History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

Saturday, March 25–Unicurd Food Company Pte. Ltd.
(Mr. Goh gave a tour of his facility and discussed his plans
for a new plant in late 1995). Yam Thye & Co. (Warehouse).
Encore Ltd.: Sylvia B. Hollenstein, managing director.
This company, based in Switzerland, uses Swiss technology
to produce soy yogurts, chocolates, and noodles in
Switzerland from Chinese soybeans–mostly for the taste.
The products are shipped from Switzerland to the company’s
3 retail stores in East Asia; they plan to expand to 10 retail
stores by the end of 1995.
Appendixes A through J, issued as a separate document,
contain extensive and detailed information and some
published documents related to the technical mission.
Address: P.O. Box 1199, Chatham, ONT N7M 5L8, Canada.
Phone: 519-352-7730.
1504. Kawakami, Kozo. 1995. Tsurezure Nihon shokumotsushi:
Dai 3 kan [Leisurely history of Japanese foods. Vol. 3].
Tokyo: Tokyo Bijutsu. 195 + 3 p. Illust. Index. 21 cm. [Jap]
• Summary: As the title implies, the author is writing about
50 foods he fi nds particularly interesting.
Entries containing an asterisk (*) are about or mention
soy. About Mr. Kawakami (sensei) by TANAKA Seiichi.
Dengaku tofu * (p. 1+). History of dengaku tofu * (p. 3+).
Yuba * (p. 8+). Summary of “History of Tofu” * (p. 13+).
Abura-age of tofu (Deep-fried tofu pouches) * (p. 17+).
Itohiki natto * (p. 21+). Tororo (Grated tororo imo–glutinous
yam–is often served atop dishes such as soba = buckwheat
noodles) (p. 24+).
Oroshi daikon (Finely grated juicy raw daikon = Giant
Japanese white radish) (p. 30+). Oroshi-gane (Grater) (p.
33+). Mentori daikon (One method of cutting the daikon
root to keep the shape during the simmering) (p. 37+). Owari
daikon and miyashige daikon (Names of daikon varieties) (p.
39+). Gobo (Burdock root) (p. 43+). Sasagaki gobo (burdock
root) and sasagaki daikon (Sasagaki is a special shaving/
cutting method. End result: the cut vegetables look like
bamboo leaves) (p. 48+). Yatara-zuke (A kind of pickles) *
(p. 52+). Kaku-ae (p. 55+). Asa-zuke (pickled asa) (p. 57+).
Takuan-zuke (Pickled radish) (p. 62+). Osaka-zuke (p. 67+).
Fu, ki-bu, and shofu / sho-fu (Types of baked wheat
gluten) (p. 70+). History of the development of fu (Part 1)
(p. 76+). History of the development of fu (Part 2). Kanso-fu
(dried) and Kaki-fu (Broiled) (p. 81+). Awase-fu and Yose-fu
* (p. 86+; tofu is mentioned). Chirimen-fu (p. 88+). Tosa-fu
(p. 91+). Shian-fu * (p. 94+; tofu is mentioned). Yamakawafu
and Chiyo-fu (p. 97+).
Azuki beans and Aka (red) azuki beans (p. 101+).
Dainagon azuki (a special variety of azuki beans) (p. 106+).
Azuki no suri-jiru (Soup of pureed azuki) (p. 109+).
Hishio–the other name is shoyu no mi (Moromi mash
& shoyu presscake) * (p. 115+). Suri-Hishio (ground hishio)
* (p. 121+). Ume-bisho and Yubi-hishio * (p. 125+). Hishio
and shishi-bishio * (p. 130+) Azuki Kai (Azuki porridge),
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HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 466
Aka-kai (Porridge), Uncho-juku (Porridge) (p. 133+) Unzokai
(Porridge) and Unzo (p. 138+). Kowaii and Seki-han
(Rice recipes; Sekihan is red azuki rice) (p. 141+). History of
shiso (Shiso leaves are translated as “Beefsteak leaves”) (p.
148+).
Asazuki (p. 150+). History of Karashi and Keshi (p.
153+). What is Araragi? ÿ(p. 158+). Tade / Tadé (p. 163+).
Itachi hajikami and Inu sansho (p. 167+). History of sansho
(Sansho seeds are one type of spice) (p. 170+) Hajikami and
Shoga (Ginger) (p. 174+). History of myoga (A Japanese
leafy plant with a strong fl avor that is often used for a
topping for Hiyayakko Tofu) (p. 178+). Myoga-take (p.
181+).
Sai??? Seki (Chinese Name) and Niragi * (p. 184+).
Kawakami sensei and the Rikagagu Kenkyujo (Note:
Rikagaku means physics and chemistry), by MATSUSHITA
Sachiko, Honorary Professor of Chiba University (p. 190+).
96 Years of my father’s life by Kozo Kawakami’s eldest
son (Tadashi? / Tsutomu?) (p. 192+). My father, Kozo
Kawakami,–A view from his 2nd son (p. 194+).
A photo (p. 191) shows the members of the Rikagaku
Kenkyujo seated together on tatami mats in a room. A
separate outline sketch and legend shows the name of each
member.
The section titled “Kawakami sensei and the Rikagaku
Kenkyujo,” by Prof. Matshita states (p. 190): I was able
to receive his guidance for 20 years ever since I became
a member of the Ryôrisho Genten Kenkyu Kai, a study
group that started in 1994. They met at Keio University’s
old wooden classroom. These people studied old culinary
documents together. I listened to his lecture on the Ryôri
Monogatari. I could not do my present work that involves
Edo period culinary literature without his infl uence.
I also saw him at the members meeting, visited
his home, listened to his talks, and took a look at his
sketchbooks on many occasions. On those occasions, he
enjoyed talking about his experience at Riken (Rikagaku
Kenkyusho) before the war and his teacher Dr. SUZUKI
Umetaro. His work on the history of Japanese Food History
got started after he retired. His work before his retirement
was on agricultural chemistry (nogei-kagaku). He worked
mostly on Vitamin A at Dr. Umetaro SUZUKI’s Lab. in
Rikagaku Kenkyusho until he moved to Manshu Kokuritsu
Tairiku Gakuin in 1937. He received his PhD in Agriculture.
I fi rst met him at a funeral of the late TSUJI Michiyo
sensei in June 1989 held at Enmeiji Temple in Urawa. The
late TSUJIMURA Michiyo sensei was in the same lab as
Kawakami sensei.
The photo on the next page shows the golden age of
Riken group who worked under Dr. Suzuki. I made a copy
of one of the 3 photos from late TSUJIMURA Michiyo
Sensei’s album. He didn’t have any photos from our days in
Manchuria, so I was very happy and drew the picture below.
The man in the center in the dark suit is Kawakami sensei.