The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Chapter 21 – Laminating Veneer Over a Mold or Plug 235
on them are potentially endless, we have been able to
find only one effective staple removing tool, a model
designed for upholsterers manufactured by the Stanley
Tool Company. A good tool should have a very sharp,
hardened steel point which inserts easily under the
crown of a staple, and it should have a fulcrum
immediately aft of this point which is wide enough
to prevent damage to the wood. You should be able
to rock the handle to extract the staple with minimal
effort. Figure 21-8 shows some of the tools we have
built in the shop with these design criteria in mind.
You can modify a large screwdriver by grinding its end
to a sharp wide edge and by grinding a curve on one
side so that there is some rocker on the side opposite
the edge. If, after grinding, you find that your fulcrum
is too small, try bending the screwdriver slightly. A
well-hardened screwdriver may not permit this, in
which case you can bond a piece of wood or add
thickened epoxy to build up the fulcrum. Your staple
remover will receive a lot of use, so it’s worth the time
it takes to make a good tool that works easily and well.
Applying the First Layer of Veneer
<strong>The</strong> first layer will become the interior of your boat, so
select its veneers with great care and present the finest
grain and color you have. We almost always naturally
finish interiors because they are beautiful and practical
when done this way.
Begin by placing a master veneer in the middle of the
mold. If you start here, you can plank toward the stem
and toward the transom simultaneously. If two people
or teams are available, they can work in opposite directions.
Because your angle is in the middle of the hull,
it’s easier to maintain as you apply veneers. <strong>The</strong>re is no
set rule for the angle of the first layer, but 45° is good
for starters.
Mark the angle of the first veneer on the polyethylene
mold cover. Set your sliding bevel at the desired angle,
place it on top of a level, and position both tools next
to the hull. Move the level until its bubble is centered
in its markings and transfer the angle from the bevel
square to the mold. Make a mark just long enough to
indicate the placement of the first veneer. <strong>The</strong>n hold
the veneer on the mold and draw a line all the way
across the mold surface to show its exact position.
Figure 21-9 Fitting the first layer of cedar veneer for a
laminated hull. <strong>The</strong> plank is secured in the middle, then the
ends are adjusted and fitted to an adjoining plank.
Figure 21-10 Applying epoxy to the edge of a previously
fastened plank.
If you are installing the master veneer on a mold which
has an inset permanent keel, apply an epoxy mixture
thickened with 404 High-Density Filler to both the keel
and veneer surfaces to bond it in place. Clamp well
with staples. Hold the veneer in position on the rest
of the mold with as few staples as necessary. To fasten