The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

332 Later Production Steps
they are, the frames should have enough bonding area
to ensure a strong window joint. Another type of
window is a “poor man’s” lift-out window. This will
keep out rainwater, but may not keep out water if the
window is hit with a solid sea. This type of window is
particularly successful on lightweight boats which,
because of their lightness, are not normally subjected to
being boarded by large waves. Outline the cutout in the
cabin wall on three sides with a trapezoidal framework,
which goes across the bottom and up two sides of the
window, staying an 1" to 2" (25mm to 50mm) away
from any part of the opening. Deeply groove this framework
so that any water entering will run down the
groove to drains which are drilled through the cabin
wall to the very base corners of the framework. <strong>The</strong>n
cut out a glass window of the same trapezoidal shape as
the framework, fit it into place, and install a lifting
handle on the uppermost part. To lift out the window,
move it up approximately an inch or two and set it
aside. You can then replace the window with a framed
screen the same size to keep out bugs.
Electrical and Plumbing Systems
To do the best job on your boat’s electrical system, it is
wise to plan a wiring diagram before installing the
interior. This is especially important if you plan on
extensive use of modern electrical items. Plan the
location of all lights, instruments, radio, pumps, refrigeration,
and engine. With these items located in the
interior plan, lay out the best wiring routes. <strong>The</strong>n, as
you construct the interior, make provisions for the
wiring, such as pre-drilling holes in interior parts before
they are assembled.
Most electrical wiring can be nicely concealed from
view but still be accessible for maintenance. You can
hide wiring behind deck beams, in back of shelf fronts,
and under bunks. Situate the master control panel in a
central location which both minimizes the amount of
wire needed and provides the best routes for hiding the
wiring. Sometimes, it just isn’t possible to hide all of the
wiring, and you have to take other measures to cover it
for a pleasing appearance. In these cases, make up Usectioned
coving from pieces of wood and install it over
the wires with screws so that you can remove the
coving easily. You can use more exotic contrasting
woods to make the coving, adding beauty to the
interior with little extra weight.
In a wood boat, you can easily attach wiring to any part
of the interior using various types of commercial staples
or available wire mounts. Wood is also a natural
insulator, and the wiring does not have to be shielded
from the possibility of shorting out, as it does in steel
and aluminum boats.
<strong>The</strong>re are many pitfalls in a marine electrical system,
and we suggest that you familiarize yourself with at
least one good book on the subject, especially if your
electrical system is to be extensive. One excellent text is
Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual by Nigel
Calder.
In most boats, plumbing systems are rather basic and
easy to install. We advise that you lay out your systems
well beforehand to minimize the amount of piping
needed. For example, install the water tank close to the
sink and the holding tank next to the toilet. All
through-hull fittings are potential dangers to your boat,
and we recommend that you buy only the best fittings
(with shutoff valves) and install them properly. Design
your interior items around your plumbing requirements.
This is especially important with the engine if it
is to be walled off or covered with an engine box. Allow
room for the water intake, water exhaust, muffler
system, fuel tanks, and feeder lines.
Interior Final Finishing
We have always been enthusiastic about natural wood
finishes. Some people criticize wood interiors for being
too dark and maintain that the only way they can be
brightened is with the use of light-colored paint. For
the most part, we feel that this objection can be
overcome by using light-colored woods. Spruce,
Okoume, and pine all finish light and are also beautiful
in grain. Our general observation is that light woods
occur in nature more commonly than do the darker
woods. <strong>The</strong> widespread use of stains is also responsible
for wood’s reputation as being dark.
This is not to say that we are against using solid colors
on interiors. <strong>The</strong> tasteful use of color in the right places
can accentuate natural wood grain finish and, at the
same time, help to brighten an interior. Finishing