Bravo & Brava • 1995 To 2000

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2E*18 Engine removal and overhaul procedures eft. 7.3 Withdrawing the auxiliary shaft diameter measured along the length of the journal, indicate that the journal is tapered. Again, if wear is detected, the crankshaft can be reground by an engineering workshop and refitted with undersize bearings. 12 Check the oil seal journals at either end of the crankshaft. If they appear excessively scored or damaged, they may cause the new seals to leak when the engine is reassembled. It may be possible to repair the journal; seek the advice of an engineering workshop. 13 Measure the crankshaft runout by setting up a DTI gauge on the centre main bearing journal and rotating the shaft in V - blocks. The maximum deflection of the gauge will indicate the runout. Take precautions to protect the bearing journals and oil seal mating surfaces from damage during this procedure. A maximum runout figure is not quoted by the manufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mm as a rough guide. If the runout exceeds this figure, crankshaft renewal should be considered - consult your FIAT dealer or an engine rebuilding specialist for advice. 14 Refer to Section 9 for details of main and big-end bearing inspection. 7 Auxiliary shaft §^ (1.6 litre engines) - removal, inspection and refitting Removal 1 Remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket as described in Chapter 2C, Section 5. 7.5 Auxiliary shaft oil pump driven gear 2 Unscrew the three bolts, and withdraw the auxiliary shaft flange from the engine. Recover the gasket. 3 The auxiliary shaft can now be withdrawn from the engine (see illustration). Note that, if the oil pump has not been removed, the oil pump driveshaft will turn as the shaft is removed. 4 Turn the auxiliary shaft as necessary so that it does not hang up on the bearings inside the engine. Keep the shaft horizontal as it is withdrawn; force should not be used, or required, otherwise the shaft and bearings could be damaged. Inspection 5 Check the condition of the oil pump drivegear. If the teeth are excessively worn, it is likely that a new shaft will be needed, but consult an engine rebuilding specialist first. Also check the condition of the driven gear mounted in the crankcase (see illustration). 6 Examine the shaft's two bearings for signs of scoring or excessive wear. If a micrometer is available, the bearing diameters can be checked against the specified values. 7 If the shaft bearings are worn, it is likely that the shaft bushes in the cylinder block will also be worn. Renewal is possible, but a press will be required, making this a job for an engine specialist. Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a new flange gasket. It is advisable to fit a new auxiliary shaft oil seal, as described in Chapter 2C, Section 9. If the oil pump has not been removed, check (by turning the auxiliary shaft) that the oil pump drive is working properly. 8 Cylinder block/crankcase cleaning and inspection Cleaning 1 Remove all external components and brackets from the block, including (as applicable) the rear engine plate, oil pressure switch, breather pipe, coolant pump and alternator/power steering pump/air conditioning compressor mounting brackets. 2 For complete cleaning, the core plugs should ideally be removed. Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by pulling on the screw with a pair of grips, or by using a slide hammer. 3 Where applicable, undo the retaining bolts and remove the piston oil jet spray tubes from inside the cylinder block. 4 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder block/crankcase, taking care not to damage the gasket/sealing surfaces. 5 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted). The plugs are usually very tight - they may have to be drilled out, and the holes re- tapped. Use new plugs when the engine is reassembled. 6 If the block is very dirty have it steamcleaned, otherwise use paraffin to clean it. 7 Clean all oil holes and oil galleries again and dry thoroughly, then apply a light film of oil to all mating surfaces, to prevent rusting. Smear the cylinder bores with a light coating of oil. 8 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly. <strong>To</strong> clean the threads, run the correct-size tap into each of the holes to remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to restore damaged threads (see illustration). If possible, use compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation. 9 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them into the holes in the block. Tighten them securely. 10 Where applicable, refit the piston oil jet spray tubes to the cylinder block, and securely tighten the retaining bolts. Bend over the tabs to lock the bolts. 11 Fit the new core plugs with sealant applied to their perimeters before using a suitable metal tube to drive them squarely into position. Inspection 12 Visually check the cylinder block for cracks and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the threaded holes. If there has been any history of internal water leakage, it may be worthwhile having an engine overhaul specialist check it with special equipment. 13 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and scoring. Check for signs of a wear ridge at the top of the cylinder, indicating that the bore is excessively worn. 14 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, measure the bore diameters at the top (just under the wear ridge), centre, and bottom, parallel to the crankshaft axis (see illustration). 15 Next, measure the bore diameters at the same three locations, at right-angles to the crankshaft axis. If there is any doubt about the condition of the cylinder bores, seek the advice of a FIAT dealer or suitable engine reconditioning specialist. 16 If the engine is not going to be reassembled right away, cover it with a large plastic 8.8 <strong>To</strong> clean the cylinder block bolt threads, run a correct-size tap into the holes
