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R<br />

oberto Ferrando has every reason to<br />

sit back and relax. Carema, one of the<br />

great jewels of Piedmontese enology, made fa-<br />

mous worldwide by his grandfather Giuseppe<br />

and father Luigi in the 1950s and 1960s, when<br />

they began vinifying it on their own, is now an<br />

established success . Carema has always been<br />

considered a “village cum vineyard”. There are<br />

few places in the world with such a tight con-<br />

nection with the vine, the natural landscape here<br />

running over into the village down in the valley.<br />

In the vineyard stone pillars support the pergolas<br />

and all work is done by hand. The problem here<br />

is that, on the one hand, the vineyards are being<br />

abandoned and, on the other, there are people<br />

who refuse to sell theirs to others who would be<br />

prepared to work them. Magical wines are Care-<br />

ma Etichetta Bianca 2008, aged in large barrels,<br />

and Carema Etichetta Nera 2007, aged in used<br />

casks. Erbaluce di Caluso Cariola 2011 is well-<br />

developed and headily perfumed, while Canavese<br />

Rosso 2010 is pleasant, fruity and juicy. Caluso<br />

Passito 2006, finally, is rich and sweet with defi-<br />

nite notes of withered fruit and toastiness.<br />

WINE GROWERS<br />

341

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