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The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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200 First Producti<strong>on</strong> Steps<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> Centering Cable<br />

Before setting up the frames and jigging, run a cable the<br />

length of the boat to represent a centerline. This will be<br />

the reference for aligning frames and measuring stati<strong>on</strong><br />

lines. If you are building a large boat and can borrow or<br />

rent a transit, c<strong>on</strong>sider using it to make sure that your<br />

cable is accurately laid.<br />

A string will work for a centerline, but we prefer to<br />

use 1 ⁄16" or 3 ⁄32" (1.5mm or 2mm) diameter wire rope<br />

stretched to about 500-pounds (230kg) tensi<strong>on</strong>. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

cable stays taut and will not break or stretch if you trip<br />

<strong>on</strong> it. If your foundati<strong>on</strong> is the floor, run the centering<br />

cable an inch (25mm) or less above it. If you are using<br />

a str<strong>on</strong>gback, run it above the cross pieces. Anchor the<br />

centerline <strong>on</strong> guides outside bow and stern of the boat.<br />

For l<strong>on</strong>ger hulls you may want to add slotted support<br />

blocks at intervals al<strong>on</strong>g the length of the cable. Both<br />

guides and blocks should be indestructible. Set them<br />

so that even the clumsiest feet can’t move them after<br />

you’ve begun setting up.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> centerline must be level so frames can be set up<br />

perpendicular to it. Use a line level, available at a<br />

Centerline cable<br />

2" � 12" sides<br />

Measure out from the centerline<br />

to square the stati<strong>on</strong>s marked<br />

<strong>on</strong> side pieces.<br />

Figure 18-2 A str<strong>on</strong>gback arrangement for a dirt floor.<br />

hardware store, to check it before finally fastening it.<br />

Hang the level in the middle of the cable and raise or<br />

lower <strong>on</strong>e end of the cable until it is level. Turn the<br />

level 180° to check in the other directi<strong>on</strong>. If it’s level,<br />

you’re d<strong>on</strong>e.<br />

When the cable is centered, put down the lines over<br />

which to erect frames. Mold frames are usually positi<strong>on</strong>ed<br />

<strong>on</strong> stati<strong>on</strong> lines, spaced as they are in the lofting grid. If<br />

you are including permanent frames such as bulkheads<br />

in the set-up, draw lines to positi<strong>on</strong> them.<br />

Space the lines over which the frames are to be set up<br />

exactly as they are <strong>on</strong> the lofting floor. You can use the<br />

big lofting square to establish the lines perpendicular to<br />

the centerline. Line the square up with the centerline at<br />

each mold frame or permanent frame positi<strong>on</strong> and<br />

mark the floor or timbers <strong>on</strong> each side. If you are not<br />

using a str<strong>on</strong>gback, draw the lines directly <strong>on</strong> the floor.<br />

If you have a str<strong>on</strong>gback, draw lines <strong>on</strong> it to represent<br />

the stati<strong>on</strong> lines. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>se may not be at perfect right angles<br />

to the timbers if the timbers are not parallel or if they<br />

are warped, but they must be parallel to each other,<br />

spaced from each other just as they are in the lofting,<br />

and perpendicular to the centerline.<br />

2" � 4" stakes<br />

through bolted<br />

Stati<strong>on</strong> marks<br />

for mold frames

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