The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Chapter 17 – Mold Frames and Permanent Frames 193
Notches for keel, stringers and chines if appropriate Plywood gusset
2" X 4"
Figure 17-5 A typical mold frame with legs and spall installed and reference lines marked.
<strong>The</strong> fasteners become extraneous as soon as the epoxy
cures, but we recommend using them nevertheless to
speed things up. If you use fasteners, you can put
together the two halves of a mold frame, move the unit
out of the way, and immediately go on to the next pair
of mold halves. Without fasteners, the assembly will be
fairly fragile until the epoxy sets up. Handle all mold
frames gently until they have cured.
Note that if you build mold frames in the way we have
described, you may have to destroy them to get them
out of the finished hull. When stringers and sheer
clamps are notched into mold frames and covered with
layers of planking or veneer, the frames can be difficult
to remove. If you are building a one-off boat, you
Waterline marks for reference
Legs – joined edge fastened
to control face of mold
Centerline marks on spall and mold at keel
Spall – joined on one edge
and positioned on waterline
Sheer witness marks placed above actual sheer
a set distance to allow for clamp notches
Notched for
sheer clamp
Figure 17-6 Bonding gussets to permanent frames.
Straight edge