09.02.2018 Views

Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

eBook 3000 pages! author: Patrick J. Kelly "This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion. Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. " THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO. ​

eBook 3000 pages!
author: Patrick J. Kelly

"This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion.

Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. "

THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO.

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sticking out of one side of the hub plate and 240 mm sticking out of the other side. We will cut off the excess <strong>to</strong><br />

leave 50 mm sticking out of both sides. It is surprisingly difficult <strong>to</strong> cut a circular bar or pipe off at right angles. I<br />

suggest that you remove the magnets and mark the 50 mm position and the wrap a sheet of rectangular paper<br />

such as an A4 size sheet of printer paper, tightly around the pipe. Make absolutely sure that the paper is tight and<br />

aligns exactly when wrapped around the pipe for the full length of the long side of the paper. Mark carefully<br />

around the end of the paper and that gives you a clean circular line around the pipe at exactly right angles <strong>to</strong> the<br />

pipe.. Remove the paper and do NOT attempt <strong>to</strong> cut through the pipe from one side. Instead, make a series of<br />

short cuts exactly on the line. Make one cut of perhaps 20 mm, then s<strong>to</strong>p, move on 20 mm and make another 20<br />

mm cut. When you get back <strong>to</strong> your starting point, continue the process <strong>to</strong> join up your cuts and remove the<br />

excess section of the pipe. If necessary, smooth the end of the cut pipe very slightly with your angle grinder. Do<br />

not over do that smoothing and remember <strong>to</strong> use goggles for both cutting and smoothing.<br />

Check your work <strong>to</strong> make sure that it is square and accurate, as the spokes will amplify any inaccuracies. When<br />

the welds have cooled, remove the magnets, turn the construction upside down, supporting it however you wish –<br />

a cheap workmate like this:<br />

makes a good support for this work and it allows the pipe <strong>to</strong> be gripped securely while the hub plate is resting<br />

horizontally on the bench. The second half of the axle shaft is then positioned very carefully and accurately over<br />

the centre of the hub plate, secured with the magnets and tack welded in place.<br />

Even though the flywheel will only be rotating once per second, we now reach the most critical part of its<br />

construction, namely, checking that the work so far is accurate enough. For this we use two temporary pieces of<br />

notched timber clamped in the bench <strong>to</strong> support the shaft horizontally so that it can be spun. Spin the shaft and<br />

watch the hub plate very carefully. The plate should spin with no sideways movement at all. This is essential<br />

because the wheel spokes will amplify any error many times. If the result is good, then award yourself a pat on<br />

the back. If there is some sideways movement, then scrap the work and start again with another hub plate and<br />

piece of pipe.<br />

If the work is accurate, then grip the pipe in the workmate and cut off the projecting pieces of the hub plate <strong>to</strong> form<br />

a clean octagon:<br />

With two spokes welded <strong>to</strong> the central hub the basic construction will look like this:<br />

20 - 12

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