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The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

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224 Hull C<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong> Methods<br />

Sheer<br />

W.L.6<br />

W.L.6<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> stem for this<br />

male mold must be<br />

lofted and built to<br />

support the inner<br />

face of the boat’s<br />

stem. All dimensi<strong>on</strong>s<br />

must be c<strong>on</strong>sistent<br />

with the lofted lines<br />

of the hull<br />

Inner face of stem<br />

Keel profile<br />

Baseline/centerline<br />

Ribbands<br />

are faired over<br />

the molds and<br />

mold stem, then<br />

fastened securely<br />

Mold<br />

ribbands<br />

Mold<br />

stem<br />

Keel runner<br />

Mold<br />

frames<br />

Profile of stem<br />

Profile of stem<br />

cap or cutwater<br />

Planking<br />

Cap<br />

Stem<br />

Stem<br />

Cap<br />

Planking<br />

Profile of the boat’s hull<br />

Mold stem<br />

Figure 20-4 Lofting and set-up of a mold/stem assembly.<br />

Sheer<br />

the outer measurement of the mold stem assembly. (See<br />

Figure 20-4.)<br />

Even for molds where you will not be inserting a<br />

permanent stem, you will still need to recess the actual<br />

mold stem back further than the permanent stem<br />

would be, and you can easily deduct these measurements<br />

from the lofting board. You’re going to need<br />

some room for stem assembly, whether it remains<br />

attached to the mold or becomes a permanent part<br />

of the laminated hull. For example, if you’re using 3 ⁄4"<br />

(18mm) square ribbands and they meet at the bow<br />

<strong>on</strong> a mold stem that is shaped to a perfect point, the<br />

ribbands al<strong>on</strong>e will still project a fr<strong>on</strong>tal flat area of 11 ⁄2"<br />

(36mm). Thus, you will have to add some material<br />

anyway, regardless of whether it will become a permanent<br />

part of the mold or the hull. This is a practical<br />

c<strong>on</strong>siderati<strong>on</strong> to be thinking about when looking at the<br />

lofting board and determining your positi<strong>on</strong>ing of the<br />

mold stem piece. You should also keep in mind that a<br />

permanent stem should be large enough to offer sufficient<br />

surface area for a properly b<strong>on</strong>ded joint. Thus<br />

the size or depth of the permanent stem will affect the<br />

locati<strong>on</strong> of the mold stem.<br />

Planking the Mold<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> planking <strong>on</strong> both solid and stringered molds must<br />

bend in even, fair curves as it is laid over the mold<br />

frames. Knots and severe grain run-out will cause wood<br />

to bend unfairly or even to break, so use high quality<br />

lumber for stringers. When you c<strong>on</strong>sider the waste<br />

which results from irregularities in lower grade stock,<br />

high quality wood is really not significantly more<br />

expensive. We usually use clear redwood, cedar, or<br />

white pine for planking molds, but many other species<br />

work well.<br />

As so<strong>on</strong> as you have finished your lofting and before<br />

you set up your mold frames, decide the thickness of<br />

your ribbands. Subtract this measurement from the<br />

frames just as you subtracted planking thickness. Most<br />

commercially available lumber is already planed to 3 ⁄4"<br />

thick, so we usually use 3 ⁄4" square ribbands. If they will<br />

not bend easily over all curves, we laminate stringers<br />

from thinner pieces or shift them around until they lie<br />

well. If l<strong>on</strong>g boards are not available, we scarf the<br />

ribbands before fitting them. Ribbands may be joined<br />

with butt blocks, but we prefer scarf joints because they<br />

take <strong>on</strong>ly a little more time and do not result in hard<br />

spots.<br />

We begin planking the mold by identifying its most<br />

difficult curves. Some IOR racers, for example, have<br />

unusually curved shapes to fit a particular rule. Since<br />

these may be unnegotiable if approached from the<br />

wr<strong>on</strong>g angle, we save time and trouble by running our<br />

first stringer so that it best negotiates all of them. This<br />

is the master ribband, and from it we align all of the<br />

other ribbands al<strong>on</strong>g the hull.<br />

As you progress up and down the hull, ribbands<br />

aligned with the master ribband may have to be reoriented<br />

to c<strong>on</strong>form to other shapes. If your planking runs<br />

primarily fore and aft, this problem is magnified by the<br />

difference between the girth of the hull’s fat middle and<br />

its thinner ends. Much more planking is needed in the<br />

middle of the hull than at its ends.<br />

A simple soluti<strong>on</strong> to this is to leave larger gaps between<br />

ribbands at the center than at the ends of the hull.<br />

Slight variati<strong>on</strong>s in the distances between stringers will<br />

very slowly change the directi<strong>on</strong> in which they run.<br />

This permits a gradual directi<strong>on</strong>al transiti<strong>on</strong> and allows<br />

the planking to bend more easily around more difficult<br />

curves. Be careful not to overdo this, however, because

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