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The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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Chapter 22 – Stringer-Frame C<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong> 253<br />

Figure 22-5 A marking gauge or fid.<br />

Small secti<strong>on</strong><br />

of stringer<br />

Thin plywood pad<br />

Marking fid used<br />

to mark or clean<br />

stringer notches<br />

When you have marked all of the stringer outline<br />

positi<strong>on</strong>s, you can begin notching. Many methods are<br />

used to notch frames to accept stringers. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> simplest is<br />

to use a handsaw to saw al<strong>on</strong>g the sides of the marked<br />

notch down to and flush with the bottom of the notch.<br />

Make several more saw cuts in the center of the stock<br />

left in between the notch markings down to the bottom<br />

baseline. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>n use a sharp chisel to cut al<strong>on</strong>g the<br />

bottom of the mark in the slot <strong>on</strong> each side of the frame<br />

until you remove all material in the slot area. Until you<br />

get good with the saw, start by cutting the slots slightly<br />

undersize and then file them out by hand to a snug fit<br />

with the stringer. Use a sample piece of stringer to<br />

check your notches. You can speed up the notching<br />

operati<strong>on</strong> with the use of power tools, such as a reciprocating<br />

saber saw or a power circular saw with the<br />

blade set to the proper depth. We would advise cauti<strong>on</strong><br />

in the use of either of these tools, however, because you<br />

need experience to perform accurate cuts.<br />

Fitting and Fairing Stringers<br />

An advantage of the stringer-frame method is that<br />

frames <strong>on</strong>ly need rough fairing as you set up. You can<br />

bevel and final fair the frames when you install the<br />

stringers. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> stringers act as fairing battens: you can<br />

adjust them in and out of their notches to compensate<br />

for a frame which is too low or high at any point. If, as<br />

an example, a stringer makes a hard spot in <strong>on</strong>e frame,<br />

correct it by filing its notch a little deeper until it lies<br />

fair. If, <strong>on</strong> the other hand, a stringer looks flat <strong>on</strong> a<br />

frame, shim it up in its notch with a small wedge.<br />

During the process of fitting and fairing stringers in<br />

their notches, you will also fit the ends of the stringer to<br />

the stem and transom. You can cut triangular notches in<br />

the stem and fit stringers into them. We often notch<br />

stringers into the back of the stem laminati<strong>on</strong> and then<br />

use triangular plywood breasthook-like gussets to make<br />

a triangular joint with the stringers <strong>on</strong> either side of the<br />

hull. With either method, fit the stringer at the stem<br />

and then set it into the notched frames working aft<br />

from the bow.<br />

We usually notch stringers into a partial transom. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>n,<br />

when the hull has been laminated, we add layers to the<br />

transom. We notch the partial transom and slip stringers<br />

into it in the same way we do with frames. However, if<br />

you have a full transom, you may want to cut triangular<br />

Stringers set<br />

into triangular<br />

notches in the<br />

stem<br />

Stem<br />

Plywood breast hook<br />

Figure 22-6 Fitting stringers to a stem or stern post.

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