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University of Vaasa - Vaasan yliopisto

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The Yarn Manufacturing Stage<br />

166<br />

Yarn manufacture includes different sub processes such as leaning, mixing, carding,<br />

combing, drafting, twisting, and winding. Most <strong>of</strong> these are physical processes that<br />

are the same for both organic and non-organic cotton. However, as with ginning,<br />

there has to be a clear segregation <strong>of</strong> the operational area if a company is processing<br />

both types <strong>of</strong> cotton. If this can be achieved, then a premium can be obtained (Table<br />

9).<br />

The Fabric Manufacturing / Knitting Stage<br />

Knitting is a mechanical process <strong>of</strong> changing yarn into fabric. There is no difference<br />

between organic and conventional cotton knitting. The only thing that has to be taken<br />

into account while processing certified organic cotton is to not to use oils that contain<br />

heavy metals or other potentially contaminating pollutants in the mechanical knitting<br />

process. Once again, manufacturers that can achieve this can obtain a premium<br />

(Table10).<br />

Price difference in<br />

organic and conventional<br />

cotton griege fabric (per<br />

Kg)<br />

Additional cost <strong>of</strong> organic cotton<br />

yarn required to produce 1 Kg <strong>of</strong><br />

organic cotton griege fabric<br />

$ 2. 43 $ 2 .00 $ 0. 43<br />

Table 10: Value addition at the knitting stage<br />

The Fabric Finishing Stage<br />

Value addition<br />

at knitting stage<br />

Fabric finishing is a crucial stage in the manufacture <strong>of</strong> cotton products. It is the final<br />

stage before the garment is cut and stitched. Finishing involves dyeing, printing,<br />

mercerising and other processes that give the fabric added benefits or features. There<br />

are no universally-agreed standards or regulations for the finishing <strong>of</strong> organic cotton<br />

products, although there are a number <strong>of</strong> independent organisations that use their

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