09.02.2018 Views

Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

eBook 3000 pages! author: Patrick J. Kelly "This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion. Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. " THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO. ​

eBook 3000 pages!
author: Patrick J. Kelly

"This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion.

Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. "

THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO.

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If there are not wires already attached, then you need <strong>to</strong> solder a wire <strong>to</strong> each of these two terminals. If<br />

you do not know how <strong>to</strong> solder, and don’t have a friend who can, then you can learn quite easily. On the<br />

web there are several videos showing how <strong>to</strong> do it. The connecting wire used should not be solid core but<br />

should have several tiny strands of wire inside the insulation. The wire should be able <strong>to</strong> carry at least 1-<br />

amp and ideally two or three amps. The thicker the wire, the better electrically but the more difficult it is <strong>to</strong><br />

solder. The convention is <strong>to</strong> have a red wire connected <strong>to</strong> the Plus and a black wire connected <strong>to</strong> the<br />

Minus of the panel, but so long as you know which wire is which, you can use any colour of wire that is<br />

convenient. Even if you forget which is which, a voltmeter will tell you which is the Plus when light shines<br />

on the panel. These wires need <strong>to</strong> be about 600 mm. (2 feet) long.<br />

3. Pass the two wires through the hole drilled in the solar panel backing sheet and with the hole positioned at<br />

the bot<strong>to</strong>m left. Attach the sheet securely <strong>to</strong> the back of the solar panel using a good quality adhesive. I<br />

prefer <strong>to</strong> use Impact Evostick or epoxy resin for this, but each construc<strong>to</strong>r will have his own preferred<br />

adhesive.<br />

You don’t need the plastic cover which can slide over the terminals and it can be discarded. It is far more<br />

important <strong>to</strong> make good electrical connections <strong>to</strong> the terminals rather than bothering about keeping under<br />

the plastic cover which usually has very, very little clearance and which can get in the way of the backing<br />

sheet. The result should look like this:<br />

4. We now need <strong>to</strong> construct the housing for the batteries and other components. For convenience of<br />

description, I am going <strong>to</strong> assume that your sheet material is 6 mm thick. In America, that would be a<br />

thickness of one quarter of an inch. Cut a strip of the sheet material “L” long (‘L’ being the length of your<br />

particular solar panel). The width of the strip should be width of the battery box (typically 79 mm) plus one<br />

thickness of the material, which, with 6 mm thick material is likely <strong>to</strong> be 85 mm.<br />

5. To make the ends of the box, cut two small strips with a length of that 85 mm (or whatever) and a width of<br />

7 mm greater than the depth of your battery boxes, which are normally 30 mm deep, making the strip<br />

typically, 85 mm x 37 mm.<br />

6. Epoxy these three strips <strong>to</strong> the bot<strong>to</strong>m of the panel backing sheet <strong>to</strong> form an 85 mm wide, shallow channel<br />

like this:<br />

14 - 95

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