Bravo & Brava • 1995 To 2000

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position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to the metal underneath. Bodywork repairs - fiiling and respraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dents, scratches, rust holes and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking, those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair, which can be used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board - measure the hardener carefully (follow the maker's instructions on the pack), otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly. Alternatively, a 'no-mix' filler can be used straight from the tube without mixing, but daylight is required to cure it. Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the correct contour and to level the surface. As soon as a contour that approximates to the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste - if you carry on too long, the paste will become sticky and begin to 'pick-up' on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute intervals, until the level of the filler is just proud of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed using a metal plane or file. From then on, progressively-finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40-grade production paper, and finishing with a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block - otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-anddry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage. At this stage, the 'dent' should be surrsunded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely 'feathered' edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone. Spray the whole area with a light coat of primer - this will show up any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more smooth the surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners, to form a really thin paste which is ideal for filling small holes. Repeat this spray-andrepair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water, and allow to dry fully. The repair area is now ready for final spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free atmosphere. This condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help to settle the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape, and several thicknesses of newspaper, for the masking operations. Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old tin, or similar) until the technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint, rather than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-anddry paper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying at the top of the repair area, and then, using a side-to-side motion, work downwards until the whole repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply wax polish. Plastic components With the use of more and more plastic body components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major body panels), rectification of more serious damage to such items has become a matter of either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this field, or renewing complete components. Repair of such damage by the Bodywork and fittings 11 »3 DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the cost of the equipment and materials required for effecting such repairs. The basic technique involves making a groove along the line of the crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged part is then welded back together, using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then removed, and the area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as body components can be made of a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene). Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions, minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair material, Once mixed in equal proportions, this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding and painting. If the owner is renewing a complete component himself, or if he has repaired it with epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing which is compatible with the type of plastic used. At one time, the use of a universal paint was not possible, owing to the complex range of plastics encountered in body component applications. Standard paints, generally speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but specialist paints, to match any plastic or rubber finish, can be obtained from dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and coloured top coat. Full instructions are normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the method of use is to first apply the pre-primer to the component concerned, and allow it to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied, and left to dry for about an hour before finally applying the special-coloured top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured component, where the paint will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property that standard paint does not normally posses. 5 Major body damage -
11 »4 Bodywork and fittings 6 Front bumper - ^ removal and refitting Removal 1 <strong>To</strong> improve access, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). If necessary, remove both front roadwheels. 2 Where applicable, remove the front foglights with reference to Chapter 12, Section 6. 3 Unscrew the bumper upper mounting bolts located on the upper panel in front of the radiator (see illustration). 4 Undo the screws and extract the fixing 7.2a Undo the screws ... studs, then remove the front sections of the wheel arch liners for access to the front bumper mounting bolts (see illustrations). Ideally, a forked tool should be used to remove the studs. 5 Unscrew the bumper side mounting bolts (see illustration). 6 Unscrew the lower mounting bolts located along the bottom edge of the bumper (see illustration). 7 With the help of an assistant, withdraw the bumper from the front of the car (see illustration). Where applicable, disconnect the washer tubing and remove the headlight washer jets as described in Chapter 12, Section 17. Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 7.2b ... and nuts ... 7 Rear bumper - |^ removal and refitting Removal 1 <strong>To</strong> improve access, chock the front roadwheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). If necessary, remove both rear roadwheels. 2 Undo the screws and nuts and remove the wheel arch liners from each side (see illustrations). 3 Working under the rear wheel arches, unscrew the bolts securing the rear bumper to the rear wings (see illustration). 4 Raise the tailgate, then undo the screws 7.2c ... and remove the wheel arch liners from each side
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BRAVO & BRAVA • 1995 to 2000 (N t
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Contents LIVING WITH YOUR FIAT BRAV
Page 5 and 6:
o.4 Introduction The 3-door FIAT Br
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o.6 Roadside repairs The following
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o.8 Roadside repairs Wheel changing
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o«io Weekly checks Introduction Th
Page 13 and 14:
o-i2 Weekly checks Engine oil level
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o.i4 Weekly checks Tyre condition a
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o.i6 Weekly checks Washer fluid lev
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Chapter 1 Routine maintenance & ser
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Torque wrench settings (continued)
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1 Washer reservoir 2 Inlet manifold
Page 25 and 26: 1 Introduction General information
Page 27 and 28: A - -A 6.3 Topping-up the battery e
Page 29 and 30: 7.21 Set the belt tension, then tig
Page 31 and 32: Try to move the pipes and silencers
Page 33 and 34: 18.6 Pull the HT leads off the spar
Page 35 and 36: 5 Before removing the filter, note
Page 37 and 38: 2 To fully check the operation of t
Page 39 and 40: 31.3a Opening the radiator bleed sc
Page 41 and 42: Chapter 12 Body electrical systems
Page 43 and 44: 1 General information and precautio
Page 45 and 46: to release the clip, then withdraw
Page 47 and 48: Body electrical systems 12»7 4.35a
Page 49 and 50: 14 Extract the festoon-type bulb fr
Page 51 and 52: 6.18a Unscrew the mounting bolts ..