8.14 Three bore measurement points - dimensions in mm A Measure at right-angles to the crankshaft axis B Measure in line with the crankshaft axis bag to keep it clean and prevent rusting. If the engine is ready for reassembly, refit all the components and brackets removed. Main and big-end bearings inspection and selection Inspection 1 Even though the main and big-end bearings should be renewed during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine (see illustration). The bearing shells are available in different thicknesses to match the diameter of the journal. 2 Bearing failure can occur due to lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine, or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, the cause must be corrected (where applicable) before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase, the main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the connecting rod big-end bearing caps. Lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers while checking it. 4 Dirt and other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or it may pass through filters or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. 5 Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded in the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the bearing, and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 6 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which can be the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, and destroy it. 7 When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 8 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring the engine) puts very high loads on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the bearings to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from the steel backing. FATIGUE FAILURE IMPROPER SEATING CRATERS OR POCKETS BRIGHT (POLISHED) SECTIONS SCRATCHED BY DIRT LACK OF OIL DIRT EMBEDDED INTO BEARING MATERIAL Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2E»19 OVERLAY WIPED OUT EXCESSIVE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL OVERLAY WIPED OUT RADIUS RIDE 9.1 Typical bearing failures 9 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and'corrodes the bearing material. 10 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing running'clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 11 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly; there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on it. 12 As mentioned at the beginning of this Section, the bearing shells should be renewed as a matter of course during engine overhaul; not to do so is false economy. Selection 13 Main and big-end bearings are available in standard sizes and a range of undersizes to suit reground crankshafts - refer to Specifications for details. The engine reconditioner will select the correct bearing shells for machined crankshaft. 14 The running clearances can be checked when the crankshaft is refitted with its new bearings. 10 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence 1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all new parts have been obtained, and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiarise yourself with the work involved, and to ensure that all items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, thread-locking compound will be needed. A tube of sealant will also be required for the joint faces that are fitted without gaskets. 2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order: a) Crankshaft (Section 11). b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (Section 5). c) Oil pump (relevant Part of Chapter 2). d) Sump (relevant Part of Chapter 2). e) Flywheel (relevant Part of Chapter 2). f) Cylinder head (relevant Part of Chapter 2). g) Coolant pump (see Chapter 3) h) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets, and timing belt (relevant Part of Chapter 2). I) Engine external components. 3 At this stage, all engine components should be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults repaired. The components should be laid out on a completely clean work surface.
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BRAVO & BRAVA • 1995 to 2000 (N t
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Contents LIVING WITH YOUR FIAT BRAV
Page 5 and 6:
o.4 Introduction The 3-door FIAT Br
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o.6 Roadside repairs The following
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o.8 Roadside repairs Wheel changing
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o«io Weekly checks Introduction Th
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o-i2 Weekly checks Engine oil level
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o.i4 Weekly checks Tyre condition a
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o.i6 Weekly checks Washer fluid lev
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Chapter 1 Routine maintenance & ser
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Torque wrench settings (continued)
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1 Washer reservoir 2 Inlet manifold
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1 Introduction General information
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A - -A 6.3 Topping-up the battery e
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7.21 Set the belt tension, then tig
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Try to move the pipes and silencers
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18.6 Pull the HT leads off the spar
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5 Before removing the filter, note
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2 To fully check the operation of t
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31.3a Opening the radiator bleed sc
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Chapter 12 Body electrical systems
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1 General information and precautio
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to release the clip, then withdraw
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Body electrical systems 12»7 4.35a
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14 Extract the festoon-type bulb fr
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6.18a Unscrew the mounting bolts ..
