The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

234 Hull Construction Methods
Bauman’s artfully
reworked bearing
scraper
Figure 21-8 Various staple removers.
Store-bought tack
puller – nice but
needs customizing
Rather tedious store-bought
stamped-out model
At times, particularly on final layers of laminate, other
materials serve better than plastic banding. Wooden
mixing sticks, scrap veneer, thin rippings from sawn
stock, and thin plywood can make very good stapling
strips. <strong>The</strong>se pieces are heavier than plastic and they
distribute pressure over greater area, so fewer staples
may be needed. <strong>The</strong> biggest problem with using them
is that they tend to bond to the veneer when epoxy
squeezes out through openings or cracks. When this
happens, use an offset paring chisel to carefully peel off
the strip. Prevent wood strips from sticking by laying
down 6 mil plastic strips prior to stapling.
Wood stapling strips are also useful for preventing
damage to veneer. When you use plastic banding, each
staple is likely to leave a small, hard-to-sand indentation,
which may discolor slightly after coating. <strong>The</strong>
process of removing staples can also mar the surface
of veneer, and wood stapling strips provide some
protection against this.
<strong>The</strong> special care required for removing staples from the
first and last layers of veneer is described in other parts
of this chapter. All staples in all layers, from the second
layer on, may be removed within hours after they are
applied. In fact, it’s much easier to pull them out when
epoxy is partially cured but strong enough to hold
Jaws must be re-ground
Rebuilt 1 ⁄4" wood chisel – rounded and
smoothed, this one is easy to sharpen
Awl- short and bent
Taped handles
Compression
spring to make
things more
enjoyable
Much revered parrot’s-beak pliers
veneers by itself, so we recommend that you attempt
this at the earliest possible moment. When your epoxy
is fully cured, staples are much tougher to remove and
you will spend a lot more time on the job.
Depending on which hardener you use and the temperatures
at which you are working, start removing staples
4 to 7 hours after applying a layer of veneer. It’s easy to
determine the partial cure stage. Check epoxy that has
squeezed up between veneers. If it is generally hard to
the touch but you can dent it with your fingernail, it’s
ready. If you have used banding tape, pull its end
directly up and away from the hull. Many of your
staples will remain embedded in the tape.
Staples remaining in the hull often dangle by one leg.
Pull these out with a pair of pliers. Some, especially
those that are at a bad angle, may tear through the
stapling strip and remain in the lamination. <strong>The</strong>se will
have to be removed by hand, but since tugging on the
strip usually lifts them a little, there probably will be
gaps between the hull and their crowns into which you
can insert a staple-pulling tool.
Where no gap exists, staple removal is a little more
difficult, and a well-designed staple remover comes in
handy. Although the principles are simple and variations