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The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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Chapter 21 – Laminating Veneer Over a Mold or Plug 237<br />

Figure 21-12 Guidelines for edge setting. In some cases during fastening, a pers<strong>on</strong> may try to force or edge set poorly spiled<br />

and fitted planks as in (1). This edge setting subjects the plywood to stresses in such a way as to distort it al<strong>on</strong>g the plank’s<br />

edge, lifting it off the stringer, mold or previous layers of veneer, as in (2) where lumps are formed as the planking is stapled to<br />

the stingers. Minor lumps can be stapled flat, but severe <strong>on</strong>es will not go away. Proper initial fitting is the best soluti<strong>on</strong>, as no<br />

edge setting is needed. However, if a poor fit finds its way into the planking job, the soluti<strong>on</strong> is to fasten the plank flat, ignoring<br />

the edge fit and relying <strong>on</strong> the gap-filling qualities of the epoxy mixture to fill the void.<br />

distance <strong>on</strong> the temporarily fastened veneer all the way<br />

from keel to sheer. Remove the marked veneer and trim<br />

it to the line with a saw and plane.<br />

Finally, trim veneers with a hand-held block plane. In<br />

instances where you d<strong>on</strong>’t have to remove much stock,<br />

this may be the <strong>on</strong>ly tool you need. If you set the plane<br />

blade a little deeper than you would normally, you can<br />

remove material very rapidly.<br />

When it is trimmed, positi<strong>on</strong> the newly spiled veneer<br />

next to the master veneer <strong>on</strong> the mold for a final check.<br />

You can usually hold it in place with your hands and<br />

knee. If you marked and cut accurately, the veneer<br />

should fit. Mark any humps or gaps <strong>on</strong> the edge with a<br />

pencil, remove the piece, and lightly touch it up with<br />

the plane. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> first and last layers of veneer will be<br />

visible and should fit well everywhere, but you can<br />

leave 1 ⁄16" to 1 ⁄8" (1mm to 3mm) gaps between interior<br />

veneers.<br />

After you have fit the first plank, you will find that spiling<br />

the next series of veneers is very similar: about the same<br />

amount of wood will have to be removed from the same<br />

areas for a good fit. As you become more experienced,<br />

you will be able to anticipate the amount of material to<br />

be removed. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> job will progress much faster as it<br />

becomes more repetitive, and you will so<strong>on</strong> see that you<br />

can positi<strong>on</strong> a piece for marking in a short time. A<br />

straight, true edge <strong>on</strong> the veneer is important because<br />

a crooked edge will mislead you and slow progress.<br />

As you fit veneers for the first layer, staple them to the<br />

mold and b<strong>on</strong>d them to any permanent members just<br />

as you did with the master veneer. Be careful not to lose<br />

your veneer angle. If you spile too much off the top or<br />

bottom of a series of veneers, the angle will change in<br />

that directi<strong>on</strong>. Although a few degrees is not worth<br />

worrying about, correct any substantial deviati<strong>on</strong> by<br />

installing a tapered veneer to restore your original angle.<br />

Although it takes a little extra time, there are good<br />

reas<strong>on</strong>s to edge glue first layer veneers. Edge gluing<br />

Figure 21-13 Fitting a veneer against a previously b<strong>on</strong>ded<br />

plank.

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