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The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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Chapter 27 – Deck C<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong> 349<br />

Figure 27-24 All spaces between the blocking in the deck<br />

shown in Figure 27-23 were filled with h<strong>on</strong>eycomb core.<br />

Figure 27-25 A sandwich deck with all of the framing and<br />

h<strong>on</strong>eycomb core in place before the top plywood deck surface<br />

was laid.<br />

Most blocking is easiest to install before the plywood<br />

decking goes <strong>on</strong>. With core decks, the blocking must all<br />

be installed before the final layer of plywood is b<strong>on</strong>ded<br />

in place. It is much easier to fit, install, and fair in the<br />

blocking to the bare deck framework than to install it<br />

laboriously from the underside of a capped-over deck.<br />

Sometimes, however, it’s difficult to complete your deck<br />

hardware layout plan until the deck is fully completed<br />

and you can study it for a while. If this is the case,<br />

you’re probably better off installing blocking for those<br />

items later <strong>on</strong> from underneath the completed deck,<br />

rather than installing it wr<strong>on</strong>g and having to chisel out<br />

blocking that is not needed (if you’re like us and can’t<br />

stand to sail with unnecessary weight).<br />

Cabin C<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong><br />

For c<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong> purposes, the cabin is really an extensi<strong>on</strong><br />

of the deck. It increases standing headroom and<br />

provides a place for windows or ports that will let in<br />

light and fresh air below. Cabins are always installed<br />

after the deck has been at least framed in, and usually<br />

after the deck has been completed. Design the deck<br />

framework with an opening for the cabin and sufficient<br />

framework around the opening perimeter for attaching<br />

the cabin walls. You will have to pre-bevel to the degree<br />

desired for the cabin walls.<br />

Plywood is the most comm<strong>on</strong> material for making<br />

cabin sides. It should be thick enough to stand <strong>on</strong> its<br />

own with no further frame support for minimal deflecti<strong>on</strong>.<br />

You may laminate the walls out of several layers of<br />

plywood or veneers to get a desired precurved shape<br />

that might be difficult to form with a single piece of<br />

thicker ply. It is comm<strong>on</strong> to laminate the fr<strong>on</strong>t wall of<br />

the cabin to provide attractive curves and improve<br />

windage. As we menti<strong>on</strong>ed in Chapter 23, cabins can<br />

also be built with strip composite techniques.<br />

Fitting cabin walls can be tricky. It is a good idea to<br />

make patterns of cheap paneling and then carefully cut<br />

the cabin walls to the exact pattern size before final<br />

fitting and installati<strong>on</strong>. It is usual to install the walls of<br />

the cabin first and then join the corners with an appropriate<br />

wood gusset that has enough b<strong>on</strong>ding area for a<br />

str<strong>on</strong>g joint.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> most difficult part of building cabins is to establish<br />

a cabin top sheer-line dimensi<strong>on</strong>. This may be a difficult<br />

dimensi<strong>on</strong> to take from the plans, and it is complicated<br />

by the fact that the type and shape of the cabin roof<br />

that is installed might dictate some of the final sheer

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