Page 53 and 54: 10.2 Prise the speaker grille from
Page 55 and 56: Body electrical systems 12»15 14.4
Page 57 and 58: 15.3c ... and remove the inner meta
Page 59 and 60: 18.6b Wiper mounting bolt located o
Page 61 and 62: 22.3b Disconnect the yellow wiring
Page 63 and 64: Key to symbols — t ; j^g. Item nu
Page 65 and 66: Wire colours W White R Red Y Yellow
Page 67 and 68: Wire colours W White O Orange R Red
Page 69 and 70: Wire colours W White O Orange R Red
Page 71 and 72: Wire colours W R Y Br P Bl Gr G B V
Page 73 and 74: Wire colours Key to items w R Y Br
Page 75: 11 »2 Bodywork and fittings which
Page 79 and 80: '\'\»6 Bodywork and fittings the c
Page 81 and 82: 11 »8 Bodywork and fittings 10.11
Page 83 and 84: 11*10 Bodywork and fittings 7 If wo
Page 85 and 86: 11*12 Bodywork and fittings 16.10 R
Page 87 and 88: 11*14 Bodywork and fittings 18.3a U
Page 89 and 90: 11*16 Bodywork and fittings 18.23a
Page 91 and 92: 11*18 Bodywork and fittings 20.15b
Page 95 and 96: 11 »22 Bodywork and fittings 16 Wi
Page 99 and 100: 10*2 Suspension and steering system
Page 105 and 106: 1f>8 Suspension and steering system
Page 107 and 108: 10*10 Suspension and steering syste
Page 109 and 110: 10«12 Suspension and steering syst
Page 111 and 112: 10*14 Suspension and steering syste
Page 113 and 114: 9*2 Braking system Anti-lock brakin
Page 115 and 116: 9*4 Braking system 4.2 Disconnectin
Page 117 and 118: 9*6 Braking system 5 Unhook the sel
Page 119 and 120: 9*8 Braking system 5.27 Removing th
Page 121 and 122: 9*10 Braking system 8.4 Disconnecti
Page 123 and 124: 9»12 Braking system K-0 10.13 Cros
Page 125 and 126: 9»14 Braking system 25 Working ins
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9*16 Braking system 2 Unbolt the ex
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8*2 Driveshafts 1 General informati
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8*4 Driveshafts 3.23a Extract the c
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8*6 Driveshafts 4.7 Unbolt the inte
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Chapter 7 Part B: Automatic transmi
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2.19a Two of the six bolts securing
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S§^)/ H31468 6.11 Selector lever p
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Chapter 7 Part A: Manual transmissi
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2 Gearchange lever and linkage remo
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hoist to the left-hand end of the i
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) Apply a smear of high-melting-poi
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6*2 Clutch 1 General information Ve
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6«4 Clutch 6.4 Clutch slave cylind
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Chapter 5 Part B: Ignition system C
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2.8 Diagnostic connector plug locat
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4.4 Pull the HT leads off the spark
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6.1 Crankshaft sensor on 1.6 litre
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Chapter 5 Part A: Starting and char
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Starting and charging systems 5A»3
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5.13a Unscrew the bolts securing th
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6 Unscrew and remove the starter mo
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402 Exhaust and emission control sy
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404 Exhaust and emission control sy
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Chapter 4 Part B: Fuel system - mul
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2.5 Disconnecting the breather hose
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4.3c Disconnecting the throttle pot
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Refitting 20 Refit the injectors an
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Unplug the wiring connectors and un
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5.10a Once the base of the unit has
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8.8b ... and remove this wiring har
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Chapter 4 Part A: Fuel system - sin
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6 Slacken and withdraw the securing
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5.1 Disconnect the breather hose fr
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Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversa
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Fuel system - single-point injectio
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Disconnect the inlet manifold coola
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Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and vent
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eveal a faulty hose, it must be ren
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Refitting 14 Ensure that the cylind
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36 Unbolt and remove the timing bel
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Cooling, heating and ventilation sy
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Chapter 2 Part E: Engine removal an
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Crankshaft Main bearing journal dia
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2.20a Removing the cover from the b
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2.33 Removing the left-hand wheelar
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Automatic transmission models 64 Re
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4.20 Look for cracking between the
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4.45a Locate the inner . 4.45b ...
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5.24a Using a small screwdriver ...
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5.47 Tightening the big-end bearing
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8.14 Three bore measurement points
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11.19 Lubricate the crankcase main
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2D»2 1.8 litre engine in-car repai
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Location of TDC on No 1 cylinder 1
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4.13a Removing No 3 exhaust camshaf
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camshaft oil seals for signs of lea
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14 If necessary, remove and clean t
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37 Again working in sequence, tight
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^^^^^ 13.8 Using an impact screwdri
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202 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
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2O10 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
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2012 1.6 litre enginein-car repair
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2O20 1.6 litre engine in-car repair
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Chapter 2 Part B: 1.4 litre engine
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6 Once pressure is felt, continue t
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4.17 FIAT special tool used to lock
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Section 4. It is essential that an
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paragraph 17), then remove the heat
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to the downpipe. The safest option
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13.8 Using an impact screwdriver to
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2A«2 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A«4 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»6 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»8 1.2 litre engine in-car repai
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2A»10 1.2 litre engine in-car repa
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REF-2 Conversion factors Length (di
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REF.4 Vehicle identification number
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REF.6 Disconnecting the battery Sev
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REF.8 Tools and working facilities
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REF.10 MOT test checks This is a gu
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REF«12 MOT test checks Exhaust sys
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REF.14 Fault finding Engine • Eng
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REF.16 Fault finding Engine (contin
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REF.18 Fault finding Clutch Note: T
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REF.20 Fault finding Braking system
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REF.22 Fault finding Electrical sys
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REF.24 Glossary of technical terms
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REF
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REF
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Bravo & Brava • 1995 To 2000

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