Bravo & Brava • 1995 To 2000

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Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings Contents Bonnet - removal and refitting 11 Bonnet lock and safety catch - removal and refitting 12 Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting 13 Door - removal, refitting and adjustment 15 Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting 16 Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting 14 Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting 18 Exterior mirror components - removal and refitting 17 Facia and centre console - removal and refitting 23 Front bumper - removal and refitting 6 General information 1 Glovebox - removal and refitting 24 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe 2 Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for |k novice with little expenence Fairty easy, suitable |k for beginner with ^ some experience Fairly difficult, |k suitable for competent ^ DIY mechanic ^ Specifications Torque wrench settings Nm Bumper 20 Door hinge centre bolt 15 Door hinge-to-door bolt 45 Front seat belt pre-tensioner and reel 40 Front seat belt pre-tensioner shear bolt 4 1 General information The bodyshell is composed of pressedsteel sections which are welded together, although some use of structural adhesives is made. In addition, the front wings are bolted on. The bonnet, door and some other panels vulnerable to corrosion are fabricated from zinc-coated metal. A coating of anti-chip primer, applied prior to paint spraying provides further protection. Extensive use is made of plastic materials, mainly in the interior, but also in exterior components. The outer sections of the front and rear bumpers are injection-moulded from a synthetic material which is very strong, and yet light. Plastic components such as wheel arch liners are fitted to the underside of the vehicle, to improve the body's resistance to corrosion. 2 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe ^ The general condition of a vehicle's bodywork significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance the underside, inside all the wheel arches, and the lower part of the engine compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the 11»1 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets 3 Major body damage - repair 5 Minor body damage - repair 4 Rear bumper - removal and refitting 7 Seat belt components - precautions, removal and refitting 20 Seats - removal and refitting 19 Sunroof - general information 21 Tailgate - removal and refitting 8 Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting 10 Tailgate strut - removal and refitting 9 Windscreen, rear window glass, and fixed window - general information 22 Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced DIY ^ mechanic ^ Ibf ft 15 11 33 30 3 Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY ^ or professional ^ vehicle. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and underframe need washing in the same way, to remove any accumulated mud which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough, the best time to clean the underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically, and this is a good time for inspection. Periodically, except on vehicles with a waxbased underbody protective coating, it is a good idea to have the whole of the underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at many garages, and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
11 »2 Bodywork and fittings which sometimes is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are not available, there are some excellent grease solvents available, which can be brushapplied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off. Note that these methods should not be used on vehicles with wax-based underbody protective coating, or the coating will be removed. Such vehicles should be inspected annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when the underbody should be washed down, and any damage to the wax coating repaired using undershield. Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be applied. It would also be worth considering the use of such wax-based protection for injection into door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard against rust damage, where such protection is not provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois leather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish, will give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but such dulling is usually caused because regular washing has been neglected. Care needs to be taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid damage to the finish. Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear, so that water can be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears, by the use of a proprietary glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass. 3 Maintenance - |tj> upholstery and carpets Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth and specialist cleaner. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on lightcoloured upholstery), use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not overwet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get into the seams and padded interior, causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose. 4 Minor body damage - repair « Repairs of minor scratches in bodywork If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section. Repairs of dents in bodywork When deep denting of the vehicle's bodywork has taken place, the first task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact, and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 3 mm below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being 'belled-out'. Should the dent be in a section of the bodywork which has a double skin, or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws into the holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a really good 'key' for the filler paste. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and respraying. Repairs of rust holes or gashes in bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will do the job most effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able to judge the severity of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think, and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from the affected area, except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlight shells, etc). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filler paste. Wire-brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust-inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be achieved by the use of aluminium or plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre matting, is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then
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BRAVO & BRAVA • 1995 to 2000 (N t
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Contents LIVING WITH YOUR FIAT BRAV
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o.4 Introduction The 3-door FIAT Br
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o.6 Roadside repairs The following
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o.8 Roadside repairs Wheel changing
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o«io Weekly checks Introduction Th
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o-i2 Weekly checks Engine oil level
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o.i4 Weekly checks Tyre condition a
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o.i6 Weekly checks Washer fluid lev
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Chapter 1 Routine maintenance & ser
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Torque wrench settings (continued)
Page 23 and 24: 1 Washer reservoir 2 Inlet manifold
Page 25 and 26: 1 Introduction General information
Page 27 and 28: A - -A 6.3 Topping-up the battery e
Page 29 and 30: 7.21 Set the belt tension, then tig
Page 31 and 32: Try to move the pipes and silencers
Page 33 and 34: 18.6 Pull the HT leads off the spar
Page 35 and 36: 5 Before removing the filter, note
Page 37 and 38: 2 To fully check the operation of t
Page 39 and 40: 31.3a Opening the radiator bleed sc
Page 41 and 42: Chapter 12 Body electrical systems
Page 43 and 44: 1 General information and precautio
Page 45 and 46: to release the clip, then withdraw
Page 47 and 48: Body electrical systems 12»7 4.35a
Page 49 and 50: 14 Extract the festoon-type bulb fr
Page 51 and 52: 6.18a Unscrew the mounting bolts ..
