The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Chapter 23 – Strip Plank Laminated Veneer and Strip Composite Construction 273
Figure 23-8 Laminating the first layer of veneer over faired
planking. Note the planking bench to the right.
Figure 23-9 Laminating a second layer of veneer onto a strip
planked hull.
have completed laminating, you can trim the planking
flush with the desired surface.
Before you sand or fair, carefully check the entire strip
plank surface for voids and crevices in the planking and
in the joints between planks. Fill these voids and holes
in the planking at mold frame intersections where you
have removed temporary screws with a thick mixture of
epoxy and low-density filler. Rough fair the hull and
then begin laminating veneer.
You can laminate veneer to a strip plank hull exactly as
described for laminating veneer over a mold or plug in
Chapter 21. However, with strip planking, you can
install the first and second layers of veneer with alloy or
plastic staples which do not have to be removed.
Leaving the staples in saves time and helps make the
strip plank method a practical construction technique.
Begin the first layer of veneer about midpoint on the
hull, using a thick, low-density adhesive mixture to
bond it to the strip planking. Recess staples so that they
will not be in the way of rough fairing in preparation
for the second lamination. You can use the mechanical
spiling system with this and succeeding layers and
greatly speed up the process. <strong>The</strong> strip plank hull is an
ideal solid mold for laminating; you will find that you
can laminate all layers of veneer quickly and efficiently,
probably in less time than it took to strip plank the
hull. <strong>The</strong> quality mold surface also helps the hull surface
remain very fair, with little work required between
layers, up through four or five laminations of veneer.
You can remove the temporary frames from the interior
of the hull at a point during construction when you
have applied enough veneer so that the hull is rigidly
self-supporting. It’s possible to disassemble frames, but
probably faster to saw them out, being careful not to
damage the hull. You may have enough bulkheads and
permanent frames in the set-up to support the hull, but
it’s more likely that you’ll need to prop up the sheer,
bow, and transom with blocking to help distribute its
weight. Do not, of course, cut the legs off permanent
frames at this stage.
Final Finishing
With the temporary frames removed, you can work
simultaneously on the interior and exterior surfaces. It’s
usually easiest to sand interior planking smooth while
the hull is upside down so that dust settles to the floor
rather than to the bottom of the boat. Install good
lighting in the interior, provide ventilation with fans,
and wear a dust mask or respirator. If you have not
done so already, cover all prefinished items with tape to
protect them from damage from dripping epoxy and
during sanding.
We use a polisher/sander with 80-grit paper on a soft
foam pad to rough sand and fair interior planking.
When the surface is generally smooth and fair, we finish
sand with orbital sanders and 100-grit paper until the
surface is smooth enough to receive an initial coat of
WEST SYSTEM epoxy.
Although it is not absolutely necessary, you may
prefinish the entire interior while the hull is still upside