The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Chapter 26 – Interior Construction 333
countertops and tables with a light-colored plastic
laminate (easily bonded to wood with WEST SYSTEM
epoxy) results in a durable, easily maintained working
surface. Solid surface laminates like Wilsonart and
Corian can also be glued to plywood with WEST
SYSTEM epoxy. Just be sure to abrade the bond side with
80-grit sandpaper prior to gluing in place.
Painting the under-deck ceiling and bulkheads with
light colors provides good light reflection. Choosing
light-colored materials for cushions and curtains also
brightens an interior.
Generally, it is thought that a varnished natural surface
requires a lot of extra time, but many professional
builders believe that the naturally finished interior is
more attractive for the same amount of work than the
painted interior. A solid color, especially with high-gloss
paint, will magnify imperfections in the surface. <strong>The</strong>
same small imperfections in a varnished surface are
camouflaged by the natural wood grain.
As we have already discussed, with our method of
construction, nowhere is prefinishing more important
than on interior items. It’s the same old story: coating
Figure 26-27 Prefinished interior on an IOR 1 ⁄2 ton racer.
and sanding of intricate parts is much more efficiently
done outside the boat at a comfortable bench rather
than inside in cramped conditions. Not only are fewer
labor hours needed, but a much better finishing job is
possible.
To install the individual interior parts, carefully
machine, assemble, and hold them in position until all
epoxy cures. Be careful to remove any excess epoxy
from joints during assembly, while it is still liquid or
semi-solid, to prevent a lot of difficult sanding and
grinding later on. Fillets are normally installed during
assembly. Try to make yours as neat and clean as
possible, removing all excess material and smoothing
fillets with a final pass of a filleting stick. If you haven’t
had a lot of experience with fillets, practice on some
corner joints to improve your craftsmanship. To modify
fillet color to match the interior of the hull, experiment
with combinations of low-density filler and 405
Filleting Blend. You can further adjust fillet color by
adding pigment or tempera paint to the epoxy.
When the fillets are fully cured, sand them to remove
shine and recoat with epoxy. At the same time, fill any
staple holes or other depressions. A 406/epoxy mixture
makes the best filler for small holes in a natural finish
and can be toned for color by adding small amounts of
sanding dust from the wood species you are attempting
to match. <strong>The</strong> only caution is that this material is
extremely hard and difficult to sand when cured, so
carefully clean away all excess.
When you have completed the interior and installed the
trim, inspect all surfaces in preparation for varnishing
or painting. Sand the coated fillets as well as any areas
which you have filled or coated, such as staple holes,
dings, or scratches. <strong>The</strong>re may be areas in the interior
where you would find it difficult to use precoated parts
because of their unusual shapes. You will need to coat
and sand these items when completed, using the
standard coating sequence. <strong>The</strong> degree of fineness you
choose in your interior sanding is a matter of taste.
Professionally, for a varnish base, we go down to 220-grit
paper when hand sanding (either wet or dry). With
machine sanding, we use 150-grit paper (and sometimes
even 120-grit paper). For solid colors to look good,
especially high-gloss urethane, finer sanding may be
needed.