Page 53 and 54: 10.2 Prise the speaker grille from
Page 55 and 56: Body electrical systems 12»15 14.4
Page 57 and 58: 15.3c ... and remove the inner meta
Page 59 and 60: 18.6b Wiper mounting bolt located o
Page 61 and 62: 22.3b Disconnect the yellow wiring
Page 63 and 64: Key to symbols — t ; j^g. Item nu
Page 65 and 66: Wire colours W White R Red Y Yellow
Page 67 and 68: Wire colours W White O Orange R Red
Page 69 and 70: Wire colours W White O Orange R Red
Page 71 and 72: Wire colours W R Y Br P Bl Gr G B V
Page 73: Wire colours Key to items w R Y Br
Page 77 and 78: 11 »4 Bodywork and fittings 6 Fron
Page 79 and 80: '\'\»6 Bodywork and fittings the c
Page 81 and 82: 11 »8 Bodywork and fittings 10.11
Page 83 and 84: 11*10 Bodywork and fittings 7 If wo
Page 85 and 86: 11*12 Bodywork and fittings 16.10 R
Page 87 and 88: 11*14 Bodywork and fittings 18.3a U
Page 89 and 90: 11*16 Bodywork and fittings 18.23a
Page 91 and 92: 11*18 Bodywork and fittings 20.15b
Page 95 and 96: 11 »22 Bodywork and fittings 16 Wi
Page 99 and 100: 10*2 Suspension and steering system
Page 105 and 106: 1f>8 Suspension and steering system
Page 107 and 108: 10*10 Suspension and steering syste
Page 109 and 110: 10«12 Suspension and steering syst
Page 111 and 112: 10*14 Suspension and steering syste
Page 113 and 114: 9*2 Braking system Anti-lock brakin
Page 115 and 116: 9*4 Braking system 4.2 Disconnectin
Page 117 and 118: 9*6 Braking system 5 Unhook the sel
Page 119 and 120: 9*8 Braking system 5.27 Removing th
Page 121 and 122: 9*10 Braking system 8.4 Disconnecti
Page 123 and 124: 9»12 Braking system K-0 10.13 Cros
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9»14 Braking system 25 Working ins
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9*16 Braking system 2 Unbolt the ex
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8*2 Driveshafts 1 General informati
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8*4 Driveshafts 3.23a Extract the c
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8*6 Driveshafts 4.7 Unbolt the inte
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Chapter 7 Part B: Automatic transmi
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2.19a Two of the six bolts securing
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S§^)/ H31468 6.11 Selector lever p
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Chapter 7 Part A: Manual transmissi
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2 Gearchange lever and linkage remo
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hoist to the left-hand end of the i
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) Apply a smear of high-melting-poi
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6*2 Clutch 1 General information Ve
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6«4 Clutch 6.4 Clutch slave cylind
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Chapter 5 Part B: Ignition system C
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2.8 Diagnostic connector plug locat
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4.4 Pull the HT leads off the spark
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6.1 Crankshaft sensor on 1.6 litre
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Chapter 5 Part A: Starting and char
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Starting and charging systems 5A»3
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5.13a Unscrew the bolts securing th
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6 Unscrew and remove the starter mo
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402 Exhaust and emission control sy
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404 Exhaust and emission control sy
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Chapter 4 Part B: Fuel system - mul
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2.5 Disconnecting the breather hose
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4.3c Disconnecting the throttle pot
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Refitting 20 Refit the injectors an
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Unplug the wiring connectors and un
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5.10a Once the base of the unit has
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8.8b ... and remove this wiring har
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Chapter 4 Part A: Fuel system - sin
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6 Slacken and withdraw the securing
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5.1 Disconnect the breather hose fr
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Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversa
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Fuel system - single-point injectio
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Disconnect the inlet manifold coola
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Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and vent
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eveal a faulty hose, it must be ren
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Refitting 14 Ensure that the cylind
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36 Unbolt and remove the timing bel
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Cooling, heating and ventilation sy
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Chapter 2 Part E: Engine removal an
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Crankshaft Main bearing journal dia
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2.20a Removing the cover from the b
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2.33 Removing the left-hand wheelar
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Automatic transmission models 64 Re
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4.20 Look for cracking between the
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4.45a Locate the inner . 4.45b ...
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5.24a Using a small screwdriver ...
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5.47 Tightening the big-end bearing
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8.14 Three bore measurement points
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11.19 Lubricate the crankcase main
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2D»2 1.8 litre engine in-car repai
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Location of TDC on No 1 cylinder 1
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4.13a Removing No 3 exhaust camshaf
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camshaft oil seals for signs of lea
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14 If necessary, remove and clean t
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37 Again working in sequence, tight
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^^^^^ 13.8 Using an impact screwdri
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202 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
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2O10 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
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2012 1.6 litre enginein-car repair
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2O20 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
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Chapter 2 Part B: 1.4 litre engine
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6 Once pressure is felt, continue t
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4.17 FIAT special tool used to lock
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Section 4. It is essential that an
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paragraph 17), then remove the heat
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to the downpipe. The safest option
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13.8 Using an impact screwdriver to
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2A«2 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A«4 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»6 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»8 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»10 1.2 litre engine in-car repa
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REF-2 Conversion factors Length (di
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REF.4 Vehicle identification number
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REF.6 Disconnecting the battery Sev
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REF.8 Tools and working facilities
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REF.10 MOT test checks This is a gu
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REF«12 MOT test checks Exhaust sys
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REF.14 Fault finding Engine • Eng
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REF.16 Fault finding Engine (contin
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REF.18 Fault finding Clutch Note: T
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REF.20 Fault finding Braking system
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REF.22 Fault finding Electrical sys
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REF.24 Glossary of technical terms
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REF
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REF
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Bravo & Brava • 1995 To 2000

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