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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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y prefecture in the Tables <strong>of</strong> National Consumption, we fi nd<br />

that in 1968 the average amount per capita spent that year on<br />

natto was highest in Sendai at 967 yen, followed by others<br />

such as Sapporo 719 yen, Fukushima 915 yen, Mito 871 yen,<br />

Tokyo 489 yen, Nagoya 177 yen, Kyoto 183 yen, Osaka 98<br />

yen, Hiroshima 139 yen, Matsue 144 yen, Matsuyama 78<br />

yen, <strong>and</strong> Fukuoka [the furthest south, in northern Kyushu]<br />

217 yen, the national average being 343 yen. While there<br />

exist many large differences between the various in money<br />

spent, we can see clearly that the consumption <strong>of</strong> natto has<br />

spread nationwide.<br />

8.1.2 <strong>Natto</strong> bacteria <strong>and</strong> their characteristics: Although<br />

natto has a history <strong>of</strong> some 1,000 years, the history <strong>of</strong><br />

bacteriological research on the bacteria that produce natto<br />

amounts to less than 100 years. The oldest bacteriological<br />

study on natto-producing bacteria in Japan is thought to be<br />

Yabe’s report in the 15th issue <strong>of</strong> the Journal <strong>of</strong> the Japanese<br />

Chemists’ Society (1895) that he had succeeded in isolating<br />

several strains <strong>of</strong> bacteria from natto.<br />

From that time on, much research was carried out on<br />

natto bacteria, but it was not until 1906 that Sawamura<br />

successfully isolated from those natto bacteria a bacterium<br />

which, when recultured on cooked soybeans, would<br />

consistently produce the characteristic sticky fi laments <strong>and</strong><br />

fl avor <strong>of</strong> natto. Upon researching the morphological <strong>and</strong><br />

propagative characteristics as well as the physiological<br />

makeup <strong>of</strong> this bacterium, he found it to be very similar to<br />

Bacillus mesentericus <strong>and</strong> named the new strain Bacillus<br />

natto Sawamura. This research ascertained that natto is<br />

produced solely by the fermenting action <strong>of</strong> the natto<br />

bacteria. The bacteriological characteristics <strong>of</strong> this strain are<br />

shown in Table 8.1.<br />

However in the 6th edition (1948) <strong>of</strong> Bergey’s Manual <strong>of</strong><br />

Determinative Bacteriology recognized the world over as the<br />

authoritative classifi cation <strong>of</strong> bacteria, B. natto Sawamura is<br />

listed under B. sublitis, whereas the 7th edition fails to list<br />

it at all. In other words, as far as Bergey’s classifi cation is<br />

concerned a sub-strain <strong>of</strong> B. subtilis is responsible for natto<br />

fermentation. Be that as it may, culturing any <strong>of</strong> the bacteria<br />

which closely resemble B. natto, such as B. subtilis, B.<br />

cereus, B. megaterium, or B. mycoides, on cooked beans fails<br />

to produce a product <strong>of</strong> natto’s sticky fi laments <strong>and</strong> fl avor.<br />

The choice <strong>of</strong> strains to be actually used in producing<br />

natto is carried out by testing which successfully produce a<br />

natto with characteristic fi laments <strong>and</strong> fragrance. Moreover,<br />

common to all natto bacteria chosen in this way are found to<br />

be certain marked differences from other B. subtilis strains.<br />

For example, while natto bacteria can neither germinate nor<br />

grow without biotin, other strains <strong>of</strong> B. subtilis can. Further,<br />

while a bacteriophage that dissolves natto bacteria has been<br />

discovered, this bacteriophage has no effect on other strains.<br />

Judging from evidence such as this even if natto bacteria<br />

were to be classifi ed under B. subtilis, for all practical<br />

purposes they are clearly a bacterial group having special<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 196<br />

characteristics distinct from other B. subtilis strains.<br />

8.1.3 <strong>Natto</strong> bacteria growth <strong>and</strong> soybean composition:<br />