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10.2 Prise the speaker grille from
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Body electrical systems 12»15 14.4
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15.3c ... and remove the inner meta
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18.6b Wiper mounting bolt located o
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22.3b Disconnect the yellow wiring
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Key to symbols — t ; j^g. Item nu
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Wire colours W White R Red Y Yellow
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Wire colours W White O Orange R Red
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Wire colours W White O Orange R Red
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Wire colours W R Y Br P Bl Gr G B V
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Wire colours Key to items w R Y Br
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11 »2 Bodywork and fittings which
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11 »4 Bodywork and fittings 6 Fron
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'\'\»6 Bodywork and fittings the c
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11 »8 Bodywork and fittings 10.11
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11*10 Bodywork and fittings 7 If wo
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11*12 Bodywork and fittings 16.10 R
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11*14 Bodywork and fittings 18.3a U
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11*16 Bodywork and fittings 18.23a
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11*18 Bodywork and fittings 20.15b
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11 »22 Bodywork and fittings 16 Wi
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10*2 Suspension and steering system
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1f>8 Suspension and steering system
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10*10 Suspension and steering syste
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10«12 Suspension and steering syst
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10*14 Suspension and steering syste
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9*2 Braking system Anti-lock brakin
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9*4 Braking system 4.2 Disconnectin
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9*6 Braking system 5 Unhook the sel
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9*8 Braking system 5.27 Removing th
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9*10 Braking system 8.4 Disconnecti
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9»12 Braking system K-0 10.13 Cros
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9»14 Braking system 25 Working ins
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9*16 Braking system 2 Unbolt the ex
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8*2 Driveshafts 1 General informati
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8*4 Driveshafts 3.23a Extract the c
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8*6 Driveshafts 4.7 Unbolt the inte
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Chapter 7 Part B: Automatic transmi
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2.19a Two of the six bolts securing
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S§^)/ H31468 6.11 Selector lever p
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Chapter 7 Part A: Manual transmissi
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2 Gearchange lever and linkage remo
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hoist to the left-hand end of the i
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) Apply a smear of high-melting-poi
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6*2 Clutch 1 General information Ve
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6«4 Clutch 6.4 Clutch slave cylind
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Chapter 5 Part B: Ignition system C
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2.8 Diagnostic connector plug locat
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4.4 Pull the HT leads off the spark
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6.1 Crankshaft sensor on 1.6 litre
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Chapter 5 Part A: Starting and char
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Starting and charging systems 5A»3
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5.13a Unscrew the bolts securing th
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6 Unscrew and remove the starter mo
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402 Exhaust and emission control sy
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404 Exhaust and emission control sy
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Chapter 4 Part B: Fuel system - mul
Page 175 and 176: 2.5 Disconnecting the breather hose
Page 177 and 178: 4.3c Disconnecting the throttle pot
Page 179 and 180: Refitting 20 Refit the injectors an
Page 181 and 182: Unplug the wiring connectors and un
Page 183 and 184: 5.10a Once the base of the unit has
Page 185 and 186: 8.8b ... and remove this wiring har
Page 187 and 188: Chapter 4 Part A: Fuel system - sin
Page 189 and 190: 6 Slacken and withdraw the securing
Page 191 and 192: 5.1 Disconnect the breather hose fr
Page 193 and 194: Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversa
Page 195 and 196: Fuel system - single-point injectio
Page 197 and 198: Disconnect the inlet manifold coola
Page 199 and 200: Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and vent
Page 201 and 202: eveal a faulty hose, it must be ren
Page 203 and 204: Refitting 14 Ensure that the cylind
Page 205 and 206: 36 Unbolt and remove the timing bel
Page 207 and 208: Cooling, heating and ventilation sy
Page 209 and 210: Chapter 2 Part E: Engine removal an
Page 211 and 212: Crankshaft Main bearing journal dia
Page 213 and 214: 2.20a Removing the cover from the b
Page 215 and 216: 2.33 Removing the left-hand wheelar
Page 217 and 218: Automatic transmission models 64 Re
Page 219 and 220: 4.20 Look for cracking between the
Page 221 and 222: 4.45a Locate the inner . 4.45b ...
Page 223 and 224: 5.24a Using a small screwdriver ...
Page 225: 5.47 Tightening the big-end bearing
Page 229 and 230: 11.19 Lubricate the crankcase main
Page 231 and 232: 2D»2 1.8 litre engine in-car repai
Page 233 and 234: Location of TDC on No 1 cylinder 1
Page 235 and 236: 4.13a Removing No 3 exhaust camshaf
Page 237 and 238: camshaft oil seals for signs of lea
Page 239 and 240: 14 If necessary, remove and clean t
Page 241 and 242: 37 Again working in sequence, tight
Page 243 and 244: ^^^^^ 13.8 Using an impact screwdri
Page 245 and 246: 202 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
Page 253 and 254: 2O10 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
Page 255 and 256: 2012 1.6 litre enginein-car repair
Page 263 and 264: 2O20 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
Page 265 and 266: Chapter 2 Part B: 1.4 litre engine
Page 267 and 268: 6 Once pressure is felt, continue t
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Page 271 and 272: Section 4. It is essential that an
Page 273 and 274: paragraph 17), then remove the heat
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13.8 Using an impact screwdriver to
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2A«2 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A«4 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»6 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»8 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»10 1.2 litre engine in-car repa
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REF-2 Conversion factors Length (di
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REF.4 Vehicle identification number
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REF.6 Disconnecting the battery Sev
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REF.8 Tools and working facilities
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REF.10 MOT test checks This is a gu
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REF«12 MOT test checks Exhaust sys
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REF.14 Fault finding Engine • Eng
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REF.16 Fault finding Engine (contin
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REF.18 Fault finding Clutch Note: T
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REF.20 Fault finding Braking system
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REF.22 Fault finding Electrical sys
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REF.24 Glossary of technical terms
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REF
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REF
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Bravo & Brava • 1995 To 2000

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