The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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262 Hull Construction Methods You can do the second lamination with veneers instead of plywood with no difficulties. <strong>The</strong> general instability of the veneers is no longer a problem due to the fact that you now have a reasonable mold surface to staple to. Begin the second lamination in normal fashion by placing the master veneer in the central area of the hull at whatever diagonal angle you desire. Position succeeding layers of veneer on either side of this master, using either the hand or mechanical spiling system for fitting the edges. <strong>The</strong> only thing that is different from standard procedure is the stapling method used to bond this second lamination to the first lamination. <strong>The</strong> areas where the stringers and frames are supporting the first lamination are the only really solid points on the mold surface and you need to utilize them well when bonding the second lamination to the first. After you have positioned the veneer and attached it at the sheer clamp, keel, stem, transom, and all other solid points, then deal with areas between these members. To apply adequate pressure to these spots, use staples that are short enough so they don’t penetrate the interior and leave holes which will need filling. If your first lamination was 5 ⁄32" (4mm) plywood and your second layer is 1 ⁄8" (3mm) veneer, you can successfully use 1 ⁄4" (6mm) long wide-crown staples to achieve reasonable pressure without stapling into the interior. Because the springiness of the mold will not permit countersinking, all of these in-between staples will have to be removed. Use scrap veneer or plastic stapling strips to save time. If your staples are too long and break through the inner surface, adjust the depth of penetration by using thicker stapling strip material or by doubling standard plastic banding. <strong>The</strong> best way to insert shorter staples in springy areas is to hold the staple gun with firmer-than-normal pressure on the veneer surface. <strong>The</strong> extra pressure helps the staple sink itself to the crown for maximum clamping between the two layers. Remember that you are applying the pressure and all the staple does is maintain it. If you hold the staple gun too lightly, the staples will not reach proper depth and will not have adequate holding power. If the stringers are relatively close and there is a fair amount of curve in the hull surface, you may need very few staples between them because the veneers themselves will develop sufficient bonding pressure. You can generally tell whether a veneer is lying tight enough for good bonding by pressing it with your fingers in any suspect area during the laminating process. Any gaps between the veneers will move in and out with light finger pressure. Gaps are also likely to make a slight noise as the excess epoxy moves around. When in doubt, staple; no boat ever suffered from too many staples, but there have been a few which suffered from voids. Depending upon the spacing of the stringers, we usually apply two to three short staples along all of the edges of the veneers where they meet between the stringers. <strong>The</strong>se are usually the last staples applied in the lamination; this gives excess epoxy a chance to work its way out of the center areas of the veneer toward the edges before we apply pressure at this edge point. Sometimes there may be a wild edge or a warp in the veneer that fails to come down in position with the limited pressure that a short staple can apply. Solve this problem by having someone temporarily hold a small wood block on the interior side of the two laminations so that you can shoot a long staple through the first and second laminations and draw them together tight with the temporary block. Checking the Second Layer for Voids After the epoxy has cured and you have removed the wide-crown staples, make a thorough check of the second lamination to detect any voids that may have developed. To do this, lightly move your hand over the hull surface and listen for a different sound than is usual for most of the surface. An area of veneer that is not well bonded to that beneath it will vibrate at a different frequency, producing a definite, higher pitched sound than that produced by veneers which are well bonded. Mark these suspect areas on the hull. <strong>The</strong>re are two ways to fill voids. <strong>The</strong> first, which is easier if you plan to laminate several more layers, is to cut out and remove the unbonded veneer. Fill the resulting gap with a thick mixture of epoxy and equal parts of high and low-density filler. When this mixture
Chapter 22 – Stringer-Frame Construction 263 cures, fair the surface smooth and apply more veneer over it. <strong>The</strong> second method to fill voids is to inject epoxy with a syringe into the immediate area of the void. If it is large enough, drill several holes at various points in the void to make sure that you are indeed filling it solidly with epoxy. Once you have determined that the second layer is structurally sound, you will find that the hull surface is very rigid, creating a solid mold surface over which you can easily apply succeeding laminations. <strong>The</strong> only caution is that you should apply the third layer using staples that are short enough not to break through the prefinished interior surface. Refer to Chapter 23 for information on fairing and finishing and how to roll over the hull.
