,” the section on “Other<br />

food for infants” has a subsection on “The soy bean” (p. 297-<br />

98) which begins: “In certain conditions the soy bean... is<br />

<strong>of</strong> great value. In cases when milk is badly borne, in certain<br />

forms <strong>of</strong> intestinal disorders, in diarrhea, <strong>and</strong> especially<br />

in the convalescence after diarrhea, in certain cases <strong>of</strong><br />

marasmus <strong>and</strong> in malnutrition, the soy bean fl our, properly<br />

used, is <strong>of</strong> great value. Each ounce contains 13 grams protein<br />

<strong>and</strong> 120 calories.” A table shows the composition when<br />

mixed with various amounts <strong>of</strong> water. Recipes for making<br />

gruels are given.<br />

In the chapter on “Diet in disease,” in the section titled<br />

“Diseases in which diet is a primary factor,” is a subsection<br />

on “The soy bean” (p. 592) states: “The bean contains about<br />

8 per cent. <strong>of</strong> sugar <strong>and</strong> no starch, <strong>and</strong> furnishes a large<br />

amount <strong>of</strong> available protein <strong>and</strong> fat.” “A patient on a strict<br />

diabetic diet, who is excreting a certain amount <strong>of</strong> sugar, will<br />

excrete less sugar when the soy bean is added to the diet. It<br />

seems to be <strong>of</strong> particular value in severe cases. In addition<br />

to this action, it is a very valuable food, both on account <strong>of</strong><br />

its nutritious properties <strong>and</strong> owing to the fact that it may be<br />

prepared in a number <strong>of</strong> different ways, <strong>and</strong> so serves to vary<br />

the diet.”<br />

In the section on “Diabetic Foods” (p. 601-02) is based<br />

on Winton (1906) <strong>and</strong> contains the same information,<br />

including that about The Health Food Company <strong>of</strong> New<br />

York.<br />

In the chapter on “Recipes” is a section on “Bread” (p.<br />

740-41) which includes whole-wheat bread, zwieback, <strong>and</strong><br />

bran muffi ns for constipation. The same chapter has a section<br />

on “Soy bean cookery” (p. 766-69) with the following<br />

recipes: Introduction, gruels, broths, muffi ns, nut-cakes, soy<br />

bean cakes, breakfast food (like oatmeal), pancakes, soy<br />

bean cheese (“In Seattle, Washington, <strong>and</strong> other places in<br />

the West we are informed that t<strong>of</strong>u is made by the Japanese<br />

<strong>and</strong> sold to the Oriental residents”). G<strong>of</strong>f (1911) <strong>of</strong>fers the<br />

following: Grilled soy bean [dry roasted soynuts], [whole]<br />

soy beans with butter, soy beans au gras (fried with onions<br />

<strong>and</strong> fat), bread or cakes <strong>of</strong> soy beans.<br />

Note: Julius Friedenwald lived 1866-1941. John Ruräh<br />

lived 1872-1925. Address: 1. Pr<strong>of</strong>. <strong>of</strong> Gastro-Enterology; 2.<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>. <strong>of</strong> Diseases <strong>of</strong> Children. Both: College <strong>of</strong> Physicians

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