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320 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY NUMBER 23<br />

but they also set the stage for the dark doings of the<br />

Charcoal Cruncher:<br />

With startling abruptness I broke out of the cornfield onto the tiny<br />

square of packed earth which serves as Chep's front porch. A quavering<br />

"Buenas tardes" brought Chep leaping out of his doorway (he later<br />

confessed he thought I must have been some Ladino come to kill him).<br />

His home is in traditional style—one room 13' X 15', walls of muddaubed<br />

wattle, a peaked thatch roof topped by a cross. Inside, sitting on<br />

the ground around the fire, were Chep's mother, his wife, his five-yearold<br />

daughter, Maruch, and his eleven-month-old son, Maryan.<br />

The women fired questions at Chep, Maruch pressed close to her<br />

mother, staring at me wide-eyed.<br />

The parents were very indulgent. Each time that Maryan began to cry<br />

he was offered the breast—through a slit in the side of his mother's<br />

blouse. Maruch was kept happy with peanut brittle brought from San<br />

Cristobal. Even when Maryan broke a pottery bowl the parents only<br />

laughed.<br />

At about eight o'clock the mother climbed into bed with Maryan, and<br />

grandmother with Maruch. There is a genuine double bed for Chep, wife<br />

and baby on the outside edge, protected by an encircling arm. I listened<br />

to the sounds of the night; within the hut the falling of burnt embers, the<br />

Once, they say. ... It was told to me at home. My<br />

mother told me about it long ago. There was a<br />

woman. She just cut off her head. It would go to<br />

every house to crunch charcoal. She swallowed the<br />

charcoal and that maybe is what she lived on, it<br />

seems. But the woman went to bed first and then<br />

when he was asleep. . . . She had a husband. She left<br />

her husband sleeping. Her flesh was left lying in a<br />

heap, just her head went. It went to each house to<br />

crunch charcoal. It frightened people. If it was seen it<br />

would flee right away. Rolling, it went up to the<br />

eaves.<br />

You see, who knows if it's a witch or something<br />

else, who knows. It casts a spell when it arrives at<br />

each of the houses like that. The people say it causes<br />

sickness. They get sick from it. If they are frightened<br />

by it they die. That's why they say that, I think.<br />

Now, today, they aren't seen anymore. I never<br />

hear about such things. But once there were a great<br />

many. That's the way the people used to be. They<br />

saw a lot of Charcoal Crunchers. Just their heads<br />

rolled about, crunching charcoal at the firesides.<br />

One time it was spied on. Boiling water was<br />

thrown on it. It went out shouting. Then it was<br />

discovered who it was. When she woke up she was<br />

burnt. Then it was discovered. It was seen that it was<br />

her. She didn't let herself be seen of course. But her<br />

husband spoke. "How did that happen to you?<br />

Where did you burn yourself?" asked her husband.<br />

He scolded her.<br />

The Charcoal Cruncher<br />

T47<br />

snores of the aged one, the rustling of Maryan on the bed, and the cat on<br />

the roof. The hut seemed wrapped in cricket song. Occasionally the<br />

steady sound would be punctuated by the soft laughter of neighbors, and<br />

every few moments the pulsing of a drum, lightened by the scarcely<br />

audible piping of a flute, would reach up from the church far below.<br />

At 4:30 a.m. the wife sat up in bed, adjusted her blouse and skirt,<br />

stepped down to the floor, bent over and hoisted Maryan up on her back.<br />

[She] proceeded to fetch a pail of water to soak the corn and beans. A<br />

half hour later the grandmother arose, went out, came in, washed her<br />

quern, and reground the corn dough. The two women faced each other<br />

silently, ther faces lit by the yellow lamp-flame, their backs in wavelike<br />

motion, two black eyes peeping out of a white shawl. I wonder if the<br />

lulling sound of the corn being dropped by handfuls into the water,<br />

swirled around and finally ground is as soothing to the sleep-filled<br />

husband as it was to sleep-filled me. It seemed to represent the security<br />

of the promise of another meal and the attentiveness of a faithful wife.<br />

At 6:15 Chep was up and about. Chep was handed a cupful of water<br />

which was used for two mouthwashes, followed by much handwashing,<br />

then face-washing.<br />

Breakfast over, we made out departure, slipping down the path,<br />

Chep's bright rose, blue, and yellow ribbons shining in the sun, resplendent<br />

amidst the bright green leaves of corn.<br />

Bweno, 7a ti vo7ne ta xalik chilo7iltabat ta jna<br />

chislo7iltabe jme7 ti vo7ne, 7oy la jun 7antz, ja7 no<br />

la sjol ta stuch' lok'el ta xbat ta ju-jun na ta sk'ux<br />

7ak'al, li 7ak'ale, ta sbik' ech'el 7i ja7 nan chipan<br />

ya7el, pero li 7antze, chvay ba7yi, 7i ja7 to k'alal<br />

vayem xa 7oxe, 7oy smalal te vayem chikta li<br />

smalale, ja7 te pumul xkom li sbek'tale ja7 no 7ox<br />

xbat ti sjole, ta xbat ta ju-jun na ta xk'ux 7ak'al, ta<br />

ssibtas krixchanoetik, ti mi 7ilate, ta xjatav la lok'el ta<br />

7ora, xbalet xa la muyel ta nuk' na.<br />

Va7i 7un, jna7tik mi j7ak'-chamel mi k'usi nan<br />

ya7el taje, jna7tik ta spay chamel 7i bu xk'ot ta ju-jun<br />

na chak taje, ti yu7un la chalik li krixchanoetike ta<br />

xak' chamel ta x7ipajik 7o, k'usi, ti mi xi7ik 7oe<br />

yu7un ta xchamik, por 7eso ja7 yech chalik chka7i<br />

vo7on chak taje.<br />

7Ora lavie, ch'abal xa bu xvinaj, mu xa bu xka7i<br />

yech pero ti vo7ne 7ep to 7ox la ta j-mek, naka to<br />

7ox la ja7 yech krixchanoetik ti vo7ne 7ep chilik ta<br />

j-mek jk'ux-7ak'al ta j-mek, ja7 no 7ox sjol xbalet, ta<br />

sk'ux 7ak'al ta ti7 k'ok\ k'usi.<br />

7Oy jun bweltae, 7ipa7iat la, 7ik'ebbat la ech'el<br />

k'ak'al vo7, x7avet xa la lok'el 7un, ja7 to la vinaj 7o<br />

ti buy 7a li yajval 7une, k'ak'em xa la 7isakub 7un, ja7<br />

to vinaj 7o 7ilat 7o ti ja7 7une, mu xak' sba 7iluk a7a,<br />

pero 7iyal li smalale. "K'un x7elan 7apase, bu<br />

lak'ak'?" xi li smalale. 7I7ilin la.

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