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The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Gouge<strong>on</strong></str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Brothers</str<strong>on</strong>g> On <strong>Boat</strong> C<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong> 361<br />

Figure A-5 Stir in small handfuls of filler until the desired<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sistency is reached.<br />

Additives<br />

Although additives are blended with mixed epoxy<br />

in the same two-step process as fillers, they are not<br />

designed to thicken the epoxy. Refer to the Additive<br />

descripti<strong>on</strong>s in Chapter 4 and follow the mixing<br />

instructi<strong>on</strong>s <strong>on</strong> the individual additive c<strong>on</strong>tainers.<br />

Surface Preparati<strong>on</strong><br />

Whether you are b<strong>on</strong>ding, fairing, or applying fabrics,<br />

the success of the applicati<strong>on</strong> depends not <strong>on</strong>ly <strong>on</strong> the<br />

strength of the epoxy, but also <strong>on</strong> how well the epoxy<br />

adheres to the surface to which it is being applied.<br />

Unless you are b<strong>on</strong>ding to partially cured epoxy, the<br />

strength of the b<strong>on</strong>d relies <strong>on</strong> the epoxy’s ability to<br />

mechanically “key” into the surface. That is why the<br />

following three steps of surface preparati<strong>on</strong> are a<br />

critical part of any sec<strong>on</strong>dary b<strong>on</strong>ding operati<strong>on</strong>.<br />

For good adhesi<strong>on</strong>, b<strong>on</strong>ding surfaces should be<br />

Clean—B<strong>on</strong>ding surfaces must be free of any c<strong>on</strong>taminants<br />

such as grease, oil, wax, or mold release. Clean<br />

c<strong>on</strong>taminated surfaces with lacquer thinner, acet<strong>on</strong>e,<br />

or other appropriate solvent (Figure A-6). Wipe the<br />

surface with paper towels before the solvent dries.<br />

Clean surfaces before sanding to avoid sanding the<br />

Figure A-6 Clean the surface. Use an appropriate solvent as<br />

necessary to remove c<strong>on</strong>taminants.<br />

Figure A-7 Dry the surface. Allow wet surfaces to dry<br />

thoroughly or use heat or a fan to speed drying.<br />

c<strong>on</strong>taminant into the surface. Follow all safety<br />

precauti<strong>on</strong>s when working with solvents.<br />

Dry—All b<strong>on</strong>ding surfaces must be as dry as possible<br />

for good adhesi<strong>on</strong>. If necessary, accelerate drying by<br />

warming the b<strong>on</strong>ding surface with a hot air gun, hair<br />

dryer, or heat lamp (Figure A-7). Use fans to move<br />

the air in c<strong>on</strong>fined or enclosed spaces. Watch for<br />

c<strong>on</strong>densati<strong>on</strong> when working outdoors or whenever<br />

the temperature of the work envir<strong>on</strong>ment changes.<br />

Sanded—Sand smooth, n<strong>on</strong>-porous surfaces—<br />

thoroughly abrade the surface (Figure A-8). 80-grit<br />

aluminum oxide paper will provide a good texture<br />

for the epoxy to “key” into. Be sure the surface to<br />

be b<strong>on</strong>ded is solid. Remove any flaking, chalking,<br />

blistering, or old coating before sanding. Remove<br />

all dust after sanding.<br />

Special preparati<strong>on</strong> for various materials<br />

Cured epoxy—Amine blush can appear as a wax-like<br />

film <strong>on</strong> cured epoxy surfaces. It is a byproduct of the<br />

curing process and may be more noticeable in cool,<br />

moist c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s. Amine blush can clog sandpaper and<br />

inhibit subsequent b<strong>on</strong>ding, but it is water soluble and<br />

can easily be removed. It’s a good idea to assume it has<br />

formed <strong>on</strong> any cured epoxy surface.<br />

Figure A-8 Sand n<strong>on</strong>-porous surfaces. Provide a texture for<br />

the epoxy to key into.

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