The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

352 Later Production Steps
Flat
sawn
stock
Figure 27-29 Two methods for cutting edge-grained deck
strips from rough-sawn teak planks.
the best position from which you can saw edge-grained
teak strips. (See Figure 27-29.) It is crucial that the
width dimension of all the sawn strips be exact and that
you cut the ends off each strip exactly square. <strong>The</strong>
thickness of the teak strips is not as critical, and you
can rough saw these, eliminating dressing with a thickness
planer. You will take care of the teak thickness
when sanding the deck later on. <strong>The</strong> strips should
range from 6' to 12' (1.8m to 3.6m) in length. Strips
any longer than this are difficult to handle when
bonding them to the deck.
Install each teak strip by first coating it and the area on
the deck where it will be applied with unthickened
resin/hardener mixture. Next, make up an adhesive
mixture using a combination of 404 High-Density Filler
#10 Sheet
metal screw
Edge-grained strips
Vertical grain stock
Fill holes and gap with
epoxy/404/423
Sand flush
1 ⁄8"– 1 ⁄4" Thick Strips (veneers)
Figure 27-30 Use sheet metal screws with large washers to
clamp the strips in position until the epoxy/404/423 Graphite
mixture cures. Fill hole and gaps with epoxy/404/423
Graphite mixture after screws are removed. Sand flush with
teak planks after epoxy cures.
and 423 Graphite Powder. Add High-Density Filler to
the consistency of mayonnaise and then mix in graphite
at a rate of 5-10% by volume. This is enough to color
the epoxy the traditional black between the teak strips
and, more importantly, to protect the epoxy from ultraviolet
light. Although we have never had any trouble
with it, some varieties of teak are notoriously hard to
bond. Try some sample joints with the teak you intend
to use before applying it to the deck.
Don’t worry about applying too much epoxy: excess
adhesive between the deck and the strips helps to
guarantee that strips are bonded to the deck with no
voids and very little will be wasted. Leave gaps of about
3
⁄32" (2mm) between strips for the traditional look and to
ensure a positive seal between the edges of the
individual planks. If little or no epoxy floods into a gap,
you have an immediate indication of a potential epoxystarved
area.
Use butt joints where long strips are needed. Saw the
ends of the planks square on a miter box or cutoff saw
so that they will lie flat and coat them liberally with
adhesive. Stagger joints for the most appealing effect.
<strong>The</strong>re are many ways to hold planking down until the
epoxy cures. <strong>The</strong> objectives are straightforward and any
technique can be used if you keep them in mind. Strips
should be in contact with the epoxy and, to avoid water
damage in the future, there should be no holes in the
deck. We recommend inserting #10 sheet metal screws
and washers, both of which have been coated with a
mold-release agent, into the gaps between planks. <strong>The</strong>
washers hold the edges of the teak firmly until the
epoxy cures, are easy to remove, and provide 3 ⁄16"
(5mm) spacing. When the strips are bonded in place,
the deck is usually a mess, with black adhesive smeared
on rough teak and, if you’ve used them, staples sticking
up all over the place. At this point, remove the screws
and washers and fill the holes with the same filled
(High-Density Filler and Graphite Fiber) black epoxy
used to bond the deck boards. Using a syringe will
speed this process. Rough sand the entire deck with 50grit
paper and a hand-operated belt sander or a rotary
sander with a good foam disc pad and thin plywood or
plastic face. Rotary sanders are designed for this type of
work and do an excellent job.