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Without taking anything away from its<br />

huge cheese counter (featuring Pecorino<br />

di fossa and Gorgonzola) and its vast assortment<br />

of cold cuts, wines and even fruit and vegetables,<br />

what impresses most at Quaranta, first opened in<br />

1972, are the gastronomic specialties. Tuna and<br />

ham mousses, salad of chicken, celery and ham,<br />

boiled ham à la parisienne, baskets of tuna paté<br />

with quails’ eggs, milanesine in carpione (breaded<br />

veal cutlets marinated in vinegar and onions), ac-<br />

ciughe al verde (anchovies in parsley and garlic<br />

sauce) and loin of pork with tuna mayonnaise are<br />

the most typical antipasti. Pride of place among first<br />

courses goes to lasagne and cannelloni. Piedmon-<br />

tese specialties such as tofeja, a bean and pork rind<br />

stew from the Canavese area and panissa, a dish<br />

of rice, beans and pork from Vercelli, often appear,<br />

and the paella valenciana is also exquisite. Other<br />

favorites are eggplant parmigiana, stuffed vegeta-<br />

bles, bagna caoda and roast free-range chicken.<br />

The desserts — fruit cakes, bonet and crème cara-<br />

mel —are homemade too. An efficient banqueting<br />

service provides home deliveries.<br />

Closed Wednesday afternoon and Sunday.<br />

DELICATESSENS<br />

151

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