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The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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Chapter 27 – Deck C<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong> 353<br />

Figure 27-31 <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> deck of a 26' (7.9m) Luders 16 framed-in<br />

and ready for plywood covering.<br />

Figure 27-32 <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> Luders 16 deck covered with 1 ⁄4" (6mm)<br />

okoume plywood. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> teak overlay will c<strong>on</strong>tribute to deck<br />

strength and stiffness.<br />

Figure 27-33 Installing teak planking parallel to the sheer,<br />

beginning al<strong>on</strong>g the outer sheer line and progressing toward<br />

the center of the boat. This is a sprung deck.<br />

After rough sanding, the teak deck is relatively smooth,<br />

but gaps and voids usually remain between some strips.<br />

Fill these flush with the filled black epoxy mixture so<br />

that n<strong>on</strong>e are left anywhere <strong>on</strong> the surface. Trowel the<br />

epoxy filler evenly into the gaps, removing any excess<br />

<strong>on</strong> the deck to reduce the sanding required for a final<br />

finish. After the filled surface has cured, do a final<br />

sanding of the teak surface using 80-grit sandpaper.<br />

Usually, a rotary sander with a foam disc pad is adequate<br />

to achieve a nice, smooth surface. Another handy tool<br />

for final teak sanding, especially for getting in tight<br />

Figure 27-34 Deck planking and final sanding are completed.<br />

Note the herringb<strong>on</strong>e pattern where planks meet al<strong>on</strong>g the<br />

centerline. Also note that the teak begins several inches<br />

inboard from the sheer to allow for a painted cover board for<br />

an attractive effect.

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