<strong>Natto</strong> bacteria grow well on cooked soybeans <strong>of</strong> course, but<br />

they also grow well on other beans, <strong>and</strong> other foodstuffs <strong>of</strong><br />

plant origin such as grains. They can even grow on animal<br />

foodstuffs such as meat, fi sh, <strong>and</strong> dairy products. However,<br />

growth on plant protein is greater, as is the production <strong>of</strong><br />

sticky fi laments. As exhaustive research has been carried out<br />

on the composition <strong>of</strong> nutrients needed for the germination<br />

<strong>and</strong> growth <strong>of</strong> natto bacteria, <strong>and</strong> those nutritional<br />

requirements are now clear. The result was that natto bacteria<br />

use sugars, particularly dextrose, sucrose, glucose, etc. as<br />

sources <strong>of</strong> carbon, <strong>and</strong> that sucrose was necessary not only<br />

for bacterial growth, but also for the production <strong>of</strong> the sticky<br />

fi laments. Soybeans are approximately 20% <strong>of</strong> carbohydrate<br />

in composition, some 30% <strong>of</strong> that being sucrose, enough for<br />

the growth <strong>of</strong> natto bacteria.<br />

Protein, that is to say amino acids, are used as nitrogen<br />

sources. Of these amino acids, natto bacteria fi nd glutamic<br />

acid, arginine, aspartic acid, proline, etc. easy to utilize<br />

whereas threonine, tryptophane, phenylalanine, methionine,<br />

etc. are comparatively diffi cult. However <strong>of</strong> the amino acids<br />

composing the soybean’s protein work better as a nitrogen<br />

source does a culture medium <strong>of</strong> milk casein.<br />

In regard to vitamins, natto bacteria require biotin, any<br />

culture media lacking in biotin being incapable <strong>of</strong> causing<br />

spore germination or growth <strong>of</strong> the nutrient cell (eiyo saibo).<br />

Though certain bacteria classifi ed as belonging to the same<br />

genus, such as B. subtilis, B. megaterium, <strong>and</strong> B. cereus, do<br />

not require biotin, besides B. natto such other members <strong>of</strong><br />

the Bacillus family such as B. mycoides, B. pumilus, <strong>and</strong> B.<br />

coagulans do not require biotin, while the absolute minimum<br />

density <strong>of</strong> biotin necessary for natto bacteria growth is<br />

0.18%, complete growth requires at least 18%. Other<br />

vitamins particularly the B group, are useful in creating a<br />

suitable growing medium for natto bacteria, <strong>and</strong> as shown<br />

in Table 8.2, soybeans contain biotin suffi cient not only for<br />

the germination <strong>of</strong> natto bacteria spores, but also for the<br />

propagation <strong>of</strong> the nutrient cell, thus eliminating any need for<br />

adding biotin in the production <strong>of</strong> natto.<br />

8.1.4 <strong>Natto</strong> bacteria growth <strong>and</strong> environment: Beyond<br />

a doubt the single most important thing in the production<br />

<strong>of</strong> natto is to allow the natto bacteria to grow fully on the<br />

cooked soybeans, however in order to achieve this, it is<br />

also important to know what environmental conditions are<br />

most conductive to the germination <strong>and</strong> propagation <strong>of</strong> natto<br />

bacteria. In the production <strong>of</strong> natto, the natto bacteria used<br />

are in the forms <strong>of</strong> spores, either in a liquid cells (eiyo saibo)<br />

<strong>and</strong> fi nally proceed into cell division.<br />

The optimum temperature for natto bacteria spore<br />

germination is approximately 40ºC, most spores having<br />

germinated <strong>and</strong> begun propagation within 2 hours on<br />

a peptone-glucose culture medium, though at 50ºC the<br />

germination is rather slow, <strong>and</strong> at 55ºC <strong>and</strong> above no

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