Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

A Suggestion
This is an arrangement of readily available, cheap parts for operating a useful light. Probably the most efficient
circuit for this task is the ‘Joule Thief’ circuit and the light bulb usually chosen for this circuit is the compact
fluorescent lightbulb (“CFL”) which is widely available around the world and although there are many variations,
looks something like this:
The arrow is pointing to a join in the construction where the bulb section joins the lower section which houses
circuitry and the mains connector which can be one of many different types. However, that type of bulb has mains
circuitry built into it which means that in order to get the higher efficiency which we would like, each bulb needs to
be physically modified which is far from ideal. The circuitry inside a bulb of this type, converts the alternating
current of the mains into Direct Current and then uses that direct current to supply an oscillator circuit which
generates high-frequency pulses which power the bulb. Unfortunately, that circuitry gets in the way of low-power
operation and so needs to be removed. People who have done this, say that the bottom can be popped off just
by inserting a screwdriver into the crack and twisting the screwdriver to force the two pieces apart. If you try that,
then let me wish you luck as it has never worked for me, even when applying enough force to permanently
damage the material on both sides of the crack. Instead, I do it by cutting the plastic base 8 mm below the arrow
line resulting in this:
The 8 mm clearance is because the glass tubes project down below the join and we need the remaining section of
the plastic housing to support the bulb when we mount it on our circuit box. The cut should be made when
holding the base section as the glass tubes are very fragile and easily damaged. If available, a Dremel or similar
tool which has a small cutting disc very well suited to making this cut. The cut should be just deep enough to go
through the plastic wall but not further than that. There is a tiny circuit board contained in the lower part,
generally, with some very nice components which can be used for other circuits. The cut-down light bulb can be
mounted on the circuit box using a strong adhesive, or a hole can be drilled very carefully in the centre, between
the tubes (holding the base and not the tubes when doing this) and the base can then be bolted to the component
box.
The glass tubes are U-shaped and there are two inter-tube horizontal connecting tubes in order to make all of the
U-tubes function as one long zig-zag discharge path and get all of the tubes lit up at the same time. The two
tubes which do not have this horizontal interconnecting tube, have two wires coming out of the bottom of them,
and used to connect the circuit to the tubes. These four wires need to be cut, leaving them as long as possible,
then each pair has the insulating enamel scraped off them and then soldered to a length of wire which will be
used to connect to the new circuit, or alternatively, direct to the board if very small ‘fiddly’ work is no problem.
This adaption makes this low-cost method unsuitable for applications where an off-the-shelf bulb is needed so
that replacements can be made without the need for any technically skilled person to be available. What we need
therefore, is a bulb which does not have the mains circuitry (called “ballast”) built into it, and the earlier ‘PLD’
bulbs are in that category. Unfortunately, they are more expensive and not so widely available. They look like
this:
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