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iv Table of Content Getting Started
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vi Table of Content Chapter 17 Mold
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viii Table of Content Later Product
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x Preface The brie
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xii Table of Content
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2 Introduction With the help of fri
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4 Introduction
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Modern Wood/Epoxy Composite Boatbui
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Chapter 2 - Modern Wood/Epoxy Compo
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Wood as a Structural Material CHAPT
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Chapter 3 - Wood as a Structural Ma
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WEST SYSTEM ® Products This chapte
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Chapter 4 - WEST SYSTEM ® Products
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Hull Construction Techniques— An
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Chapter 5 - Hull Construction Techn
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Getting Started Chapter 6 Before Yo
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46 Getting Started Finally, should
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48 Getting Started Designers’ fee
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50 Getting Started
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52 Getting Started Material Price/b
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54 Getting Started between layers o
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56 Getting Started mast; sails and
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58 Getting Started
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60 Getting Started and it is import
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62 Getting Started necessity. We al
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64 Getting Started Grit refers to t
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66 Getting Started An efficient flo
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68 Getting Started Ridge Pole Frame
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70 Getting Started
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72 Getting Started unimproved lumbe
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74 Getting Started If it is not yet
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76 Getting Started chapters, we adv
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78 Getting Started
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80 Getting Started The</str
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82 Getting Started cures quickly to
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84 Getting Started Evap. Rate LEL2
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86 Getting Started 4. Use wet, rath
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88 Getting Started
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Laminating and Bonding Techniques <
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Chapter 11 - Laminating and Bonding
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Scarfing Scarfing remains an essent
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Chapter 12 - Scarfing 109 and used
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Chapter 12 - Scarfing 111 Productio
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Chapter 12 - Scarfing 113 Figure 12
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Chapter 12 - Scarfing 115 Figure 12
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Chapter 12 - Scarfing 117 bevels on
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Synthetic Fibers and WEST SYSTEM ®
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Chapter 13 - Synthetic Fibers and W
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Hardware Bonding As stated earlier
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 131 s
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 133 t
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 135 A
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 137 F
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 139 e
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 141 F
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 143 W
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 145 a
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 147 W
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Chapter 14 - Hardware Bonding 149 K
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Coating and Finishing Broadly, the
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Chapter 15 - Coating and Finishing
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First Production Steps Chapter 16 L
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166 First Production Steps Hull Lin
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168 First Production Steps Figure 1
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170 First Production Steps 1" X 4"
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172 First Production Steps After ch
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174 First Production Steps did the
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176 First Production Steps stem or
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180 First Production Steps case you
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182 First Production Steps curve th
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184 First Production Steps Mark the
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186 First Production Steps
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188 First Production Steps will be
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190 First Production Steps Notches
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192 First Production Steps image an
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194 First Production Steps probably
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202 First Production Steps Setting
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204 First Production Steps To detec
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206 First Production Steps Beveling
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208 First Production Steps Section
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210 First Production Steps Stem lam
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Page 235 and 236: Building a Mold or Plug A mold is a
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Chapter 25 - Compounded Plywood Con
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Later Production Steps Chapter 26 I
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318 Later Production Steps Figure 2
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322 Later Production Steps Material
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324 Later Production Steps Bulkhead
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326 Later Production Steps Teak ven
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328 Later Production Steps fuel tan
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330 Later Production Steps to the s
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336 Later Production Steps
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338 Later Production Steps Preparin
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340 Later Production Steps A semici
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346 Later Production Steps Staple p
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352 Later Production Steps Flat saw
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Review of Basic Techniques for Usin
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Fatigue Aspects of Epoxies and Wood
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Selected Bibliography While the fol
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The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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