29.01.2013 Views

The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

Laminating Veneer Over a Mold or Plug<br />

This chapter describes in detail the process of laminating layers of thin wood veneer over a mold or plug<br />

such as those described in the previous chapter. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> process of laminating veneers is more comm<strong>on</strong>ly<br />

known as cold molding, and what follows is <strong>on</strong>e of the best available descripti<strong>on</strong>s of the process. While<br />

popular in the early years of wood/epoxy c<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong>, the cost of building a throw-away mold, the inability<br />

to include interior structure in the set-up, and labor required make cold molding less attractive than other<br />

methods of boat c<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong>. Cold molding is still utilized in c<strong>on</strong>juncti<strong>on</strong> with strip plank c<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong><br />

larger boats.<br />

When the mold is faired, it’s time to begin planking.<br />

Your plans will specify the number of layers of veneer<br />

or plywood the hull requires. Although this count may<br />

vary from project to project, laminating techniques do<br />

not. A hull may be made of sliced veneer, plywood, or<br />

stock which you have sawn yourself. In this chapter, for<br />

simplicity, we use the term veneer to refer to all of<br />

these materials.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> general procedure for laminating hulls over a mold<br />

is not complicated. If your wood doesn’t have a single<br />

straight edge, you will have to cut <strong>on</strong>e. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>n spile each<br />

piece, trimming it so that it lies true against its neighbor<br />

at a desired angle, apply thickened epoxy, and staple it<br />

to hold it in place until the epoxy has cured.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> first layer of a laminated hull is the most fragile.<br />

Edge glue its pieces and staple them directly to the<br />

mold. Carefully remove excess adhesive and staples.<br />

Sawn edge<br />

Clamp<br />

Circular saw<br />

Veneer 2" X 12" Base<br />

Figure 21-1 A method for cutting a straight edge <strong>on</strong> veneers.<br />

CHAPTER<br />

21<br />

Use thickened <strong>WEST</strong> <strong>SYSTEM</strong> ® epoxy to laminate a<br />

sec<strong>on</strong>d layer of wood at an angle to the first and staple<br />

through the first layer to the mold. C<strong>on</strong>tinue laminating<br />

in this way, stapling subsequent layers to each other but<br />

not to the mold until the hull is as thick as you want it.<br />

Fair it, finish it, and remove it from the mold.<br />

Preparing the Stock<br />

You can use any of several different types of wood to<br />

laminate your hull. In most cases, boatbuilders use 1 ⁄8"<br />

(3mm) commercially sliced veneer, but you may choose<br />

plywood or saw the lumber yourself. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> first step is<br />

to make sure that every piece has <strong>on</strong>e straight and true<br />

edge. Later in this chapter, when we discuss spiling,<br />

the reas<strong>on</strong>s for this will be apparent.<br />

Plywood has a manufactured straight edge accurate<br />

enough to require no further trimming. Veneer,<br />

1" X 8" Straightedge<br />

Veneer<br />

Rough edge

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!